Ferguson TO 30 cuts off when hot

[Kenwilli]

I have a Ferguson TO 30 that will start and run fine until it reaches operating temp, then it cuts off. HELP... any ideas?
It has a 12v alt and 12v lights, starter, etc.
Thought it was electrical, amp gauge reading real high before it cuts off. Have replaced alternator, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, points, condensor, ballist resistor. New fuel filter, oil change, cleaned and new oil in air filter. Still cutting off.
Again, HELP :confused2:
Thanks, Kenny

 

[Willl]

Is the coil really hot when this happens ?

Can you restart immediately or have to wait to cool down ?

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a Ferguson TO 30 that will start and run fine until it reaches operating temp, then it cuts off. HELP... any ideas?
It has a 12v alt and 12v lights, starter, etc.
Thought it was electrical, amp gauge reading real high before it cuts off. Have replaced alternator, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, points, condensor, ballist resistor. New fuel filter, oil change, cleaned and new oil in air filter. Still cutting off.
Again, HELP :confused2:
Thanks, Kenny

If you have an ohm meter check the resistance on the coil primary. If it's ~1.6 ohms then you have the typical coil used on that tractor with a 6v system and it should have a ballast resistor on it when it's used in a 12v electrical system.
If it has ~3.2 ohms of resistance, then you don't need a ballast resistor. The ballast resistors have a low resistance when cold to allow max current to the coil primary at cold start and when they heat up, the resistance increases to reduce the coil current. (It called a positive temperature coeficient resistor.)
I think you may have a 3.2 ohm coil with a ballast resistor and when the resisitor heats up it's reducing the coil current and your spark is very weak.
Start it up again and let it quit. Immediately (I mean right now!) check for spark. If you have none or it's very weak , then put a jumper across the ballast resistor and check the spark. The alternative is to just put a jumper around the ballast resistor and see if that cures the problem.

 

[Kenwilli]

Will, I haven't thought to feel the coil to see if it's hot. But, I can't restart until it cools back down.

I forgot to mention in my original post but I did replace the coil when I was doing the other work. I'll have to check but I think the new coil is 6v.

Thanks

 

[Kenwilli]

Jerry, I'll check the resistance. With my ohm meter do I check resistance with the meter red lead to the coil primary and the meter black lead to ground? Or, do I put the meter leads on the two posts of the coil?
Thanks for the reply.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Jerry, I'll check the resistance. With my ohm meter do I check resistance with the meter red lead to the coil primary and the meter black lead to ground? Or, do I put the meter leads on the two posts of the coil?
Thanks for the reply.

You want to check the primary coil resistance so you touch the leads to both primary posts on the coil.

 

[toddol1971]

does it get hot? Tstat stuck? fuel line next to block or manifold, exhaust? vapor lock? With the 6v coil, did it just start acting up when you replaced it? I know certain wires, solid core vs suppression core need a certain ohm coil. good luck

 

[Soundguy]

at moment of stall, check spark. if spark is good.. move on to checking fuel.

this assumes it's not something obvious like the engine seizing up and sticking..e tc.

post back

soundguy