Ford 1600 -- Oil Pressure Light On

[djradz]

I'm not sure about the 1600, but on the 1710 and newer series tractors there is a very thin pipe, about 1/8" OD and a foot or more long that runs from the side of the engine block up to the valve head area. The line is about the same size as the injector lines going to each cylinder. The pressure sensor is also in the head. Therefore, if the line is plugged or restricted, although the lower portion of the engine may be getting good lubrication, the head is not. Easiest way to check it is, assuming the 1600 is the same, is to take the upper bolt off of the line with the engine running at about 1500 rpm and see if oil seems to be coming out. In general, it shouldn't shoot out, but should flow very readily. Don't leave the engine running for more that a minute or two with this line disconnected (assuming it was working in the first place) If no oil is coming, better shut the engine down and clean the line and fittings or maybe just replace it.

 

[BWMoore]

I replaced the Oil Pressure Sending unit on my Ford 1600. The light went off!

 

[sparc]

I replaced the Oil Pressure Sending unit on my Ford 1600. The light went off!

Great. Now when you have time clean all that gunk off the outside of the motor because it holds heat in and can affect operation as well as making it a PITA to figure out where a new leak might be starting or to do any service work.

As was said consider getting your local dealer to make a service call and go over the machine and explain basic maintenance to you. A couple hundred bucks would be well spent toward keeping this tractor running and much cheaper than replacing it.

A motor that has gone so long without a oil or filter change has a possibility of having plugged oil passages in the block. These are small channels that direct oil flow to specific parts of the motor. A small piece of sludge can block an oil passge just like a person gets a blocked artery, the end result is the same too, no life giving blood (or oil) reaches that part of the body. It might pay (but sometimes it can cause more problems than it cures) might be to do a motor flush once you've gone over it and assessed it situation. This would disolve and loosen all that built-up gunk. Or a safer path might be to drop the oil pan after running the motor and getting it good and hot which will help to loosen up crud and wash it into the pan. Drain the oil and drop the pan and clean all the crud out of the pan.

You need to seal up those air intake leaks as that's where dust and grit enter the motor and are killing it. It's like asbestos is to your lungs. Once it gets in there it not coming out and it will keep working on you until it kills you, or in this case the tractor. Dragging the arena with the frequency that your are is exposing the motor to grit that is slowly chewing it up inside. Connect the hose and put hose clamps on each connection, look for additional inleakage points too.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Do you realize this is a 9 year old thread.
Bill

 

[sparc]

Do you realize this is a 9 year old thread.
Bill

I see that it was started 9 years ago but the last post was just the other day and it caught my attention. My response does not help the OP yes but it may be helpful to someone else later on.