ford 3400 tractor loader problem

[Thor22]

Ford 3400 tractor loader problem

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My loader moves slower than I thing it should. I had bubbles in the fluid after running it. It looked to me that it may have had water in it. I read that you could put rubbing alcohol in it and run it a little, then empty it to help take the water out with the oil. I did this, but it still looks like I still have bubbles and maybe water still in it. I've noticed the loader always runs slower in cold weather. Today with the temp a little below freezing I started the tractor and tried to raise the loader. It took 4 to 5 minutes before the loader would raise and then quite slow. I used utf fluid when I put new in. I wonder if 10-30 would work better? Oh when I added the fluid it took only about 2 gal. Does that sound right? Again I have a 3400 tractor, but I don't know the right model of the loader. I also read that a leak in a return line could cause bubbles in the hyd. fluid. I tightened all clamps and didn't see any leaks. That's all I can think of for now. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

 

[RickB]

Oil reservoir in the loader frame? Probably a plugged filter, low oil level, collapsing or delaminating suction hose section. Filter is located in the LH loader mast, attached to the inside of the outlet fitting casting. probably hasn't been changed in 20 or 30 years.

 

[matoyan]

I asked a neighbor of mine that had the same issue and he replaced the filter and fluid and cleaned out the vent for the reservoir and it has worked a lot better since then. He also checked to make sure none of the seals on the cylinders were leaking and sucking in air. I hope this helps.

 

[Thor22]

Thanks for the help. I could not find a filter or screen on this loader, so I looked all over and finally found out that it was a Ford series 776B loader. It did not have a filter or strainer on it. I do not have any leaks at the cylinders. I did have one start at a couple of quick disconnects. I replace those, but have not put on the new filter I bought yet. I have also replace the fluid twice. Hopefully the loader will work good after putting on the filter. I'm also going to run rear remotes off the valve for the loader. I will put shut off for the bucket when doing this. Thanks again

 

[J_J]

Have you put any gages on the tractor and determined any pressures?

If the fluid is still not the right color, you could have water in the fluid and therefore ice under freezing conditions.

That fluid needs to get hot enough to heat the fluid and vaporize the water/alcohol mix..

If you have any air bubbles, they are most likely caused by a suction leak or cavitation. They should dissipate overnight.

 

[Thor22]

Thanks J.J.. I have changed all the suction hoses and don't believe I have any leaks anywhere. Drained and refilled the fluid twice. I had a quick disconnect start leaking, but couldn't get to it right a way, so lose more fluid. I put new ones one, but have not tried it yet, because I want to put on a new filter assembly and add some rear remotes before I add anymore fluid. I'm going to do this wed. or thur. and may also just add a pressure gauge to it at that time and then try it out. Thanks again

 

[J_J]

Thor22 ,

What do you mean about shut off for the bucket?

How do you propose to install the remote valves.

 

[Thor22]

I was going to put a pipe tee on each line from the valve going to the bucket. One port of the tee would go to a hose which goes down to a mounting bracket I made that fits on top of the rear axle, which clamp in two half in pipes that are about two feet long. Quick disconects will be attached to them. The ball shut offs will be add to the other end of the tee headed to the loader bucket. Pressure will always be going to the rear remote, but if the ball valve shut offs work the bucket shouldn't move when I'm using the remote.

 

[J_J]

I am not sure what you are trying to do, but in an open center hyd system, with all valves in neutral, fluid must flow.

Do you have a loader valve?

Make sure the pump has a relief valve somewhere to protect the pump if you just happen to shut off the hyd flow.

You can direct the fluid anywhere as long as it can flow.

 

[Thor22]

Thanks J.J. for the advice. I am planning to put a tee between the valve that controls the bucket tilting and the cylinder. One port of the tee will go back to the rear remote that I'm going to install to use on a wheel disc. With the shut off in the other port which will be able to shut off the tilting of the bucket when I'm using the disc. I am thinking that if I would accidentally move the valve lever with the shut off closed and the remote not hooked up that it wouldn't be any different than holding the lever all the way one way or the other when the cylinder is all the way extended. I mean I wouldn't do it for long because the rpm's let you know right a way that it's not moving. Thanks again. Thor