ford 555B starting problems

[jbeau]

I have a 1987 ford 555B.Thought battery was dead because motor would crank over about two times.
Changed battery.Found out later alt. wasn't working so I changed that.
Still the same results when I tried to start it.Didn't think starter was problem but I put a new one on anyway.Didn't help.Changed battery terminal ends,ran jumper cables from battery to starter still cranks twice and acts like battery is dead.Tested battery with load tester comes out fine.Battery has 12.7 volts on voltmeter.
I guess the only thing I haven't touched is the ignition switch.Any ideas?

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a 1987 ford 555B.Thought battery was dead because motor would crank over about two times.
Changed battery.Found out later alt. wasn't working so I changed that.
Still the same results when I tried to start it.Didn't think starter was problem but I put a new one on anyway.Didn't help.Changed battery terminal ends,ran jumper cables from battery to starter still cranks twice and acts like battery is dead.Tested battery with load tester comes out fine.Battery has 12.7 volts on voltmeter.
I guess the only thing I haven't touched is the ignition switch.Any ideas?

Did this just start happening after a long period of normal operation?

Have you checked the ground connection to the chasis? What size are your cables? They should be big not like those on a car.You could have internal corrosion that causes high resistance in the cables from the battery to the starter motor. You can't see it from the outside of the cables. Try checking the cable resistance. It should be very low- a few ohms.

 

[jbeau]

Did this just start happening after a long period of normal operation?

Have you checked the ground connection to the chasis? What size are your cables? They should be big not like those on a car.You could have internal corrosion that causes high resistance in the cables from the battery to the starter motor. You can't see it from the outside of the cables. Try checking the cable resistance. It should be very low- a few ohms.

Tractor had been starting fine for 8 years.Just started this last 10 days.
I replaced both battery cables today.Still the same results.Engine turns over twice then battery acts like its dead.But its reading 12.7 volts at battery.
If I put charger on it for 3 or 4 minutes it will start up fine.And start fine for the rest of the day.Only when I leave it overnite it acts up.
It doesn't ground to chassis.Ground cable goes from battery to lug on starter.I have cleaned every connection I can find.
Don't know if ignition should be my next move or not.Thanks for your fast reply.This is really aggravating.

 

[don45640]

Is your solenoid separate or incorporated on the starter motor? If it's separate,it could have internal corrosion,and not supplying enough amperage(current) to the starter motor. It would still read 12+ volts,but the amps would be low enough to cause motor to starve for current. don-ohio ^)

 

[jbeau]

Is your solenoid separate or incorporated on the starter motor? If it's separate,it could have internal corrosion,and not supplying enough amperage(current) to the starter motor. It would still read 12+ volts,but the amps would be low enough to cause motor to starve for current. don-ohio ^)

The solenoid is part of the starter.The starter is new also.I know even new parts some times don't work properly.....

 

[jimmysisson]

So does it turn at good speed twice then stop, or grind slowly then give up? And the symptom was the same before and after the starter swap? If you jump the solenoid terminal on the starter will it crank more than twice? Something is odd here, for sure.
Jim

 

[boggen]

on the ford 555c TLB (tractor loader backhoe) i have, there is awe, i want to say... 4 relays, in same box the fuses are in. and for me all the relays are exact same model / amps / setup. double check the model numbers and see about swapping the relay's around. if anything it would act like a quick test to see if relay for starter is bad.

if i remember correctly there is only a single wire harness connection between dash for (key/ignition, fuse box) that runs out to the engine. i do not remember if wire harness connection is on the right hand side just below the floor board, or if it is the center dash area were steering wheel is.

goto...
Construction Equipment-Backhoes-Mini Excavators-Skid Steers-Pat Kelly-MO
then click on "new holland parts catalog" then type in your model and you can get a part listing with diagrams.

it may only be parts, but may help you locate this or that.

the shop manual, is worth getting, if you have not bought it already.

============
it is winter. ya need to remember a cold battery, = less amps it will produce for starting. more so if tractor itself is cold. and night time is coldest part of a day. if you can crank things up after you get it warmed up. and alternator is charging up battery. perhaps it is way to cold out. i have pulled the battery out (ughs weighs a bunch, and kinda of a pain to pull out / put back in) and brought it inside, just to make sure, i could keep the battery warm, and easier start come morning. even with a "block heater" and thermo start (warms up air/fuel, in the intake manifold) i have had problems getting things started in coldest of days of winter. and had to hook up a battery charger, to help get the engine to crank over in the morning. once everything gets warmed up. and i just turn unit off for say half hour / hour to eat. and get back in all is fine, it is just the bloody cold morning when everything is cold.

 

[jinman]

The quickest way to isolate the problem is to go to the starter and jumper the starter solenoid connection directly to the +12 main cable connection. This bypasses the key switch and all relays to activate the starter. Use a 12 gage wire or larger and just jumper from the big cable to the small solenoid connector. You may get a spark because the solenoid will pull a few amps to engage, but the spark won't be huge. If the starter cranks over with this method, then you have a key switch/relay problem. The starter relay takes the signal from the ignition and and closes the medium high current path to the starter solenoid. The solenoid then closes the high current contacts inside the starter. The starter relay is normally a 30 or 40 amp relay. I had one on my New Holland LB75B with a cracked case that let dirt fill up the relay and keep it from operating. On my TLB, the starter relay was on the firewall in the engine compartment, but that may not be the location on your 555. It may be in the relay box that Ryan mentioned.

 

[jbeau]

I finally got it.It was the battery.It would hold 12.7 volts but when i was cranking it would drop to 3.8 volts.New battery only dropped to 10.8 volts when cranking and fires it right up.Its been a very expensive lesson but I've learned a lot from everyone.

 

[don45640]

Verrrry GOOD! Thanks for posting back and helping us see the solution. don-ohio ^)

 

[jimmysisson]

Good news. So when you said you changed the battery maybe you put a used one in? Cold diesels take big amps. Anyway glad you solved the problem.
Jim