finished the mounts and paint.

   / finished the mounts and paint.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
yea they are for mounting the tail lights too plus they serve as a protector from mud coming from the tire . i could have just put a flat bar clip but the lights would have just got knocked out by the mudso i went with the 16 gauge plate only the one without the lighte i didn't drill the holes for the lights so you can mount any light in it that is 2and 3/4 "high by 3 and 3/4 "wide . i also put the 1"by1/4"flat bar clip on the inside center with a 3/8 hole in it just incase someone want to put a light in the middle the bracket will be there already and it really ain't in the way so .the lights that i have on my other one in the picture fit flush when they are installed so if i was to backup into something they would crack.the rhino bumper is finished and we are mounting it this weekend so we should have pictures of that one too.
 
   / finished the mounts and paint. #12  
Dang Tommie,

That looks excellent!!!!! Factory!!! Prob much better too. I bought a mig welder and torches last summer, haven't had time to play with it casue we were finishing up our lake house in our metal building...haven't welded in years and it was stick. How did you cut the angles on the pipe to fit so well??? What kind of material is this tubing?? The weight sure seems reasonable. Geez if you can do that you could build all sorts of accessory things. If you get the time you should think about brush guards for tractors. I had a welding shop custom make one for my New Holland TC55 after damaging my $3,800 plastic hood. Everyone that sees it wants to know where i got it. I'll have to post some pics for you.....it's made out of sq tubing with expanded metal with quick attach brackets on the rollover bar, the front loader brackets, and then angles down over the top of the hood to fasten quick attach to the front bumper guard. It's pretty cool and quick to take off.
 
   / finished the mounts and paint.
  • Thread Starter
#13  
all the pipe is schedule 40. it's not no tubing this bumper won't bend if you run into something with it or atleast it's gonna take a realy good hit before it even moves. as for as the cuts they were all made with a chop saw acept for them two really hard ones they was cut with a saws-all and then dremled down to contoure the main pipe. but the saws-all cut it pretty close i drew all the cuts out on the pipe my oldest son did the cutting and my buddy soney .g done the welding he has the rhino we are putting a bumper on his rhino this weekend it looks something like this one but it has two pipes going up in the center and it just has a center light and now side lights becasue the rhino already has tail lights on the bed.plus with the rhino bumper we are backing it out a few inchs becasue when we was lookin at it we put his talegate down and he said man look at the cable that is already stretching from people siting on the tail gate . so now we gonna push the bumper out about 4"and put a rubber top about 1"thick on top all the way across so when you let the tail gate down it will help support by sitting on the rubber bumper piece.
 
   / finished the mounts and paint.
  • Thread Starter
#14  
as for as all kinds of stuff we are gonna see about the front bumpers for the hpx/xuv and one for the rtv. we gonna get there .might not be able to do it with my hands but my brain still knows how and it works. if it's mabe out of metal i can figure out a way to build it. before i got hurt i was building offshore cranes. and for that we had to be within a 1/16 on a 40'boom section and sometimes it was 3/32 tolerances. i have built a complete linkbelt crane cab already that's including making the door and everything that was fun because it was about 16 guage steel and you have to backstep so much on the welding it still warped so you was ending up hammering dents out to smooth it out before it even left the shop. the cab itself where you sit was made out od 1/8 thick steel. brings back memories of back inda day.
 

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