Ford 8n was running about a month ago and I drove it for about half an hour. Now it won't start at all. Took apart carb and cleaned it and everything looks fine but still won't start. Lots of fuel at the carb but when I check plugs after trying to start it they are bone dry. Any suggestions?
Oil & Fuel Ford 8N - won't start, no fuel at plugs
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,588
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Are you getting fuel into the bowl..?? Strainer (#16 in exploded view) going into carb may be plugged if not.
Did you remove the discharge nozzle (#9 in exploded view),and clean it..? There are two tiny cross drilled holes that pick fuel up out of the carb. bowl. If they are plugged, you'll not get any fuel up through the venturi.
Here is a link to CNH, with an exploded view of your carb. Hope it works : Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.
Did you remove the discharge nozzle (#9 in exploded view),and clean it..? There are two tiny cross drilled holes that pick fuel up out of the carb. bowl. If they are plugged, you'll not get any fuel up through the venturi.
Here is a link to CNH, with an exploded view of your carb. Hope it works : Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.
LD1
Epic Contributor
IF you are getting fuel to the carb bowl, that rules out the 3 filter screens on that machine.
Like DJ54 said, you have to make sure the little holes in the carb are all cleaned out.
Also, check for leaking gaskets around the intake manifold. If there is a bad gasket somewhere between the carb and head, it will be sucking air in there instead of through the carb drawing fuel.
Like DJ54 said, you have to make sure the little holes in the carb are all cleaned out.
Also, check for leaking gaskets around the intake manifold. If there is a bad gasket somewhere between the carb and head, it will be sucking air in there instead of through the carb drawing fuel.
drizler
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2007
- Messages
- 718
Those old style bailer bowl fuel valves are a curse on mankind. I bypassed them on two of my tractors after having similar issues on a grand scale. Funny I never had a lick of problem with either after that :thumbsup:. I can see now why they went away. Aside from that and before you do that go for the basics. Leaves and other **** in the gas tank. Stupid crap like that will drive you crazy as it displaces when you dump gas in then settle again later and you have fun all over again. The good news is you can look down in there with a nice bright light and see what's in there and siphon it out usually.
Don't think because those fuel passages in the filter bowl are open that fuel will flow necessarily either. If you see no leaves blocking the inlet take the whole assembly out and give it a good cleaning and blow out with high pressure air. I did have one so goofy that I finally drilled out the center completely and it still acted up till I ditched it in favor of a simple flow through. Try cleaning the passages and filter area, soaking in carb cleaner ect and see how it goes.
Having the silly little sealing ring at the top of the bowl slightly out of place caused me grief on my TO 20 also. It caused some sort of vapor lock so no gas would flow through. I had that happen a few times over the years. This always happened right after I pulled the bowl to clean out gunk.
Another BIGGY the gas cap. Is the internal vent plugged? Try opening of removing the cap and see if it flows. That can happen pretty quietly over time and you won't notice. Don't get fooled into thinking because the fuel bowl is full and clean that fuel is flowing, usually but not necessarily.
What about the carb itself? Pull the drain at the bottom of the bowl and gas should pour right out and keep flowing indefinitely. You can try removing the gas cap, screwing with the strainer, the sealing ring and watch down there and see if it starts or stops flowing so you really know whats going on. If you are getting gas and the carbs not firing try pulling off the rubber intake where it goes into the carb and spray gas into the intake while you start it or some starting fluid. If you can get it running on a spray bottle of gas keep it going and it will likely shake loose whatever is blocking the gas flow going into the carb bowl (if you ares lucky). If not then pull the bowl off the bottom and squirt it down inside and see if cleaning it helps. If not you may have to remove the carb, take it inside and give it a cleaning. It's easy and I never used a book . Also look at the float and make sure if its brass it doesn't have a hole worn in it and if composite it's not fuel soaked.
Somewhere in there you will find your issue. Like I said, POP THE CARB BOWL DRAIN. If you aren't getting gas then you will at least know when you solve it up above when the gas starts running out. It's always a good idea to disconnect the battery when messing with this stuff down there too in case you short across the starter ect. Good Luck.
Don't think because those fuel passages in the filter bowl are open that fuel will flow necessarily either. If you see no leaves blocking the inlet take the whole assembly out and give it a good cleaning and blow out with high pressure air. I did have one so goofy that I finally drilled out the center completely and it still acted up till I ditched it in favor of a simple flow through. Try cleaning the passages and filter area, soaking in carb cleaner ect and see how it goes.
Having the silly little sealing ring at the top of the bowl slightly out of place caused me grief on my TO 20 also. It caused some sort of vapor lock so no gas would flow through. I had that happen a few times over the years. This always happened right after I pulled the bowl to clean out gunk.
Another BIGGY the gas cap. Is the internal vent plugged? Try opening of removing the cap and see if it flows. That can happen pretty quietly over time and you won't notice. Don't get fooled into thinking because the fuel bowl is full and clean that fuel is flowing, usually but not necessarily.
What about the carb itself? Pull the drain at the bottom of the bowl and gas should pour right out and keep flowing indefinitely. You can try removing the gas cap, screwing with the strainer, the sealing ring and watch down there and see if it starts or stops flowing so you really know whats going on. If you are getting gas and the carbs not firing try pulling off the rubber intake where it goes into the carb and spray gas into the intake while you start it or some starting fluid. If you can get it running on a spray bottle of gas keep it going and it will likely shake loose whatever is blocking the gas flow going into the carb bowl (if you ares lucky). If not then pull the bowl off the bottom and squirt it down inside and see if cleaning it helps. If not you may have to remove the carb, take it inside and give it a cleaning. It's easy and I never used a book . Also look at the float and make sure if its brass it doesn't have a hole worn in it and if composite it's not fuel soaked.
Somewhere in there you will find your issue. Like I said, POP THE CARB BOWL DRAIN. If you aren't getting gas then you will at least know when you solve it up above when the gas starts running out. It's always a good idea to disconnect the battery when messing with this stuff down there too in case you short across the starter ect. Good Luck.
oldpilgrim
Elite Member
bad gas?
Did you check the spark?
Dirty/corroded points in distributor?
Points need adjusting?
Bad condenser/coil?
I'm not betting on a fuel delivery problem.
Did you check the spark?
Dirty/corroded points in distributor?
Points need adjusting?
Bad condenser/coil?
I'm not betting on a fuel delivery problem.
drizler
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2007
- Messages
- 718
If it does somehow end up being electrical remember the points and condenser. Better to change all that crap out cap rotor even wires possibly. Even if the points are fine sometimes they get a film on them that just shuts off the conductivity and you can't see it. Some 220 sandpaper across or better yet just toss them so you know what you are dealing with is ruled out. Also first and foremost, fresh gas is the first place to start. Old gas stinks like varnish with a reeky stench and looks a bright yet dark orange. Save it for washing your parts and such. If in doubt toss it out for parts cleaner and save the headaches.
