Ford 1910 valve clearances?

   / Ford 1910 valve clearances? #1  

Jeff Gammon

New member
Joined
Apr 9, 2014
Messages
12
Location
Paragould Arkansas
Tractor
1910 Ford
I have a 1910 ford tractor. Could anyone help me with the valve clearances and the procedure to do it?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
   / Ford 1910 valve clearances? #2  
Clearance is 0.012" on both intake and exhaust according to my I&T book. First step is to disable the injectors, if your throttle lever stop on shutoff thats fine, if not set it to idle and remove the glow plugs. Removing the plugs will also make the engine easier to rotate. You will need to remove the valve cover which on my 1210 requires some fanagling. Once off you need to rotate the crackshaft so that the valves you're checking are on the compression stroke. You can rotate it by the fan belt, put a wrench on the crank or if you've got a manual put it in it's top gear and give it a push. You can also try hitting the starter but that can be tricky. You'll see one valve actuate and then another. Once the trailing valve has closed rotate a bit past that and check them. You loosen the nuts on the ends of the rockers (above the valve) and slip 0.012" feeler gage between the valve stem and rocker and using a screw driver tighten the bolt till you can just feel some drag when sliding the feeler gage. Take some time and play with the feeler gage, there is a distinctive feel when the gap is correct. Hold the bolt steady with the screw driver and tighten the nut, check to make sure the gage still feels the same and move on. Once you're done reassemble, bleed the injectors a bit if needed and fire it up. You should hear a tiny bit of valve clatter.
 
   / Ford 1910 valve clearances?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Stumpi. Where is the best place to buy a valve cover gasket for this little rig
 
   / Ford 1910 valve clearances? #4  
On my machine it's just a oring in a groove. As long as it's still flexable and not cracked I'd leave it alone. The intake manifold is part of the valve cover on mine and its sealed to the valve cover by a second oring which butts up against the first on the ends. These joints need some black rtv to seal. Mine was leaking a bit so I scraped it out, cleaned up the oring and assembled it with fresh rtv. As for the oring you could get a preformed one from a New Holland dealer or Messicks but I would try a small hardware store like an ACE or something. They should have spools of oring material, match the siz,e stuff it in the groove and go. If it doesn't work you're out a few bucks at worst.
 

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