ford 1510 Hydraulics have no power

[foster1]

I am having problems with the hydraulic system on my ford 1510.

History of what I have done.
Tractor was parked for several years I started it up, the loader and 3 point was lifting very sporadic, and was unusable. I took the loader off, 3 point still doesnt work.

I change the fluid (no signs of water)and filter. I DID use the Ford 134 hydraulic oil.
3 point seemed to work decently for a couple days, then same sporadic problems occurred.
I also noticed when I would turn the tractor off the three point would drain down on its own.

So I then pulled the rear main cylinder and the seal on it was 80% gone, I replaced the seal. That fixxed the drain down problem, But I was still having sporadic problems with the 3 point lifting.

I then took the handle assembly off, which contains the control valve. I took it all apart replaced all the O rings, noticed one of the valves was stuck inside the housing. I broke it free and cleaned the rust off, it polished up pretty good. Other problem I encountered was, one of the cylinders in the housing did not fit back in its sleeve. It was moving free when I took the control valve apart, but upon reassembly it had to be forced in. I polished/sanded it enough to make it slide freely in the sleeve again. This had me puzzled, the only thng I can think I did wrong was I heated the housing up with a torch to get one of the nuts off, maybe this heat threw off the size of the housing? nonetheless, the cylinder is free sliding in the sleeve now but not so much that it would be too lose and leaking.

Still have problems after reassembling the control valve, so I take the hydraulic pump off. Replaced all the o rings in it.
inspect it, doesn't seem to be worn out. shows no grooves, teeth on gears are sharp to a point. Compared it with a manual I found online and can't seem to find the wear marks that prove the pump to be bad. The wear marks in the manual are very minuscule, so I could be over looking it, but with less than a thousand hours on the tractor I wouldn't think the pump is worn out.

While I had the pump off, I filled the gear case with diesel, and flushed it through several times. Used an engine cleaning gun to spray diesel through the lines. I did get some gunk out of the system not a lot, and nothing that I would think would clog the system.

filled up with new hydraulic oil, and filter. re assemble.
first day the 3 point seems to be working fine.
second day the three point works with no weight on it, but If I stand on the draw bar (200 pounds) It will not lift me. If I step off of it it will lift.
There is no screen to clean junk off of, just a spin on filter, I am on the second new one.


Where to I go now? What could cause the 3 point to work, but have no strength?

 

[TimBuck2]

Did you put a pressure gauge on the pump to see if it builds the pressure it is supposed to? That would have been (has been for similar problems) the first thing I would do.

Note that you can find suitable pressure gages to read up to 3K - 5K psi on ebay for a song.

 

[foster1]

Did you put a pressure gauge on the pump to see if it builds the pressure it is supposed to? That would have been (has been for similar problems) the first thing I would do.

Note that you can find suitable pressure gages to read up to 3K - 5K psi on ebay for a song.

Doing a little research now, seems that everyone uses a pressure gauge with a plug in fitting, plug it into an aux. hydraulic hook up and use the controls to bump the fluid into that port.

Is it possible/ safe to just hook the gauge directly to the hydraulic pump? Or will this harm the pump as there would be no where for the fluid to go.

Reason I ask, Is I dont know where else I would hook the gauge. I have two loader hoses, but they must be hooked together to keep the fluid flowing through the system. Other than those, I have no where to hook the gauge.

 

[TimBuck2]

Is there a plug on the pump where you can put a gauge? If so, that plug is probably there specifically to test the pressure (I suppose it could also be used as an auxillary pressure port if you can plumb in the return).

If not, so you have hoses at the auxilary ports for the hydraulic system hooked up to run a front loader? Just put a gauge on the pressure port to the loader. The hydraulic fluid can still run through the 3 point circuit, so there should not be any issues there.

If I am misunderstanding, and there is, in fact, just one pressure port associated with the pump, try this:

Put a gauge on that pressure port, disconnect the distributor wire so the engine can not start, turn the engine over with the starter motor once or twice. Maybe three or four times if you don't see pressure to the guage. You will need to be able to watch the gauge while you do this. What ever pressure the pump can build should register on the gauge more or less immediately.

 

[foster1]

Pump itself only has intake and outake.
It is routed to a "distribution block"
this block has two hoses for the loader. One to feed fluid and one for return fluid.
When the loader is off (it is now) the hoses for it must be hooked together or else the 3 point won't work.

SO I don't think I can hook the gauge to the loader feed hose as the fluid will be dead ending at the gauge still.

I guess I will have to use your method of bumping the engine over. Although I would think the rpms would have to be up for the pump to be giving full pressure.

 

[TimBuck2]

The bottom line is, you don't know whether your pump is making the needed pressure, your diagnosis and fix need to start there.

I forgot to mention a better option than dead ending the gage at the pump - fit up a T at the pressure port and mount the gage there. If you try the dead end method, put it on the pump, not at the dist block AND you will need to be careful not to strip the gears between your engine and pump as the pump will go to pressure right away.

You should go to the FORD/New Holland form here, or at yesterday's tractor and ask how to measure the pressure in your system. Also describe your work on the valve. From the sound of it you probably need a re-build or replacment of the valve.