Ford 1720 injection pump adjustment bolts

[bencrawf]

I just finished a complete overhaul on a ford 1720 with less than 600 hours on it due to a mouse getting by the air filter and getting urine down in the engine. Had to get it bored and put on 40 thousandths over sized Pistons and piston rings. I have a couple of questions.

First is I took off the governor screws off the block so they wouldn't get harmed in transit, I marked with a marker that washed off when I washed everything. I can not find anything on how to adjust these bolts properly. I am about to stumble my way through it. As of now the low throttle setting kills the engine and the high end hits 2300 which should be 2700 ish according to my friends 1720.

Secondly, the engine doesn't seem to be broke in, getting white/blueish smoke from exhaust and drops of oil coming from the crankcase breather. I am probably going to adjust crankcase breather elbow to rub slightly up to allow oil to fall back to the rocker assembly. I have very little blowby, hard to feel, and little vapor coming from oil fill tube. The engine starts really easy. Is this from the rings still not being mated to the cylinder? Maybe getting the high end correct will help it break in.

Side note, I am a teacher and have done this rebuild in the school shop with the school bus mechanic. I got to pull a bus around the building with the tractor in hopes of breaking the engine in quicker. It seems it may have gotten better. Had to be humorous for the students to see their teacher pulling a bus on a compact tractor.

Thanks for any help and for reading my scatter brained post.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Why cant you adjust the screws?? in for the low idle and out for the hi..
Another thing to check is the placement of the control rack on the pump.. are you SURE you got the pin in the correct location on the rack in the engine.. you may have missed it.. seen it happen.

 

[bencrawf]

I will post a picture of the pump once I have enough posts to post pictures. I believe it is impossible to mess up control rack placement. Also the screw are not labeled as to which is hi and low. I heard somewhere one adjusts the range and the other adjusts how fast it gets back to the set rpm's after it is put under a load. I will also post a picture of the bolts that are located lower on the block from where the pump bolts into the block.

 

[bencrawf]

Here are the bolts I got. This is a picture I robbed from google image but is the same set up I have.


Here is how the pump looks again another robbed photo of one that is damaged. Mine is not damaged this was the only photos I have of one not already bolted in.

 

[thepumpguysc]

You see the throttle shaft, its splined.. it can go on about 12 different ways..
Did you have it off?? IF you hadn't moved the screws and it dies at idle and low at the top end, move the lever and leave the screws alone.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The screw w/ 1 nut is the low idle, the top is hi.. the top is a double screw w/ an additional spring inside of it, for torque back up..
Leave the screws alone and try to move the throttle on the splines 1st. ONLY go 1 spline at a time..

 

[bencrawf]

The shaft was never off. I know it is splined but the governor linkage only can hook to the rack one way. To adjust the rack all three plunger assemblies would have to come out the back to move the splines in relation to the gears.

I did have the governor screws removed before taking the block to the machine shop to get it bored out. I put paint marker marks on them but was stupid and ran it through the parts washer and when I opened the washer after it finished running, the marks were non existent.

 

[1720BlueBell]

bencrawf, were you able to solve your low and high idle issues? If so, how?
Thanks. High idle on my 1720 is 2400 rpm

 

[bencrawf]

I thought I had it closer but to get the high end higher, I lost it being able to recover/spring back to high end once being bogged down. I guess I need to try adjusting it some more.

It seems like there would be a step by step to getting the adjustment correct.