first post, newbie questions

ratter · May 22, 2005

Hi everybody,

First off, I want to thank everybody for sharing all of their hard-earned information on this website. It has already answered lots of questions for me, and I've been reading page after page of the Safety discussion.

I recently purchased a 52-acre farm, which came with an old Kubota B1550, with Bush Hog and front loader attached, and a deck mower that is currently not attached.

I will readily admit that I don't know what the heck I'm doing! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I have owners manuals on order from a local dealer, but in the meantime, I was hoping some folks could fill in a few blanks for me...

1. How in the heck do I position the deck mower under the tractor? There just isn't enough clearance, even with the hydraulics raised all the way. Does the tractor have to be jacked up?

2. I don't really have a good flat spot in the barn to park the tractor for removing and attaching implements. If I detach the bush hog on the uneven barn floor am I ever going to be able to get it attached again?

3. Is there any danger in running 4wd all the time? (I'll only be running on grass, dirt, gravel, no paved roads.) Does running in 4wd help prevent rear flips?

4. The hydraulics, including the front loader, all appear to work just fine, but the hoses are in bad shape - cracked and peeling covers, etc. Is this something that should be addressed immediately, or am I ok to run it for a couple of months until I get the thing serviced? Judging by paperwork left behind, the tractor hasn't been serviced in a few years.

Thank you very much!
-Mike

rbcsaver · May 22, 2005

mike,
Welcome to the board. Yes there is alot of info here and many of the questions you have can be found with a search of this forum. I found this link for you that shows how to use the front end loader
(FEL) to raise the tractor for the mid mount mower (MMM).
http://linknot.net/home-garden/Tractor/B7610.htm
The kubota site may be of some help with part numbers, etc. If you don't have a local dealer or one that is knowledgable, etc., the look at www.tractorsmart.com

I would not use the tractor until you replace the fluids (gas, oil, hydraulic) and all new filters.
There is no need to run the tractor in 4 wheel unless soft dirt, sand snow, etc.
regrads,
Steve

Lockport · May 22, 2005

Hi Ratter & Welcome!

I am assuming that you are trying to attach the mmm? Usually you have to turn the front wheels completely one way or the other to slide the mmm underneath. Sometimes they only fit from one side as well. I will ask the obvious, is the mmm a Kubota and is it compatible with the tractor?

I would guess if you can drop the rotary cutter and get it so the pins will slide out without too much resistance, it souldn't drop on you. IE If you have to whack away with a hammer, it's going to drop and you will have a time with it. Try blocking it if need be.

Running in four wheel drive shouldn't hurt anything. On concrete you will wear your tires faster. On manicured turf I might be careful, especially if wet. Rear flips are probably more often caused by hitching things above the axle, instead of below, causing the tractor to "pivot" when met with enough resistance. IE attach a chain to a big tree and the other end to your toplink and drive away and you are going to flip!

I would replace the hoses fairly soon as hydraulic fluid under pressure can penetrate the skin and cause gangrene if not treated immediately. Check for fluid leaks with a piece of white paper and a magnifying glass held on opposite sides of the hoses for signs of escaping fluid.

One of the first things you would probably be best advised to do would be to change the oil, filter, hyraulic fluid and any other filters as well.

Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

DmansPadge · May 22, 2005

Welcome to TBN!

I've leave #1 and #2 to the other guys.

As for #3.. running in 4WD will not hurt anything.. after all, they put it on the tractor for a reason! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif But unless you need it.. I would keep it in 2WD to prolong wear on the other parts. But if you need it... by all means use it! As far as flipping it over backwards - that should be pretty hard to do unless you are towing something quite heavy and not using the drawbar. Always use the drawbar to tow with. By tying off to another point on the tractor that is higher than the rear end you can definately flip one over.

#4 - I would change all oils and filters before you start putting any kind of use on the tractor. If it hasn't been serviced in years... you can bet it needs it! As for the hydraulics lines... if seen them look like that for a LONG time before they gave up. I would just use it and keep in the back of your mind that sooner or later one will give out. And if that happens.. it might be worth it to replace the others that are in similar condition.

Good luck... and don't be afraid to ask any questions you've got! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

radair · May 22, 2005

I can't help much, but I'd take that FEL and make a permanent level spot in the barn for your tractor and its implements. Priorities!

ratter · May 22, 2005

Thank you guys so much for the excellent information. I am constantly feeling a bit overwhelmed with the responsibility of my new land - finding this forum was like striking gold. I've spent about 10 hours just reading the last few days.

I will have the tractor serviced very soon. I checked all the fluids, but did not replace them. Service is a $ issue at this point, since the dust is still settling from buying the house and moving. But, of course in the meantime, things still need to be done with the tractor. Mowing, at least.

The attachment of the mower is still a question mark to me. To clarify, there isn't enough ground clearance under the tractor to allow the mower to be slid underneath it. Lifting the front end with the FEL is something that I can try. I'll grab an old timber and give it a careful go.

I especially liked the idea of flattening the barn floor with the FEL. I'm embarassed to say that it never even occured to me! It is something that I won't do without a LOT of forethought, though. The barn is 125 years old and not in great shape. Treading lightly is key, I think.

Can't wait until the Operating Manual arrives!

rbcsaver · May 23, 2005

( I will have the tractor serviced very soon. I checked all the fluids, but did not replace them. Service is a $ issue at this point, since the dust is still settling from buying the house and moving. But, of course in the meantime, things still need to be done with the tractor. Mowing, at least. )

Been there too, but I would suggest that the $20 or so to do an oil change yourself will be alot cheaper than a motor repair. Also pick up a grease gun and do the zerks too.
regards,
Steve

RickOliver · May 25, 2005

Regarding #2:
I'm a relative newbie myself, and I don't even have a barn in which to attach/detach the 440 lbs rotary cutter for my 2230. Right now I use a combination of 2x4s as levers/wedges and ropes to manhandle the cutter onto the 3 pt. hitch -- but this weekend I'm building a block and tackle rig for attaching both the rotary cutter and the not-quite-so-heavy post hole auger.

btolle · May 25, 2005

( Right now I use a combination of 2x4s as levers/wedges and ropes to manhandle the cutter onto the 3 pt. hitch -- but this weekend I'm building a block and tackle rig for attaching both the rotary cutter and the not-quite-so-heavy post hole auger. )

One of my best purchases was a 6' steel pry bar for about $30 at Lowe's. It has a chisel shape on the bottom end and a 2 1/2" (approx) round end on the top. It weighs about 30# (SWAG).

I can drive the chisel end into the dirt and use it to raise up and push over on my rotary cutter, box blade, or whatever when attaching or removing. BTW, it helps if I put a brick under the rotary cutter so that it rests at approximately the right height for hooking it back up.

Bill Tolle