First time tractor buyer for haying

   / First time tractor buyer for haying #21  
Any tractor no matter what color that has to be backed up or turning the wheels to disengage the front axle has either had tires that are the wrong diameter installed or they need the air adjusted to balance them from front to rear. We get to see this when hours are up into the 10,000 hour plus range from brand switching of the tires do to price or availability. Not the right way to do it but it sure has been done enough!

Art, it sounds like you agreed with most everything I said.

This part though I will try and explain better. As I said this was what one owner told me and from what I have read it makes some sense. The 4wd didn't have to be backed up or turned to turn it on or off. What he said was if you were on hard ground and backed up or on pavement going either direction it could break the drive shaft off going to the front axle. This was on a IH 1466. The reasons were on any 4wd I know of the front tires turn at a higher ground speed than the rears. With a modern 4wd the weakest link is the tires and they flex enough or slip enough to allow this. The reasons explained to me are that the drive shaft spins at a much higher speed than needed till the hubs. At this point the planetary changes this from a high speed low torque to a lower speed higher torque. On the early IH that didn't have this set up the drive shaft wasn't able to transmit the torque. When the tractor backed up the front tires seemed to "bite" in harder and couldn't slip, or on pavement couldn't slip. It may also have been due to the shaft went down from the top of the trans down to the axle. Kind of a funny angle. I also saw a few of the drive shafts in his shop that had been twisted.

As I said that was how it was explained to me. Maybe someone can explain better or maybe I'm incorrect. Seems to make sense since most every 4wd farm tractor, backhoe, loader etc today uses a planetary axle set up.

To your point about tires, I can also see that doing the same thing. I remember reading about a mining operation that saved money on drive train repairs by keeping the tires on the loaders within a certain percentage of size. They had one figure they used to keep between tires on the same axle and another from end to end. If they replaced a tire on the machine, if they didn't have a used tire close in size, they went with 4 new tires to keep them within that spec. It seems like that more than doubled drive train life.
 
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   / First time tractor buyer for haying #22  
'Course that didn't make any more sense to me than the T/A confusion... whatya mean "bad brakes is a first sign that the hydraulic pump is going south"???

AKfish

We just did a 4430's brakes for a fellow who also had us do the second hydraulic pump. (we didn't do the first pump)
For some reason people don't know enough or it's just good job security to leave the brakes bad so you can sell another pump!
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #23  
JasG,

the reason those driveshafts blow is from being out of sinc front to rear with the size. On the rears from one make tire to the other they often might vary from one brand to the other two and three inches in radius!

The elwood front end was termendous although they don't turn like they do today, they actually were from four wheel drive trucks and gave us true four wheel drive when the diff lock was pushed.

On the average tractor in this area for these vinage tractors they might have had ten sets of tires and some times we will see them come in with a tall one on one side and a shorter one on the other! Think about what that does to a differential lock! One of the books we had for specing tractors was vary interesting, same make tires front and rear but just with in the manufacturer would take the lead to a lag of up to three percent and on other makes up to a five percent lead! I like about three for the optimum performance, one manufactuer was building them to seven and they couldn't get 1,000 hours out of the front tires!!!!

It depends on the owner and his care of keeping his equipment right!
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #24  
We just did a 4430's brakes for a fellow who also had us do the second hydraulic pump. (we didn't do the first pump)
For some reason people don't know enough or it's just good job security to leave the brakes bad so you can sell another pump!

So, I gather that by leaving the bad brakes in the tractor and the "debris" that the brakes create is enough to prematurely wear out the hyd pump? Given that the Deere design on the 30's (and 40's..?) series the hyd fluid pickup was not filtered - the only filtration occured after the sump pump and the power steering charge pump sent it to the SCV's and power steering, etc.

Is that the deal? Thanks.

AKfish
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #25  
The IH 1086 is a lot more tractor than the JD 4020 IMHO. People are infatuated with the 4020 which was a good tractor but they tend to bring a premium. Loved the dual pto shafts if you have both 540 and 1000 pto attachments. Changing out pto shafts like on current tractors is a step backwards but cheaper.
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #26  
The IH 1086 is a lot more tractor than the JD 4020 IMHO. People are infatuated with the 4020 which was a good tractor but they tend to bring a premium. Loved the dual pto shafts if you have both 540 and 1000 pto attachments. Changing out pto shafts like on current tractors is a step backwards but cheaper.
Owned several IHs with T/A. Never had much problems with them. It helps to know how to use them and don't used them all the time but when needed. Gave the operator the "downshift" capability for tough conditions without clutching and shifting.
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #27  
I left the ranch just after the IH 66's came out. No experience with the 1086, but I always thought that the 1066 was more tractor than the 4020.

The 966 was more apples vs apples with the 4020 - I figured.

When I went back to visit one spring for calving and farrowing - they had a new, cabbed, 886! Very nice.

It's still in service today. Great hay tractor!

AKfish
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #28  
I left the ranch just after the IH 66's came out. No experience with the 1086, but I always thought that the 1066 was more tractor than the 4020.

The 966 was more apples vs apples with the 4020 - I figured.

When I went back to visit one spring for calving and farrowing - they had a new, cabbed, 886! Very nice.

It's still in service today. Great hay tractor!

AKfish

The numbers for weight and Hp are about, 4020 between 9000-10000 lbs and 90-100 HP, 1066/86 are between 12000-13000 lbs and 120-130 hp. 966 I believe is the same power, but has more weight about 11000 lbs. The 1066/86 would be better to compare to a 4430/4440. Even a 4320 is listed at around 115 hp. All of the Hp listed are PTO, I give a range due to different places list a little different.
 
   / First time tractor buyer for haying #29  
I left the ranch just after the IH 66's came out. No experience with the 1086, but I always thought that the 1066 was more tractor than the 4020.

The 966 was more apples vs apples with the 4020 - I figured.

When I went back to visit one spring for calving and farrowing - they had a new, cabbed, 886! Very nice.

It's still in service today. Great hay tractor!

AKfish

The numbers for weight and Hp are about, 4020 between 9000-10000 lbs and 90-100 HP, 1066/86 are between 12000-13000 lbs and 120-130 hp. 966 I believe is the same power, but has more weight about 11000 lbs. The 1066/86 would be better to compare to a 4430/4440. Even a 4320 is listed at around 115 hp. All of the Hp listed are PTO, I give a range due to different places list a little different.

An 806 is a closer comparison to a 4020 if you consider age as well as weight and hp.

I am not a big 4020 fan but I am even less of an 806 fan. :cool:
 

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