Ford 4610 rear lift arms stuck

[furzeboy]

Hi there.
I have been renovating a Ford 4610 and after completing all the engine and electrics refurbs I drained and replaced hydraulic oil, filters and rebuilt the control valve with new Ford seals and 'O' rings. This tractor has taken alot of time to get back into good condition and I am nearly ready to use it.
My problem is that the rearlift arms are fixed in the 'up' position and will not respond to any controls at all. I can feel the pump is working because when the engine is turned on the linkages immediately tension up but will not go down even with the engine off. Oil levels are fine, but nothing on the draft controls makes a difference or by moving the hydraulic control lever to the from hydaulic or rear hydraulics. PTO is fine.
I have read all the manuals several times and rechecked my O rings and seals, all are still fine and the control valve moves properly. I'm not great at hydraulics can anyone suggest how I could remedy the fault. Do I need to bleed anything after changing the hydraulic oil? There is a cab fitted to access to the main hydraulics is a problem but I dont think that is the fault. Before I 'serviced' the hydralics the rear arms were working fine.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[RNeumann]

I’m the last guy to ask regarding the internals - but with the drift control down (and say the machine off) can you stand on those arms and get them to lower? Typically a 3 point doesn’t have hydraulic down pressure and instead relies on the gravity of the attachment. I’d also verify it doesn’t have a flow control type valve that controls the rate it drops. A lot of newer machines have a valve by/below the seat and if that is closed or nearly closed it won’t allow the arms to lower.

2 SWAGs that would be easy “fixes”. Beyond that I’ll sit back and learn with you.

 

[furzeboy]

I知 the last guy to ask regarding the internals - but with the drift control down (and say the machine off) can you stand on those arms and get them to lower? Typically a 3 point doesn稚 have hydraulic down pressure and instead relies on the gravity of the attachment. I壇 also verify it doesn稚 have a flow control type valve that controls the rate it drops. A lot of newer machines have a valve by/below the seat and if that is closed or nearly closed it won稚 allow the arms to lower.

2 SWAGs that would be easy 吐ixes? Beyond that I値l sit back and learn with you.

Thanks for replying. I did have some problems with the Auxilary Service Control linkages connected to the flow control valve, they had been seized up but all is now freed and seems to be operating properly. I have tried all your suggestions and you have added some clarity about why the arms dont naturally drop when the machine is off. They are still stobbornly refusing to move. I may have to take the top off and see if the arms have become jammed. I am suspecting the pressure relief valve. I'll see how I get on.

If anyone else has come across this sort of problem I would like to hear fom you.

 

[oldnslo]

The relief valve should not prevent the arms from lowering. Its purpose is to prevent over loading the 3 point.

The control valve should provide a flow path from the lift cylinder to tank. I believe this is all internal in the casting.

You may have to pull the cover to see if something is either out of adjustment or binding.

 

[RNeumann]

If it is a standard 3 Point with no hydraulic down pressure their should be little preventing the arms from dropping with the machine off. Even if it was hydraulic after a few days they would at least drift down a bit. I’m guessing something in the internals is bound up a bit.
A 3 pt is designed to handle several thousand pounds of weight plus the bouncing and abuse. I’d be tempted to put a long pipe (say 8’) on the arm/arms and put my weight on that. Beyond that you will be tearing into the back of the case.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hi there.
I have been renovating a Ford 4610 and after completing all the engine and electrics refurbs I drained and replaced hydraulic oil, filters and rebuilt the control valve with new Ford seals and 'O' rings. This tractor has taken alot of time to get back into good condition and I am nearly ready to use it.
My problem is that the rearlift arms are fixed in the 'up' position and will not respond to any controls at all. I can feel the pump is working because when the engine is turned on the linkages immediately tension up but will not go down even with the engine off. Oil levels are fine, but nothing on the draft controls makes a difference or by moving the hydraulic control lever to the from hydaulic or rear hydraulics. PTO is fine.
I have read all the manuals several times and rechecked my O rings and seals, all are still fine and the control valve moves properly. I'm not great at hydraulics can anyone suggest how I could remedy the fault. Do I need to bleed anything after changing the hydraulic oil? There is a cab fitted to access to the main hydraulics is a problem but I dont think that is the fault. Before I 'serviced' the hydralics the rear arms were working fine.
Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm not familiar with the details of the 4610 hitch control but for the hitch to drop, the lift cylinder, the control lever must be full down, the drop rate control must be at least partially open and the control valve should be positioned to port the lift cylinder to the sump to drain the fluid out of it. Are you sure you adjusted the control linkage properly?

You also might want to post this in the Ford/New Holland Forum.

 

[furzeboy]

OK, its all sorted. During the restoration the 3 point linkages had all become seize - solid! There are no greasing nipples on these bearings, it obviously relies on regular use to keep things moving but having stood around for many months they sieized. Eventually I found an Ford engineer and after discussion we were prepared to lift the top off and reseal all the valves etc. but when we took the arms off all 4 of teh linkage points that move when the control arm moves were locked solid. It took 6 hours of hammers and the old blue gas spanner to free up. Having taken off the arms we took the top off the control valve and tested the hydraulic pump, oil spurted out all over the cab roof, so that worked. We greased all the 'bearings' and I will keep an eye on making sure I keep up the lubrication. I was very surprised by what happened but at least my control valve refurb and new seals was not at fault and I coulnt have done this on my own. Thanks guys for your advise, the arms work brilliantly now and I mowed my cider orchard, happy days.