GRUMPA
Gold Member
I just got done replacing the bad cylinder this morning. With the advice that was given from web page .Well let me tell you from first hand knowledge it sounds good, but it dosent quite work that way, theirs just not enough room to work dispite the front wheels being off the ground.
Heres what I ended up doing. The 2 bolts that hold it down an 11/16 open end wrench works kinda tight so I used that to take it off, but first you have to sacrifice a wrench by cutting it down to about 2 1/2" long. Even doing that you still wont be able to get your hand in there to work (I got fat hands). Basically your using one flat spot on the bolt at a time (took over and hour to get them off). Once you get to where the bolt is free enough, with your finger tips you can just barely unscrew it enough to get it off.
The 2 banjo bolts are the easiest of the whole thing, came off without a problem. Now heres where the fun really starts. If anyone has to replace one of these gems you'll notice theres 3 holes on the mounting bracket, the 2 end ones for the bolts and the 1 in the center is for a dowel pin located on the front diferential. Do your self a favor and just drill the center hole out just one itty-bitty size bigger. I had a devil of a time getting it in before I did that. Makes the job go a bit better.
Trying to get your hand (or any hand for that matter) back in there to put the bolts back in is a real trick. Like I stated earlier there isnt but a small opening not large enough to get a hand in there. I have this grabber about 3' long I used to help with that. Now try and tighten those things in reverse order as you took them off is even harder (took 2hrs)
but I managed.
Best advice I would give anyone is this. Invest in a "GOOD" set of crowsfeet wrenchs. If you have a FEL use it to lift the tractor front end off the ground so the tires are at least 5"-6" off the ground, use good jackstands and put all the weight on them and not really the FEL (you'll be under it working not a great idea to think hydraulics are good enough). Open the hood on the tractor and just below and in front of the radiator you'll see the heads of the bolts you need to take off. You'll need length so get out your extensions and take them off, its slow going so plan on a better part of a morning for this project.
After a few choice words and time you'll know what I mean, its not a fast job at all. Then get an oil drain pan because some fluids will come out when you take off the banjo bolts for the steering. Measure distance between tires cause your gonna want to put it back to the same setting. Then take off the tie rod ends. Just remember to bleed the steering of air by moving your steering wheel from one end to the other to the max travel.
Although I wish there was an easier way of doing it there really isnt, I just hope the new one lasts 1 heck of alot longer than the first one did.
Heres what I ended up doing. The 2 bolts that hold it down an 11/16 open end wrench works kinda tight so I used that to take it off, but first you have to sacrifice a wrench by cutting it down to about 2 1/2" long. Even doing that you still wont be able to get your hand in there to work (I got fat hands). Basically your using one flat spot on the bolt at a time (took over and hour to get them off). Once you get to where the bolt is free enough, with your finger tips you can just barely unscrew it enough to get it off.
The 2 banjo bolts are the easiest of the whole thing, came off without a problem. Now heres where the fun really starts. If anyone has to replace one of these gems you'll notice theres 3 holes on the mounting bracket, the 2 end ones for the bolts and the 1 in the center is for a dowel pin located on the front diferential. Do your self a favor and just drill the center hole out just one itty-bitty size bigger. I had a devil of a time getting it in before I did that. Makes the job go a bit better.
Trying to get your hand (or any hand for that matter) back in there to put the bolts back in is a real trick. Like I stated earlier there isnt but a small opening not large enough to get a hand in there. I have this grabber about 3' long I used to help with that. Now try and tighten those things in reverse order as you took them off is even harder (took 2hrs)
but I managed.
Best advice I would give anyone is this. Invest in a "GOOD" set of crowsfeet wrenchs. If you have a FEL use it to lift the tractor front end off the ground so the tires are at least 5"-6" off the ground, use good jackstands and put all the weight on them and not really the FEL (you'll be under it working not a great idea to think hydraulics are good enough). Open the hood on the tractor and just below and in front of the radiator you'll see the heads of the bolts you need to take off. You'll need length so get out your extensions and take them off, its slow going so plan on a better part of a morning for this project.
After a few choice words and time you'll know what I mean, its not a fast job at all. Then get an oil drain pan because some fluids will come out when you take off the banjo bolts for the steering. Measure distance between tires cause your gonna want to put it back to the same setting. Then take off the tie rod ends. Just remember to bleed the steering of air by moving your steering wheel from one end to the other to the max travel.
Although I wish there was an easier way of doing it there really isnt, I just hope the new one lasts 1 heck of alot longer than the first one did.
