Flail Mower Flail Mower bearing removal help

[Blake13]

I recently purchased a Seppi M. SML 155 used from a golf course. I got it home, took it out, and vibrates unacceptably at operating RPMs. It is missing a couple 'ears' on the drum where the shackles attach so i am going to take the drum out and bring it to a shop to weld up replacements. Im hoping that this will fix the vibration issue. I almost have the drum out but I cant figure out how to pull the main bearings. I have tried lightly prying on the housing while hitting the shaft but its not budging. Here are pictures of each side.

On the non drive side (shorter shaft) there is a snap ring in the picture, that was removed after i took the pic, its not what is holding the bearing in place right now.

There were 2 set screws on each side that I removed.

Any suggestions how to get this off are appreciated.

Thanks,
Blake

 

[leonz]

Please e mail Seppi at sales@seppi.com providing them with the serial number of the flail mower and ask them for a PDF copy of the 155 manual.


Before you cause anymore mayhem; unbolt the opposite side bearing housing making sure that there are no hidden set screws.

There are two bushings there so you need to clean it more completely with some hand cleaner and look for more set screws on the inside of the flail mower housing on both ends of the flail mower rotor.

If you need weldments to replace broken ones you need the correct mounting weldments to replace the missing ones.

Your going to need to replace both flange bearings as well as they have been damaged by the flail mower rotor being unbalanced.

once you clean up the shaft and the bearing housings you will be able to see the ID numbers on the bearing housing to identify them for the correct bearing replacement.

 

[Blake13]

Thanks Leonz!

I emailed Seppi.

It wasnt obvious in my photo, but the drive side bearing housing flange is unbolted, I only had the bolts resting in the holes to suspend the bearing housing so that the drum isn't supported on one end only. Both set screws on each side had already been removed (4 total). They were located 2 on each bearing collar. There is one bushing. It is what spaced the drive pulley and the bearing. I cant see any set screws on it but also cant see how to pull it off.I am not able to locate any more set screws on the inside of the flail mower, the only set screws appear to be the 4 located on the bearing collars. Inside the flail, only the drum is visible along with the interior bearing mounting plates. I also cleaned it up more and can identify the bearing numbers, so i will be ordering those as well. I sourced and will be ordering new weldments as well.

Im still stumped. I dont see where i could even mount a bearing puller, there is basically no clearance behind the bearing housing even when both sides are unbolted and the drum has some play.

 

[leonz]

Hello Blake13,

I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the Flail Mower Nations.

Ah, first things first. Now if at all possible purchase some dry ice or some block ice and pack it around the pulley end of the rotor shaft. if you have the dry ice use some duck tape(quack) and thick towels and gloves and wrap the shaft end with the dry ice. this should buy you some time and the bushings should practically fall off after a day or so.

Did you order the weldments from the St.George company in Canada??

Please let me know what the condition of the rotor stub shafts as it sounds like they damaged it and were not honest about it to you.


Leon

 

[2458n]

What is the dry ice doing? Shrinking the shaft? I do have five flail mowers. Two work pretty well, but the most useful for mowing property in town is a five foot Ford with a bad bearing from Ohio winter weather.

 

[jemclimber]

If what Leonz says doesn't work, (it should) cutting the inner race off with a torch is another option. I recently had to do this to the bearing on the rear roller drum on my flail. I thought I was going to mess up the shaft, but it was pretty easy to cut just the race.

 

[Blake13]

I had the dry ice packed on both shafts all night. Today I was able to get the drive pulley spacer off the shaft but the bearing on the drive side wont budge. On the opposite side I was able to get the bearing pulled by about 1/2". I now think there may be enough room to try with a bearing puller grabbing the bearing housing. The dry ice is back on the shafts currently.

The bearing part number is UC208. It is a 40 mm shaft bearing. I plan to order online because no one local that i called could source it. Lots of options online, any suggestions? Also, I put a caliper on the shaft and it measures 1.578, so the ID of the bearing is 3 or 4 thousandths smaller diameter than the shaft...tight fit.

If I am able to get these dang things off, how will i press the new ones on? They will have to be pressed on with the drum installed into the flail.
I am thinking i can try to make a simple press using a plate of steel with 4 holes drilled to line up with the flange holes and a <40mm hole in the center and press it on by tightening 4 long bolts?

Any more suggestions how to get this off are appreciated.

Thanks,
Blake

 

[Blake13]

Jemclimber- I am thinking the blade drum shaft is hardened steel and getting it too hot from torching the collar may lose the shafts temper?

 

[Blake13]

Hello Blake13,
Did you order the weldments from the St.George company in Canada??

Please let me know what the condition of the rotor stub shafts as it sounds like they damaged it and were not honest about it to you.


Leon

The rotor stub shafts look to be in good condition so far what I can see. Also when running the flail and looking at the rotor, it appears straight and smoothly rotating, until RPMS increase above ~ 300 PTO rpm when the vibration starts.

The weldments are the c shaped shackle brackets welded on the rotor, correct? I spoke with RANKIN EQUIPMENT in Washington state and they put me in touch with my local dealer, which is Sound Tractor, to order the weldments.

 

[Blake13]

So i was able to remove the non-drive side bearing with a jaw puller. The bearing looks to be in really good shape actually.

The problem now... I thought removing a bearing would reveal how i can drop the spindle but it only stumps me further. There is a removable slot cover that I removed on the drive side that will allow the stub shaft to drop out. On the non-drive side the stub shaft is captured in a fairly low clearance hole in the frame. I cant pull the whole rotor towards the frame slot on the drive-side because it is only large enough to clear the stub shaft, not the entire rotor. Either the stub shafts are removable or I will have to cut out a slot to drop the non-drive stub shaft down.....or there is something i am not seeing....