CalG
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2011
- Messages
- 5,572
- Location
- vermont
- Tractor
- Hurlimann 435, Fordson E27n, Bolens HT-23, Kubota B7200, Kubota B2601
Wanted to do it with stock on hand. I hate buying that Chi-com stuff fron TSC etc.
I did end up buying the lift arm pins. They were so cute, I couldn't resist. (Sway bar pins IIRC)
I also purchased the weld-in draw arm outboard ball ends. Drilled holes were just too clunky and hard to deal with. The inboard ends are just 5/8ths holes with a bit of a wallow milled in to allow a bit of angle movement.
The lift links lower ends are tie rod ends from some old datsun . ;-) NOS! Hey, they were not doing anything else ....
The top link has a genuine aircraft surplus ball end on the tractor end, and a 11/16th hole in some 1/2 inch stock on the other ;-)
The rock shaft pivot blocks were machined from solid. A bit smaller than the OEM castings, but plenty stout. No fancy bronze bushings or anything just steel on steel with grease in the hole.
The rock shaft it's self is 1 1/4 solid.
The part geometry was pretty much scaled off the Bolens hitch literature. There are a few good references on the web, but I did get caught using published "Large Frame" dimensions on the HT, There seems to be an additional couple of inches extending out the back on the large frame rails. This resulted in the connector bars between rock shafts being too long. Have you ever tried to shorten a slot?
The link connecting the hydro rock shaft to the lift rock shaft were made up with the full float sliding cuts as OEM. On this little Bolens, I run some sort of front attatchment nearly always. Either the snow blower or the blade. I didn't want to mess with both ends working at once with bad consequences for inattention.
The lock up block works great. there is just a "D" handle bent on the end of the 1/4 dia. actuating rod tucked up under the seat/fender tin work. I didn't want to bring anything out the back as there is already difficulty getting hands and hoses in that area to make up the hydraulic connections when running the trail wheel York rake.
The entire thing is over built in some places, and under built in others, but as mentioned, this was an exercise in using up "junk". Next time I'll do it different. ;-)
(PLUS, the over bult parts are to make up for my crappy welding and poor prep work)
The pieces for the utility hitch were a real garble of parts. Some I don't really like, but I bet it pulls the little utility trailer just fine.
I did end up buying the lift arm pins. They were so cute, I couldn't resist. (Sway bar pins IIRC)
I also purchased the weld-in draw arm outboard ball ends. Drilled holes were just too clunky and hard to deal with. The inboard ends are just 5/8ths holes with a bit of a wallow milled in to allow a bit of angle movement.
The lift links lower ends are tie rod ends from some old datsun . ;-) NOS! Hey, they were not doing anything else ....
The top link has a genuine aircraft surplus ball end on the tractor end, and a 11/16th hole in some 1/2 inch stock on the other ;-)
The rock shaft pivot blocks were machined from solid. A bit smaller than the OEM castings, but plenty stout. No fancy bronze bushings or anything just steel on steel with grease in the hole.
The rock shaft it's self is 1 1/4 solid.
The part geometry was pretty much scaled off the Bolens hitch literature. There are a few good references on the web, but I did get caught using published "Large Frame" dimensions on the HT, There seems to be an additional couple of inches extending out the back on the large frame rails. This resulted in the connector bars between rock shafts being too long. Have you ever tried to shorten a slot?
The link connecting the hydro rock shaft to the lift rock shaft were made up with the full float sliding cuts as OEM. On this little Bolens, I run some sort of front attatchment nearly always. Either the snow blower or the blade. I didn't want to mess with both ends working at once with bad consequences for inattention.
The lock up block works great. there is just a "D" handle bent on the end of the 1/4 dia. actuating rod tucked up under the seat/fender tin work. I didn't want to bring anything out the back as there is already difficulty getting hands and hoses in that area to make up the hydraulic connections when running the trail wheel York rake.
The entire thing is over built in some places, and under built in others, but as mentioned, this was an exercise in using up "junk". Next time I'll do it different. ;-)
(PLUS, the over bult parts are to make up for my crappy welding and poor prep work)
The pieces for the utility hitch were a real garble of parts. Some I don't really like, but I bet it pulls the little utility trailer just fine.
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