Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment

   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment #1  

sruman

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
102
Location
Shermans Dale, PA
Tractor
Ford 1910
So, I'm working on my tractor because there a pretty good knock when I first start up the tractor. Once it's warmed up for a minute or so, it goes away. My natural assumption was that the valves needed adjusted. I bought the tractor about 2 years ago, and I haven't touch this maintenance. I finally decided to adjust the valves and see if I can eliminate the 'knock' at start up.
I touch off the valve cover. I manually cranked the engine until the valves were seated. What I found was, with the feeler .012 gauge, was that I couldn't get in. Is it possible that the previous owner tightened them down too tight before I purchased?
I have a couple of questions:
* The fact that it knocks then settles out in about 30-45 sec's, is that an indictor that the valves are too tight?
* Should I even be worried about it if it stops in a minute (or less)? Are the valves good to go?
* Would you recommend that I go ahead a re-adjust the valves? Or is this natural with diesels?
* Would there be any other issue at start up that I should be looking at other than the valve adjustment?

I thought that the "knock" was coming from the injector pump at first, but then I started focusing on the valves and now I'm not sure. It could just all be in head, but I was looking for a little direction before I start adjusting things for little or no improvement.

What are your thoughts? Are there other 'tests' or things to look at for diagnosis?
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment #2  
It could be a lot of things. Without actually hearing it, loose valve tappets usually make more of a clicking sound. Knocks can be caused by pre-detonation, rod journals or wrist pins, piston obstruction, and or head/head gasket leakage. The valves should be adjusted cold and it is better they be a bit loose.
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It could be a lot of things. Without actually hearing it, loose valve tappets usually make more of a clicking sound. Knocks can be caused by pre-detonation, rod journals or wrist pins, piston obstruction, and or head/head gasket leakage. The valves should be adjusted cold and it is better they be a bit loose.



Ok. I've adjusted the valves back to spec. They were very tight, and I couldn't get a feeler gauge in without re-adjusting. They are now good to go.
It didn't fix the start up knock, but again, it goes away after a 1/2 min or so. It does seem to knock a little bit more at lower RPM's, and sounds like it runs a little smoother at mid - high rpms. If anyone has other suggestions, or some other tests that I could do, let me know.

One specific question that I have is, how do you test the oil pump?
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment #4  
The tractor came with an oil indicator light. If you want to test the actual pressure you can get a "dash mount" oil gauge "kit" at Autozone for about $20. It comes with the metric thread compression fitting to put in place of the oil sender for testing. Then you can put the sender of the idiot light back in when you finish.
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I may do that. The light on the dash doesn't work. If I'm getting oil through the bleeder holes on the rockers, does that mean the pump is working. Where is it "pumping" oil to?
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment #6  
I may do that. The light on the dash doesn't work. If I'm getting oil through the bleeder holes on the rockers, does that mean the pump is working. Where is it "pumping" oil to?

Yes it does. The push rods are hollow. Oil comes up from the block through the lifters (or cam followers if you prefer) and lubes the rocker arms and tappet face.
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment #7  
A knock that goes away that quickly may just be piston slap. During combustion, the piston is forced against one side of the cylinder (downward pressure, angle of rod). Until the piston warms up and grows, there may be extra clearance to make that knock.
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Yeah, that makes sense, and from what I can tell, is probably the issue. One last question: how much oil should flow through the push rods? Regardless of my engine idle its roughly the same. during the valve adjustment, I thought that when I was completed, and tested it, that as I revved up engine, it would squirt out, with some pressure. But that is not the case. Should it simply "flow" out, and is that normal?
 
   / Ford 1910 Valve Adjustment #9  
Flowing out is normal and plenty.
 

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