Filters

[tlb]

Just bought a used (2001) 425 yesterday and did not receive a manual. Can anyone provide the following:
1) Engine oil filter part no. (kohler)
2) Hyd. oil filter no.
3) fuel filter no.
4) oil weights (engine, hyd) for central texas
5) grease type for 425, finish mower, tiller??
6) frequency of changing a) hyd oil and filter, engine oil and filter, fuel filter, greasing zircs.
7) gas type (unleaded, super unleaded)
8) where and size to get replacement tires (solid rubber) for finish mower (both went flat shortly after I started mowing)

In addition, any other useful info would be appreciated. I am wanting to hook a small trailer to the back and any inputs would be helpful. I also remember a post about a single arm fork lift useful for popping up stumps. I have been using the fork lift (2 prongs) and it works fine but end up digging 2 holes. I am interested in the grapple bucket and would appreciate any feedback. I have lots of cedar brush (logs and limbs) that need to be moved and though this would be useful. Doing it with the forks works but requires me to get off the tractor to adjust the load. Also, I am having to move much rock (from several inches to several feet in size) around and have been using the light material bucket. It has been difficult to say the least to "get under" these rocks with the LMB, especially when there are lots of rocks in a pile. I have a small bucket with teeth but have not tried it yet.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Sundown

 

[MossRoad]

Welcome to TBN!

Find the make and model #s on your engine and call a local Kohler dealer or just about any small engine shop. They will surely be able to help with the engine questions and will probably have decent prices on eveything. Also, you should pick up an owner's manual and maintenance manual for the engine. I got mine pretty cheap. Less than the cost at the Kohler web site. If the local dealer doesn't have the manuals, the Kohler website will.

As for the hydraulic oil and filter. The filter has to be changed every 50 hours. There is a special hose that is required to bleed the pump after changing the hydraulic filtere. Failure to bleed the pump properly will result in catostrophic failure!!! Make the call to Power Trac and order the hose if you did not get it with your tractor. Also, ask them how much a manual will be. There are also some posts on the procedure here at TBN. Here's a link to the procedure that I follow. DISCLAIMER: While this works for me, you need to talk to the factory and follow their instructions over mine. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif While you have them on the phone, order 2 hydraulic filters and ask them about the hydraulic oil, grease, etc...

I use Mobil1 in my engine.
I still have the factory hydraulic oil. I think it is 10W40.

 

[FOURTEEN]

Have you read PT-425 PROS & cons?? ??

 

[eambrose]

Hey everyone - further to this post - has anybody found a hydraulic filter that fits the PT 425 yet? - I am going to my brother in laws this weekend to do a service his (my old) 425

I know that Northern Hydraulics has one in the catalog that appears identical - was wondering if anyone found out if it fits or is there a cross reference to a NAPA or some other filter -

Is it a suction type filter?

Also - I will see if I have any info around to help the new member - Welcome aboard. PS I am sure Terry at PT can help with a manual

EDM

 

[tlb]

Thanks for the reply. I asked a lot of questions but I had some urgency to them. Since picking up the 425 Saturday morning I have put 10 hrs on it. The previous owner said the tractor was due for filter changes at 250 hrs and I now have 254 hrs and still need to use it tomorrow. I have also not greased it since picking it up.

I have been using the forks to pop out cedar stumps and while it works on most stumps, I am afraid I may be over stressing the tractor. I have had the rear wheels off a foot off the ground many times why trying to pry the stumps out and when they finally give I go bouncing dow along with the tractor.

I also have a lot of already cut brush in the form of cedar logs, limps, and stumps and thought the grapple bucket would be good for this. If anyone can comment I would appreciate it.

The soil in central texas is very rocky and I was wondering if anyone else had similar conditions trying to use the buckets. The 425 came with the light materail bucket and smaller toothed bucket. It has been hard to pick up rocks with the LMB. I have also been using the forks to pop up bigger rocks.

I would like to get a small trailer to load material in rocks, limbs, stumps, logs, dirt) and would appreciate any inputs on what trailers work best on the 425 and the type of hitch arrangement.

The 425 also came with a 60" mower. The tires went flat almost immediately on the rocky, stumpy ground. I remember a post where someone mentioned solid rubber tires. Any help on this would be appreciated.

This 425 has the gas tank (plastic) in front of the engine. Does this make it the newer or older design?

One last question, when the treadle is stationary and in the center postion, the tractor wants to inch forward very slowly. Is this normal or does something need adjusting?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
-tlb

 

[Bob999]

<font color="red"> This 425 has the gas tank (plastic) in front of the engine. Does this make it the newer or older design?

One last question, when the treadle is stationary and in the center postion, the tractor wants to inch forward very slowly. Is this normal or does something need adjusting?
</font>

The plastic gas tank is not used on the newest machines.

The machine should not move when you take both feet off the pedals. The "hydroback" linkage needs to be adjusted to stop the creeping. The procedure is shown in the manual.

I believe that you can determine the model year of your machine from the serial number. I think that the first two digits indicate the year with 2004 production beginning with 17. I would expect that the factory can also give you the production date.

 

[tlb]

Fourteen,
Thanks for the pointer. I read thru all the "pros & cons" and found 2 references to trailer hitches. I am thinking about getting a 1-2 ton trailer from either Country Manufacturing or Nothern Tools. These trailers do not use a "ball" I believe, although I think it is a preferred solution. Maybe I can retrofit the trailer with a 2" ball.
-tlb

 

[MossRoad]

Buy some super lube or other similar spray grease and spray all the ball and eye type joints that you see. There are around 20 of them on the loader arms and steering rams. Don't forget the big joint under the seat and there is one under the center console, too. There are also some smaller ones on the treadle assembly. There is a pictorial of those at my website under the 8hr maintanance section.

Use a grease gun to hit all the grease zerks,, too.

The mower requires high speed grease in the zerks on each spindle. These are located under the deck, so you have to lift it up to get to them. Block the deck up with some 4x4s or something similar. Even with the blocking, do not get under the deck. You should be able to reach the zerks without putting your body under the deck.

If your tractor creaps, it is imperitive that you adjust it. That is very dangerous. Also, set the brake, lower the implement and shut the unit off each and every time you get off. It could save your life.