Fluid change on Jinma 304

Momboy007 · Jan 20, 2006

Hello All once again,
Well I was just talked into changing all of my fluids on this board on my last post.
Is their filter part numbers cross reference to ,say, a NAPA part number, where should I buy the fluids, I have a Walmart and Costco both close.
What should I be using in each chamber? Motor, hydraulic, etc...

I also noticed when I was tightening all the nuts and bolts on my New Jinma (and there was alot of loose items) that on the hydraulic pump, on the right hand side of the motor, that one of the hydraulic lines looks real nice, good bends on the tubing, while the other looks like it may be pinching at each of the bends, it even looks like different style tubing stock, anyone have any idea's on this one?

Thanks,
Rick

P.S. Do I need to flush the fluid chambers once I drain them?

Thanks again,
Rick

RonMar · Jan 20, 2006

Well I mentioned my fluid preferences in your other post. You can get the Rotella and the gear oil at walmart, just be sure that the gear oil is low/anti foaming and the label says " safe for yellow metals"(copper, brass and bronze). I have only been able to find this specific wording on the label on GL-4 gear oils. The hydraulic fluid can probably be found at Napa autoparts. I have even seen it at my local Schucks.

I would reccomend flushing the gearbox and front axel with Kerosene. Drain out the old fluid, fill to normal level with kero and drive the tractor around for a bit, then drain it out and refill with the new fluids. Same with the hydraulics. If you search the chinese forum for fluids, you will find these procedures described in detail in several places.

Ron

gunslinger101 · Jan 20, 2006

GL-5 class gear oil is anti foaming and yellow metal friendly.
I use 80/90 GL-5 in the trans and front axle and AW 32 in the hydraulic system since I live in cold country. A brand name 15/40 motor oil for diesel service is good for the engine such as Rotella or Delo 400
The oil filter should be a NAPA 1515 and the fuel filter is a NAPA 3195.
I would flush the trans front axle and hydraulic's before putting new fluids in.
I have seen the tubing bends look as you said, its the different size and bend.

Momboy007 · Jan 24, 2006

Gunslinger,
You say in your post that you have seen this tubing being somewhat pinched before, did this need to be replaced or not?
Thanks,
Rick

ToolManRick · Jan 24, 2006

GL-5 is only yellow metal friendly if it states it is. I eventually found GL-1 (ML-1) which does not contain the extreme pressure ingredients which can cause the oxidation of brass, copper, etc. Even the harmful GL-5 is not a problem unless moisture is present. The water reacts with the extreme pressure ingredents to create chlorine gas which in turn oxidizes (etches) the copper/brass components. They'll go from their original color to an etched black color.

gunslinger101 · Jan 24, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Gunslinger,
You say in your post that you have seen this tubing being somewhat pinched before, did this need to be replaced or not?
Thanks,
Rick )</font>

The ones I have incountered didn't need replaced, if it isn't pinched it should be ok, hard to say without seeing it.

gunslinger101 · Jan 24, 2006

my research (manufacuters) has found that all current production GL-5 is yellow metal friendly weather stated on the lable or not also there is a current thread on CTOA that seems to verify that.
I buy only brand named oils, thus it is stated on my containers and we know wal-mart doesn't own a refinery for oil YET so it is bought from major brand manufacture companies.
http://www.ctoa.net/ldu/forums.php?m=posts&q=603&n=last&PHPSESSID=4f022913438252c7c5a0117d789e8f35#bottom

you decide