Flip-Up Lenses

[jake98]

From outside to inside.. gasket, clear glass, clear plastic, tint, magnifier, spring, in that order?
Skip the clear plastic with a gold lens?

 

[DanD78]

I like a clear plastic, tented lense, magnafier and another plastic if there is room. I have never tried the gold lense. I use a Speed Glass my self and keep a Jackson full view on the shelf. Keep extra plastics on hand because they do get spots and sctatched up.

Dan

 

[jake98]

Yeah, I just found out about the room, they don't all fit. I think the plastic cuts out uv rays or something, I left that out since the magnifier is plastic and I think the gold is for uv too. I gotta read up.

 

[Shield Arc]

For any welding that produces sparks, I use a clear plastic lens on the outside, gasket, glass colored lens, gasket, and then a clear glass lens. When Tig welding I use all glass. Too many plastic lenses give me a blurry view.:confused2:

 

[Gary Fowler]

X2 Shieldarc. Gaskets never go outside as the first part of an assemble. You need the clear lens first (glass or plastic) then gasket, then dark lens of what ever type(tinted glass, gold lens, autodark lens etc) then another clear lens (glass works best for the back side next to your face)to protect the back of the lens from stray sparks. The glass not only allows for clearer vision but if a stray buckshot bounces inside the hood, it will usually stick to the glass and not ricochet back toward your face or eye like it does with plastic. If I use a cheater lens, I put it in last. If I have room, it goes behind the last clear lens, if not, I use it as the last clear lens. Most of them are plastic although I do have one that is glass and it does have a few buckshot marks on it. It would be great is someone made a hood with a deep enough pocket to put all the lenses and a cheater in properly. Usually they have to be jury rigged in especially on the AD hoods.