Filter Removal Problems

[ulflyer]

I'm ready to do the 50 hr service on the Ck30 HST and before I start draining the hydro oil I wanted to make sure I could get the filters off, having read here about how tight they often are. Bought a 2in wide strap filter from NAPA that uses a 1/2 socket wrench. Tightened it up and started wrenching and could feel the sidewall of the filter buckling. Filter didn't move. Any suggestions? If I continue with the tightening, will it just buckle/twist to a point and then come loose? Or will I risk twisting or tearing the body of the filter with the base still stuck on? Sorta at a loss with this one. :confused2:

And then theres the one that sticks out less than an inch on the floorboard.
The strap won't grab onto to that one. Am thinking of getting one of those filter wrenches that has a chain, sorta like a bicycle chain. Not sure the chain will go under the filter as theres not much room but I think it will. Have any of you used that type? Or what do you suggest?

Hate to spend $80 for dealer to come get it and do the job since I already have all the supplies on hand. Mostly I just don't like to admit I can't do it!

Edited to add: Just tried the strap on the oil filter and couldn't get it to budge either, but at least it didn't buckle. Appreciate the comments coming in and will wait a few more days before attempting removal again. Will see if I can find a big enuf lock pliers and maybe the bicycle chain type for the hydro filter that sticks out on the floor.

 

[JoelD]

I had the same thing start to happen on my boat. Try to grab the filter as low to the base of the filter as you can. At the end of the filter they are easy to corkscrew twist them, they are not very thick and strong out at the end.

I re-grabbed at the base and got the filter off without incident.

Joel

 

[mj007]

A pair of big channel lock pliers gets 'em off every time for me

 

[CowwFace]

Hey UL,

I think I used a homemade version of the same wrench you felt the sidewall buckling on.

My setup is a 1/2" drive deep well socket that I cut two notches in. and then the nylon strap is looped and put in the notches.. then as you ratchet it with extention it winds up around the socket and eventually tightens around the filter.

To make along description short.. my homemade version worked for the hydraulic filter .. and I did grab it as close to the top of the filter as I could get it...

Phill

 

[back2earth]

I ended up drilling two holes on opposite sides of the filter (near the bottom so as not to accidentally hit the threaded inlet) and running a long screw driver through the holes as suggested by someone else on this forum a while back. Then holding both ends of the screw driver I was able to twist the filter free. It wasn't easy and still required a lot of force.
There is no way that Kioti followed the torque specs when they installed that filter!

 

[LaVoie Equipment]

uflyer:

They are definitely tight from time to time - the cause is the O'ring being stuck to the filter base. As in previous posts, Get the strap up as close to the base/mount as possible - use a 6" or 8" extension. Most people grab at the end of the filter and this will bend/crimp the filter.

When you go to reinstall make sure you use some sort of lubricant preferrably the hydraulic oil to lube the o-ring. This will prevent sticking in the future. And don't crank down as tight as possible. Hand tight then 1/2 turn.

Tony

 

[mx5guy]

I did my 50 change, and all 3 of my filters where welded on to some degree. As i had checked this forum out in regards to 50 hours and filters, I was prepared, had two types of filter wrenches, but ultimately used welders welding vice-grips the ones that look like a bicycle chain but is not, worked well on all filters .

The only incident was when emptying oil from main transmission, a rubber O-ring gasket had fallen info draining container, and i had not noticed, did find it funny the outer two drains did have O-ring type gaskets and larger main did not. So i finish draining, clean magnet had a lot of fine gray metallic dust, tighten everything refill check for leaks and all looked great, no apparent leaks. Ran tractor did some work and all was good, till I started to pour old hydraulic oil into empty 5 gallon pail, a large black O-ring:confused2: showed up in the funnel, O Sh** rechecked for leaks still nothing apparent, so I did some work, and decided to check in the AM, and singular drip hanging from plug and maybe 1 or two on piece of cardboard, well S**t, so I get my container and get under tractor, psych myself up to remove the larges plug fastest draining plug, put O-ring back on and put plug back in as fast as humanly possible, and hope magnet does not interfere with fast reinstall like some have had trouble with, well I had it out, O-ring back on and back in in less than 8 ounces. Mesured what fell in container.

Now have almost 80 hours since and no issues at all , but much learned about Kioti and oil changes.

 

[Mousefield]

A pair of big channel lock pliers gets 'em off every time for me

That's what I used as well. :thumbsup:

 

[Eagleview]

Bought a 2in wide strap filter from NAPA that uses a 1/2 socket wrench. Tightened it up and started wrenching and could feel the sidewall of the filter buckling. Filter didn't move. Any suggestions?

There is a trick to using the strap type wrench , you don't simply tighten the the strap with the ratchet or it will crush the filter . You place it so that it is roughly at 3 o/clock on the filter (relative to your position)and use the ratchet as a lever by using both hands , the left hand on the head of the ratchet or extension and the right on the handle . Any other position on the filter loses the purchase you will have at 3 o'clock .

 

[ulflyer]

Guys, thank you one and all for the good advice. I'm gonna cut and paste it in my manual for future use. For now, after buying a bicycle chain type wrench for the floorboard filter, which also began to dent , I have given up for this first fluid change, and having the dealer do it. All but the front axle which I can do.