pclausen
Veteran Member
Swapping in an alternator with an internal regular fixed it!
Here's external vs. internal:
They are virtually identical. Even the little booklets are clearly from the same place:
There is no need to change the wiring on that little T-connector on the alternator.
The N terminal (labeled S for Sensor on the new alternator), goes to 12V from the ignition.
The F terminal (labeled L for Lamp on the new alternator), goes to the Charge Light.
To accomplish both of the above, all you have to do is to cut the connector off the old regulator and then jumper a couple of the pins together like this:
N is jumped to IG to provide 12V to the Sensor input on the new alternator.
F is jumped to L which allows the Lamp signal from the new alternator to control the charge lamp in the dashboard.
Works like a champ now. When the ignition on and engine not running both the low pressure and charge lights are on. Once engine is running, the charge light goes out and I get around 14.6 volts across the battery terminals.
Just waiting on my new T-connector pigtail to come in, and I'll swap out the original one and complete the wire loom.
Hope some will find this useful in the future. Oh and the alternator came with unlimited lifetime warranty.
Here's external vs. internal:
They are virtually identical. Even the little booklets are clearly from the same place:
There is no need to change the wiring on that little T-connector on the alternator.
The N terminal (labeled S for Sensor on the new alternator), goes to 12V from the ignition.
The F terminal (labeled L for Lamp on the new alternator), goes to the Charge Light.
To accomplish both of the above, all you have to do is to cut the connector off the old regulator and then jumper a couple of the pins together like this:
N is jumped to IG to provide 12V to the Sensor input on the new alternator.
F is jumped to L which allows the Lamp signal from the new alternator to control the charge lamp in the dashboard.
Works like a champ now. When the ignition on and engine not running both the low pressure and charge lights are on. Once engine is running, the charge light goes out and I get around 14.6 volts across the battery terminals.
Just waiting on my new T-connector pigtail to come in, and I'll swap out the original one and complete the wire loom.
Hope some will find this useful in the future. Oh and the alternator came with unlimited lifetime warranty.
