Ford 1710 cab heater, gives me stitches

[yorT]

I bought this 1710 with the cab heater in it. The location of the heater is in a BAD spot. If I hit a large bump or stop suddenly I smash my head into the corner of the heater. I want to remount it where I do not get injured however I’m not sure where. I use the heater in the fall, winter and early spring. It doesn’t blow air so I’m assuming it’s some type of gravity/ pressure feed heating system that’s ran through the engine coolant to make the heat. Any suggestions on locations or maybe a new heater that actually blows warm air on my cold body when I get to work in the elements

 

[bird dogger]

It looks like there's wiring going into the upper front right corner of the heater in your middle picture? Must be for a fan.....that maybe has quit working for some reason? It's hard to imagine that large a box
with a heater core inside without a fan for air circulation. How hard would it be to drop the heater box for
inspection and checking out the fan's operation? You may find the fan just needs some TLC and a little oil on the shafts.

I installed a Jegs heater in my home made cab for my B2650 and it'll have me in shirt sleeves blowing snow when it's -25°F (without the wind chill). This is what I bought: Jegs 555-70601
It's plumbed in with just 3/8" hose that replaces the small water pump's bypass hose. There was no
need to run any larger size hoses to the heater. A couple of small adapter fittings converted the 3/8" hose
to 1/2" right at the heater location for hooking up to the heater's 1/2' fittings.

 

[chander]

Here is another option. Amazon.com: New AH464 Universal Cab Heater 12V Truck Bus Van Compact Size : Automotive

 

[mikester]

Find a lower profile heater?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/heater-defroster/category/410-010-005-005

You can always mount it on the roof and use ducts.

 

[yorT]

It looks like there's wiring going into the upper front right corner of the heater in your middle picture? Must be for a fan.....that maybe has quit working for some reason? It's hard to imagine that large a box
with a heater core inside without a fan for air circulation. How hard would it be to drop the heater box for
inspection and checking out the fan's operation? You may find the fan just needs some TLC and a little oil on the shafts.

I installed a Jegs heater in my home made cab for my B2650 and it'll have me in shirt sleeves blowing snow when it's -25°F (without the wind chill). This is what I bought: Jegs 555-70601
It's plumbed in with just 3/8" hose that replaces the small water pump's bypass hose. There was no
need to run any larger size hoses to the heater. A couple of small adapter fittings converted the 3/8" hose
to 1/2" right at the heater location for hooking up to the heater's 1/2' fittings.

Thanks Bird Dogger. The wires you referred to are coming off the wiper motor and splits into fingers. I think one’s for a thermostat they mounted to control the heat and the other does for to the fan in the box. I haven’t dismantled anything yet but might do it while I have the tractor tore apart replacing the water pump.
Thanks for info and link, I appreciate it,
Troy

 

[yorT]

Find a lower profile heater?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/heater-defroster/category/410-010-005-005

You can always mount it on the roof and use ducts.

A lower profile heater that I can mount on the top of the cab or somewhere else that does not harm me, is exactly what I am looking for.
Thanks for the link, I appreciate it

 

[bird dogger]

Thanks Bird Dogger. The wires you referred to are coming off the wiper motor and splits into fingers. I think one’s for a thermostat they mounted to control the heat and the other does for to the fan in the box. I haven’t dismantled anything yet but might do it while I have the tractor tore apart replacing the water pump.
Thanks for info and link, I appreciate it,
Troy

Aah, that makes sense. I saw what looks like a louver in that corner and figured that there had to be a fan in there somewhere. Most likely you could get that unit working again. But if you're looking to clean up the install and prevent possible head injuries....a new heater might be the way to go!

All kinds of sizes, shapes, outputs etc. with the different manufacturer's models. Find one or two different spots you'd really like to put a heater in your cab and then go looking for the right model to fit. If it wouldn't extend to far out to be in the way....you could even mount one on the outside of the cab and just have the side with the ducts protrude into your cab space......side mount or roof mounted.

If you're going to clean things up with a new install you could also install (if there isn't one already) a heater bypass valve. That way you could shut off coolant flow to the heater in the summer and back again in the winter without any fiddling with hoses.

 

[Williy]

Perhaps you can mount what you have on the ceiling
cutting the box down to make it smaller??
Have the heater facing down instead of facing you???
If the bearings are sealed you can lift the skin and repack
them

willy

 

[Dave M7040]

When a heater is mounted above the high point of the normal engine cooling system it is difficult to establish and maintain circulation.

If this were a residential hydronic heating system, I would be reminding you that it is the system fill pressure which lifts fluid to the high point not the energy from the pump.

I know there are tractors with ceiling mount units............. These have been engineered by someone who understand the physics involved and has features that manage this. This installation is clearly not one of these.

For you, apart from getting the fan running, I would suggest making a place to add coolant at the top of the cab and leave the rad cap untouched.

Any air in the system will make its way to the high point and create an air lock. By filling at the high point you can give any air a place to exit the system.

Dave M7040

 

[yorT]

When a heater is mounted above the high point of the normal engine cooling system it is difficult to establish and maintain circulation.

If this were a residential hydronic heating system, I would be reminding you that it is the system fill pressure which lifts fluid to the high point not the energy from the pump.

I know there are tractors with ceiling mount units............. These have been engineered by someone who understand the physics involved and has features that manage this. This installation is clearly not one of these.

For you, apart from getting the fan running, I would suggest making a place to add coolant at the top of the cab and leave the rad cap untouched.

Any air in the system will make its way to the high point and create an air lock. By filling at the high point you can give any air a place to exit the system.

Dave M7040

Thanks for the information Dave. I understand what you are saying and now,I’m thinking it might be good to dismantle what was existing and start from scratch bringing the heating unit (l probably look for an updated one) that I can mount even or slightly lower or higher the the rad cap.