Oil & Fuel Ford 1700 oil pump remove and replace

[coenj]

Am trying to replace the oil pump on my 1500-hour Ford 1700. Got the timing cover off, the pump drive gear off, and the two pump impellers removed. Discovered I cannot remove the pump body without also removing the back plate of the timing cover (cover has a lip in the way not mentioned in the IT manual) Tried removing from rear thru oil pan, but crankshaft prohibits. SO, reluctantly decided to remove timing gears from cam, idler, and fuel ***'y in order to remove backplate. Cannot seem to remove retaining nut (approx 22 mm) from camshaft drive gear. Don't know if it is RH or LH, but tried both ways with approximately 150 ft-lbs without budging it. May try to get an impact socket to fit. Am I missing something? Thoughts?

 

[JC-jetro]

Am trying to replace the oil pump on my 1500-hour Ford 1700. Got the timing cover off, the pump drive gear off, and the two pump impellers removed. Am I missing something? Thoughts?

The pics below were posted by one of the members during his F-1700 Overhaul that included disassembly of injector pump. Do notice on the timing witness mark he put so to avoid timing issues. I'm confused about the reference to the impeller? what do you mean there? do you any picture of your progress up to now? It appears to me once you take the injector pump gear off, then you have three bolts to remove to free up the pump, provided you have taken the injector pump throttle linkage, fuel discharge pipes off and fuel intake hose..

I hope the pics below help some.




JC,

Irrelevant pics removed



My apologies, I kind of did it in hurry at work and did not realize you are talking about oil pump rather than injector pump. My bad!!

 

[Texas Blues]

Hey JC, on the first picture, the lowest gear with the red flange is the oil pump? Thanks, TB

 

[coenj]

JC,

Thanks for the photo. See my marked up version below. The impellers I am referring to are the two gear lobes (not visible in the photo) behind the pump cover plate. Can you see my dilemna about the pump housing? Any thoughts about the LH vs RH thread on the cam shaft gear nut?

 

[Texas Blues]

The nut should come loose with enough force. I would try and impact on it. As far as left or right hand threads, I dont know. Havent ran across very many nuts that wont come loose with a big enough breaker bar, and sometimes the use of a cheater pipe extending the length of the breaker bar. Holding the gear from turning is an issue sometimes. Certainly do not do anything that would break a tooth off of any gear (for example putting a screwdriver in between two teeth to hold them from turning), thats why an impact would be the best method. Have also used a punch and hammer on an edge of the nut, simulating an impact action. There is probably some sort of thread lock applied to the threads when it was first assembled. Good Luck, TB

 

[JC-jetro]

JC,

Thanks for the photo. See my marked up version below. The impellers I am referring to are the two gear lobes (not visible in the photo) behind the pump cover plate. Can you see my dilemna about the pump housing? Any thoughts about the LH vs RH thread on the cam shaft gear nut?

My bad, I should learn to read a bit better. I removed pic in reference to injector pump. Pic below shows an oil pump that is removed and it is held in place by two bolts. Please refer to the attached PDF as well. #4 is the cover and Bolts #5&6 are the cover bolt. I can not clearly see the lip as you explain. It looks to me when you take the oil pump gear off then you should be able to bolts on the pump cover. removing them and you should be able to take the pump off. I hope I;'m not advertising that I have done the same work on exactly the same rig. I'm going off the picture and parts break down. I hope this might be a bit more helpful.

JC,

PS. As far as the nut removal, I soak it, add a bit of heat to it (heat gun and no flame), and a good size breaker bar and try to avoid cheater bar unless it warrants itself. I yet to see any left hand thread on 1700 myself, it is "lefty... loosey" , I'd jam the gears with a piece of wood rather than metal to avoid damaging the gears, it would squash the wood but would not damage the gears.


Another thought, I also see holes on the side of housing, is it there to accept a dowel to keep the pump body from rotating? I'm reaching here!! The pump housing needs to come from front looking at the attached PDF.

 

[Texas Blues]

I see the lip on the inner timing cover. It looks like it should have been milled down to allow the pump housing to come out. Maybe the housing has a dowel on the back side that mates up with the pump housing to keep the housing from turning but not likely. It looks like the housing is round and would need to come straight out of its hole that it is in. I dont see a way to do that without taking the cover off. There was another guy in here who was needing to replace a freeze plug in his 1700, and the bell housing backing plate was right in the way, which required more disassembly than seemed necessary. I guess this is another case like that. Good Luck TB

Oh, by the way, can you post pictures of your progress? Pictures are a great tool to have!

 

[jones6780]

There is no dowell pin in the oil pump, it comes straight out of a close fit bore. I can't be sure but, I believe all the all the nuts were standard R/H threads. Why are you pulling the pump, bad oil pressure? Can you check the clearances with the pump body still in? I polished the cover plate on mine to get rid of wear as side clearance was in tolerance.

Russell

 

[coenj]

Yes, I am pulling the pump due to low oil pressure. You are correct that there is no dowel - I can spin the body in place. I might be able to get the feeler gage in without removing the body. Did you polish the cover plate by hand or send it to a shop?

 

[jones6780]

I polished it myself using the drill press table as a flat surface. Started with 150 grit and finished with 220. I polished both the end plate and the body to achieve the less than .004 end clearance. My tractor did not have the hours as yours does and only needed just a little correction. When checking side clearance apply pressure on the end of the shaft to make sure it does not lean due to the unsupported end. The .006 tolerance will also take into consideration the bore to shaft wear. If the hole or shaft is worn then it will allow the gear to move over. Check all the way around the gear as well, not just one spot.
The book shows a minimum of 17 psi for oil pressure. Have you thought that the pump is just part of the problem and you may have worn bearings in the engine thus losing pressure due to engine clearances?

Russell