Ford 4100 diverter valve- is one type better than another?

Pete O · Oct 30, 2017

I'm still wading my way through the refurbishment of my old Ford 4100, all of the hydraulic system inside the casing and the top cover are reassembled. I've come to stripping down the diverter valve to clean it out and renew O-rings etc and found that the housing is cracked at the lugs where it is bolted down onto the top cover. Here's a couple of photos of the valve, you can see in the photo of the underside where the two front mounting holes are broken through.

Obviously it will be quite a task to repair the casting where it is broken.
A replacement valve of the same type sells for around $700
Ford 4610 Valve - D9NNB950BB

There is a different type of diverter valve available for around $240. This link shows the type, (part number 3 in the photo) available from several different suppliers and my local dealer has quoted me about the same price.
Bare Co - Ford - Hydraulic Valves & Parts

I'm wondering if there is any particular advantage of one type over the other, particularly with regard to whether it is worth the effort to try and save the old valve rather than replace it with the cheaper type. Buying a new $700 valve is not an option but I could justify $240 for a new valve rather than a time-consuming resurrection job on the old one if it's going to do the same job.

Pete O · Oct 31, 2017

I seem to have answered my own question; from what I can find out it seems that the cheaper diverter valve is only suitable for operating a single-acting cylinder.

deanocraft · Oct 31, 2017

The one cracked part that has the broken piece still attached could be repaired by brazing. The missing part would need to somehow be fabricated, but could also be brazed on. Brazing is not terribly difficult. I have no experience as to what it would take to rehab that valve though!

Pete O · Oct 31, 2017

Thanks Deanocraft, agreed I can braze the existing broken piece back in and make an insert for the missing piece, more time-consuming is getting the bottom surface flat again as it has a machined face and bolts down to another machined face, O-rings to seal the oil passageways so very dependent on a close machined interface, if a welded part is proud of the surface the valve won't seal and if it is even a little way below the surface it will just snap off again when the bolts are done up as it is quite thin. I have the equipment to machine it but the setup is always very time-consuming. I plan on trying something a little different and less time-consuming, I'll post photos when it's done rather than a wordy explanation now.