Ferguson TO-20 Lift problems

[Youngman]

Hello everyone, brand new to TBN and I come to you for the wealth of knowledge you all have.

Now down to the problem I have. I purchased a 1951 Ferguson TO-20 last year so that I could have a tractor to plow my garden and do a little work around the yard. It has outperformed my expectations until the other day when I decided to finally purchase a 5' bushhog to mow with on some property I have. When I took it out for a test run in my yard with only grass that was 6 inches high, the tractor was able to cut it only decently. Then when I took it through knee high weeds and grass, it caused my pto to slow slightly and my lift completely fell and buried the blades into the ground which really bogged the tractor down. So then I start peaking around and looking through the inspection plates and notice I have a leaking hydraulic cylinder.

So I open up the cover under the seat and pull out the hydraulic cylinder and finally get the piston out of the hydraulic cylinder(actually it came out fairly easly). Also the bottom of the compartment is full of deposits and gunk. Here are my questions:

1. Does anyone know where I can find the rings for the piston?
2. Is there a need to rebuild the hydraulic pump?
3. If my hydraulic pump needs rebuilding, does anyone know how to rebuild the pump?
4. Also How do I pull the pto shaft out of the back of the tractor?

THanks and I hope to hear from some of you soon.

 

[Soundguy]

it's at this point you should own a service manual... even the thinner I&T one at tractor supply is fine for this type of repair.

that fergy tx20 lift system is virtually IDENTICAL to a forn 9n / 2n lift .

hope you didn't break the control valve takingthe cover off.

parts? you can get piston, rings, gaskets, and a new 2.5" cyl if needed from here:

Discount Tractor Parts and Manuals for Older and Antique Tractors System&r=mcats

don't use any rtv.. use real gaskets and whatnot provided.

pto shaft pulls out the back after draining the sump and removing 4 bolts on the rear bearing retainer. it has a replaceable bearing, seal and wear ring if needed.. uses a gasket between carrier and housing.

pto shaft has to come out for pump to come out. ( i wouldn't have pulled anything till i knew all the problems... it's IMPOSSIBLE to troubleshoot AFTER you pulled the top cover.

at this point I'd rering the piston if in good condition.. hone the cyl if it has any scratches.. brake hone is fine. if bad scratches.. replace the cyl. get any gaskets and what not that you need when you order parts. they are very specific.. don't attempt to save 25 cents and make your own.

full top cover R&R she take only about 3 hrs..and you've already got it off.. so the rest is gravy at this point.

I wouldn';t mess with the pump unless you know it had a problem. it's only a 2.85gpm pump at max rpm,, so any substantial leak out the lift cyl killed your flow, pressure etc. a to20 should tote a 5' hog fine. if the stuff was thick.. you use low gear and or take smaller bites if needed. with a leaky piston.. when you hit tough stuff.. engine and pto rpm dropped.. when pto rpm dropped.. pump output did.. and then you couldn't make enoigh flow to overcome the leak.. thus mower dropped. no mystery there.

i would clean the sump out while you hav ethe cover off.

put a pan under the sump dran under the pump.. dump in a gallon of diesel, use a scraper and get it all loose.. then draint he sump into the pan. use yer garden hose and some simple green to washt he rear sump out.. then dump in a lil more diesel, some atf and some 90% rubbing alcohol.. slosh around and drain.. that'l get the water out and any loose sediment that stayed.

remember the trans is the same sump.. so is the diffy.. though seperated by webbing..

soundguy

 

[Youngman]

On the ball about getting a service manual, will be here in about a week I suppose.

Don't think I broke the control valve, I disconnected it first before pulling the top cover off.

I also have gaskets on their way, and rings for the piston is all I am looking for right at the moment. It seems that ytmag doesn't display them online so I tried calling once and could'nt get through so I will try later.

I guess once it is all back together will I try and troubleshoot if there is a problem with the pump. The only thing that I can think that might be related to a hydraulic pump problem is: When the tractor has a heavy implement on the back like a 5 foot disc and has been raised for a few minutes as in transporting to the neighbors down the road to disc his garden, it will tend to get stuck at the top when I try to lower the implement. A few good dangerous rocking up and down allows it to finally drop all the way. I wonder if this has to do with the valves in the pump or the fact that there is about an inch of dirt and deposits in the only oil this tractor has ever had straight from the factory.

But other than that little tidbit, the lift has always worked fine for me, but up until now I have only used non pto implements.

One more question, if the hydraulic compartment is this dirty, should I check the Transmission and differential and clean them as well or should I leave well alone?

Thanks for your help on this one.

 

[Soundguy]

the 1" of dirt = grit. grit FREQUENTLT sticks the control valve. thus making the valve not move with the handle.. thus sticking her.

to fully clean the sump, you need to pull the pto shaft.. take it out.. drop the pump and then wash the rear and hyds area out. a garden hose sprayer or pressure washer would be ok. you can do the same with the trans and a pressure washer... then add in 4 gallons of diesel, 2 quarts atf, and 4 pints 90% rubbing alcohol after putting pump and pto shaft back in with new haskets.. run around the farm a trip to slosh the mix around. this will grab water in there and let it drain in soloution.. plus grabs any junk you missed that will 'whoosh' out te trans and hyds drain.

may need a scraper in the rear section where the pto shaft comes out to get it all out.

ytmag lists the ring part number..

only other thing you might do if you go that far is change the relief valve.. just because... but if it's fine and holding.. it does not have to be changed.