FORD 1210 PROBLEMS

nuke · Sep 9, 2003

Chim,

I to have a Ford 1210 with the following problems:

1)black smoke under load and high RPM. Starts right up and runs strong. The air filter is new. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

2) Pushes radiator fluid out the overflow. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

3) Engine has what seems lik a slight knock at idle. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Have any of you had these problems and if so how can I fix mine. Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry I went a little nuts with the instant faces!

chim · Sep 9, 2003

Nuke,

Black smoke - Mine's done it forever, particularly under load. At high RPM's the smoke is lighter in color until the load is applied. There's a hill I mow at Mom's that makes the 1210 really puff black. A new short block about 6 years ago made no difference. The exhaust on the Ford always bordered on offensive.

Overflow - Are your screen and radiator clean? I had my screen clogged with a bunch of "fuzzies" from weeds and had mine push coolant out. Cleaning the screen and radiator was a quick and effective fix. If that isn't the case with yours, maybe a good cooling system flush would help.

Knock - Mine sounded the same before and after the engine work. It is much louder than my Kubota.

My Ford was quite "used" when I bought it, and there were some other things that needed attention along the way. I replaced the clutch. The alloy ends on the steering linkage between the bottom end of the steering shaft and the left front got kinda stretched out and wouldn't stay tight. The front driveshaft made a lot of noise (awful rattle when going downhill and letting off the pedal) till I rigged a fix. The linkage for the hydro came apart inside the case. With the exception of the short block (that was a biggie) I was able to handle the other stuff myself and without spending big bucks. It's in pretty good shape now....................chim

mikell · Sep 10, 2003

Sounds about right. Mine has a loud knock in the clutch area with the pto running any suggestions. I'll probably split it this winter but all help is appreciated.

mikell

mikell@tds.net

chim · Sep 11, 2003

When you split it, look for critter nests around the clutch. Not that they'd cause your noise, but I wondered how they got in there.

Splitting them is fairly simple. I did mine a few times - once for a new clutch, once for a linkage prob, and once because I'm stupid (but we won't go into why I thought the clutch took a crap when the problem was the "L/N/H" lever somehow got into "N"). Splitting and reassembly can be done in an afternoon.

Remove any suitcase weights and the hood, battery and fuel tank. There's other stuff such as electrical and hydraulic plumbing that are obvious because they cross the "split line". I have a light duty lifting point in my garage that I hook a cable comealong to and grab the front half of the tractor by the engine lifting eye to keep the front half upright if you took the suitcase weights off the front.

There are tapped holes on the right side of the housing about where your right foot would rest. Make up a short piece of angle iron or unistrut to bolt to the case and rest on the floor. Attach before splitting the tractor. This allows you to move the back half away from the fornt half without wearing it. The back half can be handled like a big wheelbarrow and wheeled and parked in the next bay of the garage if you like.

I never replaced the O-rings on the hydraulic banjo fittings, when reassembling but it certainly wouldn't hurt. Cheap insurance................chim

nuke · Sep 11, 2003

Black Smoke:

I cleaned the fuel tank and blew out all of the fuel lines. I reassembled and it ran better. I noticed a small leak around the #1 injector when sprayed with soapy water. I pulled it and could not remove the brass washer or the injector seat. I will get these parts and try again later.

Overflow:

I am still baffled by this. I flushed the radiator but it still seems to be heating up and overflowing. I plan to flush the radiator again and replace the thermostat. The thermostat seems to be integrated with the water pump. What do you think?

chim · Sep 11, 2003

I'm not familiar with the 'stat. Never had to go further than the screen/radiator to solve the overheating on mine. Sounds like the logical next step....................chim

mikell · Sep 15, 2003

The book says it's in the pump housing.

mikell

nuke · Sep 29, 2003

I was the one that started this post. I have finally competed repairs and had the chance to test it out. I thought I would post this to help others out there in the future. The following summarizes my findings:

Black Smoke - I completely cleaned the fuel system from tank to injectors. I removed the tank and soaked the inside with varsol for 2 days (time not sure if needed), removed the lines from injection pump to injectors and blew them out and sprayed brake clean through them, pulled injectors and cleaned the copper washer and precombustion chamber (a little cup like device) and reinstalled. When you remove the injectors, BE SURE to be carefull with the overflow return line, I broke mine and a buddy brazed it back together (an expensive F*** up if you cannot braze!). Also, when you reinstall the injectors, check to insure you have an air tight seal (spray soapy water around the injector to check for leaks). A little leak will rob a lot of power.

Black Smoke (Results): The tractor does not blow black smoke unless I hit a dense spot of grass and then only a small puff. Normal exhaust is common though. The tractor pulled the 4' bush hog in 3rd (of 5) gear up and down smaller inclines (5-10%) with no problem. If the tractor is running correctly, the tractor will pull great (4' hog at least) and smoke very little.

Overheating - I flushed the radiator twice and ran plain water through 3 times to clear out completely. Tractor experienced no blow back through the vent tube after this.

Knock - Went away.

I hope this helps others. I was about to sell the tractor but now I think I'll keep it! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

finaddictmike · Jul 21, 2011

NUKE, how did you get the pre-combustion chambers out? Did they pull out or did you remove the head and punch them out. I've got a smoker and when I removed injectors for cleaning I noticed what looked just like a bead with a large hole in it just loose and moving around in two of the chambers. Has me baffled, I didn't see anything like that in the parts diagram or repair manual. I'll live with the smoke before I pull the head.