First use of Allied 3pt. snow thrower

[MiserableOldFart]

Finally had to use the snow thrower the other day. We had about 4 inches of icy, crusty, wet slushy mess that I was concerned would freeze. Considered actually taking off the snow thrower and using the back blade, but that would be too much like work. The machine did a good job throwing that mess. I have it set quite a bit (max) off the ground to prevent digging into the dirt road so it doesn't clean as clean as the back blade would, but then it doesn't throw part of the road into the side, either. Under more "normal" winter conditions with frozen ground and a packed "base" on the road, I could lower it some. These were difficult conditions, with no real base except a few patches of glare ice, and parts of the road not frozen.

I do think that on a dirt road, ski-type shoes would perform a lot more smoothly than the round ones it comes with. If I had the equipment and skills, I would try to weld up a pair. I would think it would be pretty easy for someone experienced. The round shoes tend to catch on bumpy places, which is not much of a problem for the ones on my back blade, but much more serious when pushing with the three point, and thus in much more vulnerable position.

Someone (the dealer said it wasn't them) had put two grade 8 bolts in the shear pin slots in the drive shaft, which I had removed, and after considerable thought, replaced with one grade 5 bolt. It didn't break and there where some times when it was throwing a pretty heavy load of this wet stuff, so I think it'll be ok with that. The owners manual calls for a single grade eight but this drive shaft is a little different from the one illustrated there, so I though it would be safer to move down to a five and keep extras on board.

 

[grsthegreat]

just a heads up...stick with the grade5 for shear bolts. My manual also said i could use grade8, and i ended up bending the auger cause the bolt didnt break when it ingested a large rock.

i have flat skid shoes on my new blower, and it digs into the dirt when the road isnt frozen....so i dont know if it would work any better than the shoes you have now. I tend to use by front plow until the road/base freezes o ver, then switch to the blower. But this season the weather has flip flopped so much the frozen base doesnt last. I just got thru 2 days ago making the perfact base for future snows...and today it was 45...the low is supposed to be 37 with 45 again tomorrow. everything has thawed again.

 

[Marveltone]

It's been an odd winter all over. I've finally used my snow thrower these last two weekends in a row. Without the usual snow pack as a base, I've taken the time to find my ideal compromise between close enough to the ground and throwing gravel all over the place. Once I got it dialed in where I liked it, I measured the top link and wrote the measurement on the blower with a Sharpie where the top link attaches, so I'll know exactly where to adjust it next year. I think I'll do this with more of my implements as time goes on.

Joe

 

[duroc]

just a heads up...stick with the grade5 for shear bolts. My manual also said i could use grade8, and i ended up bending the auger cause the bolt didnt break when it ingested a large rock.

My snowblower (64" New Holland) operators manual says to use a grade 8.8 on the driveline and a grade5 on the drive shaft. I tend to agree with you that the bolts should both be grade5. Better to shear a bolt than to do other damage.

i have flat skid shoes on my new blower, and it digs into the dirt when the road isnt frozen....so i dont know if it would work any better than the shoes you have now.

I too have the flat shoes and experience the same problems. This has got me thinking tho...what if I make a set of flat skids that are wider and longer. Kinda like a small snow ski. I wonder if they'd work any better. Something to ponder over the summer months.

 

[BeeferMan]

My snowblower (64" New Holland) operators manual says to use a grade 8.8 on the driveline and a grade5 on the drive shaft. I tend to agree with you that the bolts should both be grade5. Better to shear a bolt than to do other damage.

8.8 is a metric designation and is approximately equivalent to SAE Grade 5...

 

[duroc]

8.8 is a metric designation and is approximately equivalent to SAE Grade 5...

The manual says to use a "Shearbolt hex 5/16" NC x 1 3/4" gr. 5, incl. nut PTD" on the "drive shaft" (PTO end). (Part# BER665547)

And a 8mm x 1.25 x 45mm long gr. 8.8 PTD on the "driveline" (Blower end). (Part# BER0200098)

My dealer gave me a hand full of the metric bolts, but I'm using the SAE 5/16" instead. Lots easier to find in my area.