Ford 1700 Battery Drain

[undy]

I've got a Ford 1700 that drains the battery when it sits. (I've actually got two Ford 1700's, one is for parts. The wiring is similar between the two, so I can compare the wiring and/or swap parts.) I'm at least a little bit familiar with electrics.

The drain is no secret, when I connect the battery the voltage regulator makes a click, even with the key 'off'. So what's causing it, the regulator or something else? I did all my testing with the engine off.

The first thing I did was swap the regulator. The replacement unit clicks too.

Without a wiring schematic, I wasn't sure what went where. To try and locate the area of the problem, I began unplugging things and seeing if it stopped the regulator click. I found that if I unplugged the 2-wire plug into the alternator the regulator didn't click (yellow wire and white /w black wire). Both of these leads run back to the regulator, on both tractors.

I have 12v on the white wire going into the regulator. (This is fed 12V+ from the large yellow wire from alternator-starter-battery.) Same wiring as on the parts tractor.

The parts tractor has the original alternator, but the newer tractor came with a replacement alternator of a different look. It has the same four terminals, and is wired the same. I'm considering swapping the parts alternator into the tractor to see if this makes any difference. I've checked each alternator with an ohmmeter, from ground to the 2-wire connector leads. The results are different. (Sorry, I'm not at my shop so I don't have my notes. One of the readings on this alternator was open. The parts alternator gave a reading on the same terminal. I just don't remember what the numbers were.)

Can anybody give me advice on how & what to check to see if this alternator is causing the voltage regulator to activate and drain my battery?

 

[vvanders]

Take a look at the other thread here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/396267-ford-1710-will-crank-but-2.html you'll be able to find wiring diagrams. The fact that the replacement part does the same thing makes me wonder if you've got a short or something wrong elsewhere.

 

[undy]

Thanks VV. I'll be looking at it again tomorrow.

 

[jaxs]

It shouldn't be necessary to remove the alternator. Just make sure test alternator is grounded(booster cable from -post to alternator case then connect wires to test alternator.

 

[jones6780]

Have you removed the fuses?

 

[undy]

Have you removed the fuses?

I did, as part of figuring out the circuits. I pulled one end of all the fuses, just to isolate things.

But I'm still of the opinion that this may all tie to the alternator. When I plug/unplug the two-wire plug on the alternator, I can hear the voltage regulator relay click on/off. Those two wires that connect the v. reg. to the alternator are not fused.

 

[John_Mc]

It sounds as though your key switch is not disconnecting power completely or a relay is sticking somewhere (assuming there isn't a short somewhere else in the circuit). I don't think you should have +12 V to the regulator or alternator when the ignition switch is off.