I just aquired a smoking 1700 and upon dissassembly of the engine found both pistons busted in between the 1st and 2nd rings. Someone probably used ether to try to start it. I have contacted my local dealer about replacements and asked him to give me bore limit sizes and he came up with something like 3.3-- inches maximum. This is wrong as my bore is 3.54. The pistons measure 3.52. Tractor Data shows a 3.54 std bore. Does anyone have a factory service manual that would tell me the bore limits on this thing? Also how about ring end gaps and torque specs on the head and conn rods. I am planning on getting a manual but with having to buy 2 new pistons at 220.00 dollars each that sucks a lot of coin away for other things. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Scott1700 said:
Howdy and welcome to TBN Blue,
below you'll find the specs on bore and Pistons on F-1700. I picked it up from IT shop manual FO-44 page 36. Let me know if you need something else. Sorry for you misfortune..
JC,
BWBrown
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2007
- Messages
- 84
- Tractor
- Ford 1700, IH 2500A
How many hours are on that 1700? Sorry to hear of the trouble. I am still using the 1700 I bought new in 1980(ish). It has given fair service all along. I had to sell it to a friend at one point, but eventually bought it back. I think that counting both purchases, (less what I sold it for
) and a rough memory of repairs, I think I must have about 8,000 invested in it.
Being one who is relegated to running mostly "equipment of smaller investment" (well used) I envy and wish the best to those who are able to put out 10's of thousands of dollars for nice new equipment - be assured, I would if I could.
However, for me, used it is. Sometimes you have to put money into repairs usually not seen by owners of newer stuff.
I justify it to myself (and my wife) that "$440.00 is less than two payments" on a more expensive new machine.
Get 'er fixed up, and she (your 1700) should serve you well. Just be sure to stay within the original design parameters, treat her "gently" and she will have a lot of life to go. My Dad always said "Anybody can break tools. It takes a careful, smart worker to use tools without abusing them."
Too much ether... An old timer once showed me a trick using a (wrung out) rag soaked is gasoline over the air intake. I also have used ether sparingly, but much better to plug it in a couple hours before you need it.
Good luck.
) and a rough memory of repairs, I think I must have about 8,000 invested in it.
Being one who is relegated to running mostly "equipment of smaller investment" (well used) I envy and wish the best to those who are able to put out 10's of thousands of dollars for nice new equipment - be assured, I would if I could.
However, for me, used it is. Sometimes you have to put money into repairs usually not seen by owners of newer stuff.
I justify it to myself (and my wife) that "$440.00 is less than two payments" on a more expensive new machine.
Get 'er fixed up, and she (your 1700) should serve you well. Just be sure to stay within the original design parameters, treat her "gently" and she will have a lot of life to go. My Dad always said "Anybody can break tools. It takes a careful, smart worker to use tools without abusing them."
Too much ether... An old timer once showed me a trick using a (wrung out) rag soaked is gasoline over the air intake. I also have used ether sparingly, but much better to plug it in a couple hours before you need it.
Good luck.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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Makes ya wonder where the dealer fished that info from.. or did he just guess or make it up out of thin air????
soundguy
soundguy
BWBrown
Bronze Member
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- Oct 28, 2007
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- 84
- Tractor
- Ford 1700, IH 2500A
My owners manual says:
Bore.....3.54 in. (9.0cm)
the information given by JC is exactly correct, right from the IT manual. Max bore of 3.590
If your bore is less than 3.590 and is not out of round. it should be a fairly straight forward piston and ring install. You might want to check other clearances (bearings, etc.) while you're in there.
Re: the dealers information of 3.3" maximum - it's possible he confused specs with the 1500 (3.040 max) or the 1710 (max of 3.315)
The 1900 and 1910-2110 list a max bore of 3.354.
But the 1700 is definitly spec'd a max bore of 3.590.
Bore.....3.54 in. (9.0cm)
the information given by JC is exactly correct, right from the IT manual. Max bore of 3.590
If your bore is less than 3.590 and is not out of round. it should be a fairly straight forward piston and ring install. You might want to check other clearances (bearings, etc.) while you're in there.
Re: the dealers information of 3.3" maximum - it's possible he confused specs with the 1500 (3.040 max) or the 1710 (max of 3.315)
The 1900 and 1910-2110 list a max bore of 3.354.
But the 1700 is definitly spec'd a max bore of 3.590.
I borrowed a dial bore gauge and both cyls are less than 3.59. I have ordered pistons w/rings and new rod brngs and gaskets. I have the head in my local mach shop and should be hearing back from them this week. The best I could determine I can get away with std pistons and rings even though it has over 2000 hrs.Hour meter has stopped though. I don't want to have to bore this thing. Thanks for the info JC. I ended up finding a private dealer/shop that does not handle Ford but can get parts and had the info I needed. He's usually cheaper on parts than the dealer and it's factory parts. Go figure? Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll have to type back for something else or to help someone else. BW thanks for the tip on gas, I use that one at work all winter long-- You can use a squrit bottle with gas and midly soak the breather down on a unit with a paper filter. It does not damage like ether does. You guys are great Thanks Scott
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Scott1700 said:
Scott,
That should be a nice project. If you can and have the camera and patience would be great to take pics of your progress. I would love to see the innards of Ford 1700, although I have the diagrams to see what's going on but pics are a heck of a lot better. It helps others to in case they need to do the same.
JC,
JC,
BWBrown
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2007
- Messages
- 84
- Tractor
- Ford 1700, IH 2500A
"BW thanks for the tip on gas, I use that one at work all winter long-- You can use a squrit bottle with gas and midly soak the breather down on a unit with a paper filter. It does not damage like ether does."
Ether tends, if too much is used, to wash down the lubricating oil film on the cylinder walls.
The gas trick simply makes the intake air more volatile. Cheaper too.
Bob
JC - Great news from the micrometer! Good luck!
Ether tends, if too much is used, to wash down the lubricating oil film on the cylinder walls.
The gas trick simply makes the intake air more volatile. Cheaper too.
Bob
JC - Great news from the micrometer! Good luck!
blue pride not green envy
New member
On our farm we had a 1700. It was quite a step up from a 9n ford. We did have a few problems with it. Head was cracked when we got it.... Eventually we put a new short block on it, and it was like a new machine for awhile. We did put a clutch or two into it. Easy job. We did have a tranny problem at one time and my NH dealer could not get two of the gears anymore, SO we looked for a used transmission and it worked great. (I think it was the last one in the world as hard as we looked) You guys talk about either... people have told me that WD40 will work like either but I never had luck with it. We used the 1700 for EVERYTHING, but a couple of winters it was used to move silage to fenceline bunks for cattle. The couple of times we did use either to start this tractor, it took A VERY LITTLE AND I DO MEAN LITTLE BIT to start. If you gave it more than a second worth it would not start at all. After 17 years of the 1700, the td 40 has replaced it. My dealer talked me into a hydro, and it is ok.... but I think a gear driven tractor would be better. Cool forum!!!
Tim
Tim
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Tim,
Thanks for sharing your 1700 experience with us. You certainly had a mixed bag of stuff happening. I think proper maintenance and operation goes a long way in longevity of every tractor. I do not expect to change major stuff (gear, block and head) anytime during the life of a unit. obviously consumable parts of tractor need attention and replacement should there be a need such as(battery , alternator , fuel and hydraulic pump and etc). Cracked head for sure has a cause that almost always can be avoided by diligence. I do not have any experience using ether to start up an engine but find it a bit haphazard way to get a tractor going. I would employ a little less harsh method if I get in to a bind.
JC,
p.s Welcome to TBN
Thanks for sharing your 1700 experience with us. You certainly had a mixed bag of stuff happening. I think proper maintenance and operation goes a long way in longevity of every tractor. I do not expect to change major stuff (gear, block and head) anytime during the life of a unit. obviously consumable parts of tractor need attention and replacement should there be a need such as(battery , alternator , fuel and hydraulic pump and etc). Cracked head for sure has a cause that almost always can be avoided by diligence. I do not have any experience using ether to start up an engine but find it a bit haphazard way to get a tractor going. I would employ a little less harsh method if I get in to a bind.
JC,
p.s Welcome to TBN