Ford 340B leaking differential

   / Ford 340B leaking differential #1  

Mudmuckandgrease

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2014
Messages
10
Location
California
Tractor
BCS 850 walk behind tractor, Ditch Witch J20, Ford 340B, Ford 9N, MF TO-35
My mechanical experience has only been automotive tractor maintenance is new to me. I have a Ford 340B (1985) industrial tractor which seems to have an oil leak from the right wheel, and I'm hoping to gain advice from someone with similar experience with this same tractor.
Ford Tractor Right Wheel leak.png

The wheel has weights and I'm thinking it could weigh well over 300 pounds. My neighbor has a Case with a loader, and he will bring it up to help with removing and replacing the wheel.

Question 1: Will I need to jack both rear wheels off the ground to remove the right wheel shaft?

I've been studying a parts list for the differential and the pictures don't show how the shaft attaches to the housing. The outside surface has three holes which reminds me of the kind of wrench I use to remove discs from my angle grinder only a lot bigger

Shaft.png

Question 2: Does the shaft screw into the differential housing? And if so, does it unscrew to the left?

If this screws into the housing, I will have to fabricate a wrench using round stock to fit in the outer holes. That, and a long pipe should work for me.
What puzzles me, is the position of the brake assembly. It is located deep into the differential housing, which would put it inside the oil reserve. The tractor brakes very well; so I don't believe it is contaminated with oil. I can't seem to locate any other seals in the following diagram other than the large 'O' ring (#8) which doesn't appear to be leaking as viewed from the outside.
diagram.png


Question 3: I ordered part #13 and 11. Are these the only seals I need to worry about? I'm not sure how the brake assembly functions inside the housing. I'm hoping I won't need to know, for now.

Why do you suppose they put two oil ports in the differential?
two ports.png


One more question: I see that the transmission oil has water in it; so I will need to drain and replace the oil. The crankcase oil was fine. The oil port located on the top of the case has a strange little whistle like thing which fits into the port's bolt. What is this thing for? It is a good way for water to get inside.

transmition oil port.png
Thanks for any advice you can offer.
 
   / Ford 340B leaking differential #2  
Drain oil from the diffhousing and remove trumpethousing. Let the housing stand with the big side to the to and remove the brakes and then the planetry gears. Now cut the seal 13 and lift the housing off the shaft. Clean all and install the new seal. Assemble all and make sure your preload on the bearings is correct . Now reinstall assembly . Now by using two bars press the seal against the housing and curl the seal at 6 or 8 places around the housing. Refill with clean oil .
 
   / Ford 340B leaking differential
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Drain oil from the diffhousing and remove trumpethousing. Let the housing stand with the big side to the to and remove the brakes and then the planetry gears. Now cut the seal 13 and lift the housing off the shaft. Clean all and install the new seal. Assemble all and make sure your preload on the bearings is correct . Now reinstall assembly . Now by using two bars press the seal against the housing and curl the seal at 6 or 8 places around the housing. Refill with clean oil .

Oh, I was hoping I wouldn't have to tare the whole differential apart just to get at that seal, but I think I can see where taking that shaft out would leave all the other parts unsupported. Is there a particular problem with reinstalling the bearings that I should know about? I'll have to order the large O'ring.
Thanks for your response.
 
   / Ford 340B leaking differential #5  
O-ring can be used again . Order brakerodseal aswell.
That assembly can only be stripped from the inside . Remowe wheel...mudguard and floorboard...loosen brakerod....remove housing....
 
   / Ford 340B leaking differential #6  
At inner end of shaft is shims ....add or remove shims to get correct preload on bearings. Shaft should not be floating around when installed correctly( in and out movement)
 

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