:confused2:My 1700 diesel quit working, I started to pull the pump and screwed up the timing. We got that straightened out however now it overheats about 15 minutes after putting it in gear. It can run 2 hours in neutral without overheating. Any ideas to what could be wrong? I checked the radiator and it has 80% flow and has been cleaned. :confused2:
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Randy,
What other steps have you taken to diagnose the problem so far? do you see oil residue in radiator coolant? do you see tale tell sign of coolant in crankcase oil? have you actually checked the radiator temp when you think it overheats? is your belt tight enough? slippage? do you know if your gauge is okay? what resistance do you read @ gauge mid temp and at overheat temp by taking resistance of the sender unit against ground?
give us a few answers and we might be able to help
and welcome to TBN Blue.JC,
The belt is tight, replaced the water pump, no oil in the radiator, no smoke coming out of the exhaust. It will run for 2 hours without overheating but once you put it in gear it overheats in less than 15 minutes. The radiator has 80% flow and has been cleaned and flushed. Oil also looks good. The guage appears to be okay as it reads middle reading (about 200)when idling and creeps up after it is put in gear until the radiotor starts steaming. The coolant does not push out of the top of the radiator when it is idling either which I read is a general indicator of a cracked head or blown head gasket. I did not check the sending unit,
dcyrilc
Elite Member
Was there ever any overheating issues before you pulled the pump? Something in the back of my mind is saying that I've heard of overheating issues because of pump timing. You said that you had messed up the timing, is it possible that is might still not be correct?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Have you checked the t-stat? it is warm enough now so I might drain the radiator below t-stat, remove it and put things back without it to see if it overheats in 15 minutes. that might give good clue. How about lower and upper radiator hose? can you squeeze the bottom hose okay? you might have calcification of stuff in the water if they did not use proper antifreeze .
JC,
dcyrilc
Elite Member
I'm not a mechanic, but I think your biggest hint is that it didn't do it before messing up the timing. It never hurts to check other things, but keep that idea in the back of your mind and if nothing else pans out come back to the timing a third time if necessary. My best guess is that something still isn't quite right on the timing.
It could be as simple as this:
1) Check that fan belt 1 more time. From my owners manual: "A slipping fan belt will lower the efficiency of the fan resulting in the engine running too hot. If the belt is too tight it will shorten the alternator bearing life. A correctly tightened belt will deflect 7/16 to 9/16 inch when 20 to 25 lbs thumb pressure is applied midway between the belt pulleys. If you are getting more deflection than 9/16 inch then the belt is not tight enough. Look to see when you run the engine speed up around 2000 to 2200 rpm the belt starts to flop up and down instead of running smooth. Check the condition and tension of the belt every 200 hours. If the belt shows signs of fraying or cracking, replace the belt".
2) If you installed a new thermost it should be positioned in the recess of the water outlet connection so that the heat element (spring end) will be in the cylinder head. Important do not remove thermostat in an attempt to improve cooling. That will cause the engine to run below normal opperating temperature resulting in excessive engine wear.
3) If you didn't replace the belt, and it has been in use over 200 hours, now would be the time. Take the old one in so it can be matched correctly. If your alternator belt adjustment bracket is near the end of it's travel and you are getting a non factory belt, buy one a little shorter than the old belt because of streatching of the old one. Rayikeo
1) Check that fan belt 1 more time. From my owners manual: "A slipping fan belt will lower the efficiency of the fan resulting in the engine running too hot. If the belt is too tight it will shorten the alternator bearing life. A correctly tightened belt will deflect 7/16 to 9/16 inch when 20 to 25 lbs thumb pressure is applied midway between the belt pulleys. If you are getting more deflection than 9/16 inch then the belt is not tight enough. Look to see when you run the engine speed up around 2000 to 2200 rpm the belt starts to flop up and down instead of running smooth. Check the condition and tension of the belt every 200 hours. If the belt shows signs of fraying or cracking, replace the belt".
2) If you installed a new thermost it should be positioned in the recess of the water outlet connection so that the heat element (spring end) will be in the cylinder head. Important do not remove thermostat in an attempt to improve cooling. That will cause the engine to run below normal opperating temperature resulting in excessive engine wear.
3) If you didn't replace the belt, and it has been in use over 200 hours, now would be the time. Take the old one in so it can be matched correctly. If your alternator belt adjustment bracket is near the end of it's travel and you are getting a non factory belt, buy one a little shorter than the old belt because of streatching of the old one. Rayikeo
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Jerry/MT
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2008
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- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
I'm presuming that you checked the thermostat,the belt is tight, cleaned or blew out the air side of the radiator, the lower hose is not collapsing when you speed up the engine, and you have water flowing from the upper cooling hose to the radiator.
Make sure the air clreaner is not clogged. If the cooling sytem (waterpump, radiator, and thermostat) is operating as it should there are only one other source of heat and that's the fuel. Your pump is either over fueling or your airflow is restricted. In either case the fuel/air ratio is too high.
