Ford 1720 start problem- Ignition Switch Change and tie rod ends change out

[neverfailyou]

Problem: My Ford 1720 wouldn't crank. Power was to glow plugs in ignition switch Pre-heat and start position but nothing to starter solenoid in start position. Jumpered starter solenoid and engine would start. Troubleshooting further and with the help of TBN threads, I diagnosed a defective ignition switch. A new switch cost crazy prices upwards in the 100 dollars range so i wired in a momentary-on switch across solenoid and operated like that for most of the summer. The solenoid-starter would hang-up every so often and would leave me stranded. I used it like that until it stranded me one-time too many. Time to bite the bullet and get a new switch.

Solution: After much web searching I bought from Weavers Compact Tractor LLC in Shippensburg, PA. They sent me a replacement switch in an orange Kubota box for 43 dollars. (I also needed tie rod ends which they also had. Their web site was not fully developed and did not list the tie rod ends so I had to call to order.) The ignition switch was a direct replacement and even had identically labeled screw terminals labeled. All I had to do was gently pull back the protective heat shrink from the terminals to re-install. It took longer to type this post than wire-in and replace the switch (well...almost!).

I hope this helps somebody keeping these great tractors alive and working.
View attachment Ignition switch_20200917.pdf

 

[JC-jetro]

Problem: My Ford 1720 wouldn't crank. Power was to glow plugs in ignition switch Pre-heat and start position but nothing to starter solenoid in start position. Jumpered starter solenoid and engine would start. Troubleshooting further and with the help of TBN threads, I diagnosed a defective ignition switch. A new switch cost crazy prices upwards in the 100 dollars range so i wired in a momentary-on switch across solenoid and operated like that for most of the summer. The solenoid-starter would hang-up every so often and would leave me stranded. I used it like that until it stranded me one-time too many. Time to bite the bullet and get a new switch.

Solution: After much web searching I bought from Weavers Compact Tractor LLC in Shippensburg, PA. They sent me a replacement switch in an orange Kubota box for 43 dollars. (I also needed tie rod ends which they also had. Their web site was not fully developed and did not list the tie rod ends so I had to call to order.) The ignition switch was a direct replacement and even had identically labeled screw terminals labeled. All I had to do was gently pull back the protective heat shrink from the terminals to re-install. It took longer to type this post than wire-in and replace the switch (well...almost!).

I hope this helps somebody keeping these great tractors alive and working.
View attachment 669988

Awsome, Good reference. Same as you I had issue instead with my Ford 1700 Steering box, Got it reworked, repaired just for it to work 1/2 way decent. It was not convenient, the oem box costed about $900. After much reserch was able to source a Kubota steering box, functionally the same, same bolt holes but different in casting. worked the details out, a bit of welding, fabbing bracket and stuff an now I have a brand new steering column that works great for about $250. Like you , sweat equity and perseverance pays.