fixing tractor loader

   / fixing tractor loader #1  

farm boy00

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2014
Messages
1,297
Location
Howard City, MI
Tractor
John Deere M&MT, Case 1030 comfort king, Sears ST16, Craftsmen 6000, homemade articulation mini-loader
First thing. Not a big tractor or even a sub compact.

Just bought this tractor a week ago or so. Have been having problems where the guy welded the tractor loader. It is where the loader drops down. This tractor was a custom from a trencher. Looks to be all good designs, but was only made for moving some soil around or some mulch. Why we broke the loader was because the first morning we had the tractor we used it to dig a septic pipe in wet clay ground.

This is after grinding welds down and pulling it back together.

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Used chains and chain binders to pull it together. Then used a bottle jack to push it back out from getting twisted (kept using it for a week cleaning a barn and digging out a septic pipe)



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Fish plates cut and ready to weld

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Dinner break. Little sister watching mickey mouse and caught my dad watching

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Went out and had him weld it. Didn't get no pictures before adding fish plates

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View attachment 447332



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And grinded out a section where my lift cylinder was hitting

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Test. Front end was lifted about 6-12 inches off the ground

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What you guys think? ? Anything you would have done different? ? Actually tought my dad new thing about fish plates from this forum. He didn't know they were supposed to be like a Dimond.
 

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   / fixing tractor loader #2  
A couple things that can help, especially in high stress areas. Grind back your starts and stops of your welds. If you use 7018, there is a good chance you'll get porosity in the beginning of the weld. Good practice is to grind out about 3/8 of an inch.
Try never to stop on an edge. Try to end your welds in the center of the plate if you can.
The start, and the end of a weld, are generally the weakest parts.
 

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   / fixing tractor loader
  • Thread Starter
#3  
A couple things that can help, especially in high stress areas. Grind back your starts and stops of your welds. If you use 7018, there is a good chance you'll get porosity in the beginning of the weld. Good practice is to grind out about 3/8 of an inch.
Try never to stop on an edge. Try to end your welds in the center of the plate if you can.
The start, and the end of a weld, are generally the weakest parts.

Unfortunately I can't view your picture. The app only loads about %10 if the pictures posted. We welded with the wire feed welder (mig right? ?)
 
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   / fixing tractor loader #4  
Is there a way that you can add a angel brace on a 45 degree angle below repair area both sides? That would really take the stress off of that spot especially when pushing in to a load.
 
   / fixing tractor loader #5  
We welded with the wire feed welder (mig right? ?)
Yes, Mig. Mig is notorious for cold starts! So even more so with Mig you should grind out the start. Now some times you just can't do this. But say you're are back stepping your welds, that is the perfect time to grind out the starts and stops of your welds.;)
 
   / fixing tractor loader #6  
ShieldArc, trying to make sure I understand what you are saying: Grind back first before you weld? Then move from edge to center?
 
   / fixing tractor loader #7  
ShieldArc, trying to make sure I understand what you are saying: Grind back first before you weld? Then move from edge to center?
Correct! See how I feather ground each side of this tack? This helps get a good tie in when I start to weld. And when I run up on the tack when making a weld.


Then see how I stopped the weld in the center. You can't always do this, but it is a good practice to get into.
 

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   / fixing tractor loader
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Ran tyne tractor yesterday for about a hr or so leveling and dug up one popul sapling. Then was digging another and ran out of gas.

Main reason that caused the welds breaking was cause the curl cylinder at full curl still had extra room so that it kept pushing. No cracked welds yet.

As for doing a brace we could and will if there is a problem with it again
 
   / fixing tractor loader
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Yes, Mig. Mig is notorious for cold starts! So even more so with Mig you should grind out the start. Now some times you just can't do this. But say you're are back stepping your welds, that is the perfect time to grind out the starts and stops of your welds.;)

What do you mean by grinding the start and back stepping on the welds? ?

Sorry but ain't %100 sure what you mean
 
   / fixing tractor loader #10  
Back stepping your welds, and skipping around a lot really helps keep down distortion.
 

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