Ford 1220 FEL hydraulic valve question

Kernopelli · Nov 28, 2006

I had contacted a local shop originally and think they could fix it up for me, the main problem for me is that I am trying to do this splice without having to take the hard lines off my tractor to make the connections. The line would be a royal pain to get off the tractor-even after making my cut in it, I would have to partially remove the end loader frame, some left front sheet metal, floor board and rear fender to get the line off without bending it to pieces. I would take my tractor to them but my trailer is just too small to safely transport my tractor the 25 miles to their shop ( I didn't ask if they would make the repairs with the line still on the tractor-assume they would). For the quote they gave me, I would be better off to buy a flaring tool and do it all myself after I consider the time and money involved for them to do it. I am certain I can attach the fittings myself, I just need some help finding what would be best and most practical way. I REALLY have a hard time with spending $110+ on a tool I will in all likelihood only using one time. I have a 45 degree flare for residential plumbing and have considered trying to use it and hope the flare would "shrink" when the fitting is torqued down but have a suspicion that most would tell me that it would likely leak. Any input on that idea??

dqdave1 · Nov 29, 2006

Find someone or a business that will rent you the flaring tool. I have no idea of the line setup but can an adaptor be made off site and installed? One side would be the 12 mm and the other end would be 1/2".

Kernopelli · Nov 29, 2006

That's a good idea. It is by far my best avenue- the JIC route VS compression- and if I can rent the tool I will be in good shape. Thanks for the input.

Darryl

Kernopelli · Dec 3, 2006

Well, I have a new issue now. I got all my leaks and connections taken care of but have a problem with my bucket hydraulics. When I dump the bucket I blew the high pressure line. The first time this happened I stalled the motor when attempting to dump but I was running at low RPM"s and just figured I needed to idle it up a little more. I restarted and could tell that when I tried dumping again that if I didn't do it very slowly it produced a lot of pressure and started to bog the motor. I checked all the other loader functions by moving the valve and everything functioned effortlessly (raise arms, lower arms, curl bucket all worked smoothly) but as soon as I opened the joystick to the dump function again it blew the 1/2" hose spliced from the pumps hard line to the valve. I replaced the hose this morning and was careful to let the oil warm up and began using the loader and slowly opening the valve to dump the bucket and that seemed to help but sure enough, after several buckets, I opened the valve all the way to dump the bucket and I actually cracked the pump housing! Looks like I'll be ordering a new pump. What I really need to know is what is causing this though? HELP!

MadReferee · Dec 3, 2006

Some random thoughts:

Does your valve have a pressure relief? Is it set correctly?

Is the system relief set properly? (I doubt it).

Have you swapped hoses from the bucket cylinders to the lift cylinders?

Have you checked all the connections?

Dumping extends the bucket cylinders. The problem looks to be there.

You most likely have a defective valve, work port hose or cylinder. If the valve had a pressure relief it should have popped way before the hose blew.

dqdave1 · Dec 3, 2006

You definately have a high pressure problem; undersized return lines? relief valve setting too high? Plugged filter? plugged or crimped lines? Are lines correctly hooked up?
If motor/pump is loading up, pressure is extremely high.