Freshening Up the Gravel Drive

[Runner]

My drive was starting to get a little thin and rutted, so a freshening up was in order. I had 25 tons of 3/4 inch crushed rock delivered ($18.38/ton) and went after it with the 2520. I had a dropoff where the drive meets the asphalt street, some low areas and areas where the gravel was just too thin.

Also, had a rotten railroad tie along the border that had to be removed and replaced. Used the pallet forks to dig what was left of the old one out and haul the new one up from the pile.

Moved most all of the 25 tons with the loader and will highly recommend the 61 inch bucket for this type of duty. No problem scooping or carrying the weight.

I found that backing up and spreading with the loader was very effective, by just nudging the dump control a little at a time as I backed up. Did a lot of back-blading with the loader which was also very effective.

When it came time for the final dressing, I started with the new KK 6 foot landscape rake. I quickly found out two things about this: I need to make it iMatch compatible and it needs gauge wheels.

After struggling with this for about 20 minutes, I gave up and went for the 5 foot rear blade,for which I already had gauge wheels. This worked perfectly and I was able to just set it about 1 inch off the gravel and drive the 400 feet from end to end of the drive without adjusting or even looking back.

Needless to say, mods are in the near future for the rake.

Also, I have new respect for anyone who deals with these attachments without a quick hitch.

Pics attached.

 

[RobS]

Very nice Runner, that's exactly what I need to do. Did you cost include delivery? Did you do any grading before adding more?

 

[Runner]

Rob,

Yes, that was the delivered price. It came in one, three-axle dump truck. They said that the truck would hold 28 tons max and that anything over 22 tons was considered a "full load" and would get a better price than anything less than that. I didn't ask what the price difference was.

Didn't do any grading beforehand, just added to what was there.

Incidentally, the first pic is of the drive before starting and the low spot is in the middle, at the bottom of the hill on the right hand side. There is a big water puddle there when it rains, so hopefully I got that problem fixed.

I made a big mistake by not listening to the advice of the experts on this board. Last winter, I tried to "re-grade" the drive and take out some of the ruts by just moving around the old gravel.

Eddie, and others on this site advise against this, because it just brings all the mud and other crap to the surface and make a mess. But I had to see for myself.

Anyway, from now on, when I need to do this, I'll just have fresh gravel delivered and fix the bad spots with that.

Live and learn.

 

[dirtworksequip]

Runner, what was it about the rake that you felt you needed gauge wheels?

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[Runner]

Dirt,

I just can't get a smooth surface with any rear attachments without gauge wheels. When the front of the tractor hits some irregularity in the drive, it changes the depth of the rake, or blade, and I wind up with "ripples" in the surface.

This might not be as much of a problem in grading dirt, where it wouldn't be quite as noticeable, but on a driveway, you feel all the imperfections.

I've heard others on here say they can get it smooth without wheels, but I sure can't figure out how. I know you would have to be constantly on the rockshaft lever, and I tried that with limited success, but it gets old FAST.

Having the wheels on there makes it a "set it and forget it" deal.

 

[dirtworksequip]

Runner, my thoughts are once you get your driveway graded so all those imperfections are out the rake should just follow the contours of that grade whether you have wheels or not. I guess if you just want to run around and not look back then gauge wheels are a must. Would this road work for you or is there too many imperfections? Maybe you are just being too critical of your own work.

Sincerely, Dirt

Ignore the blue and yellow lines. They were to show the proper profile,contour and how the water drainage should be.

 

[schmism]

Ive worked about half of the 15 ton ($230) i had delivered the other day into my main parking area. (were it was needed)

I found that backing while dumping does work well, as you said.

I use my 6' rb3572 rear blade (also my heaviest implement) to smooth with.

NO rear gauge wheels but i could see how they would help.

I push as much as drag with my rear blade in gravel. helps do small fine work as it doesnt grab.

If your fighting ripples or simular back up and swing it hard right/left makeing an arc that cuts across your normal direction. (stop at the edge of the drive)

youll be amazed at how smooth a surface you can create with no gauge wheels if you change up the directions often.

Ive had a couple of rains on mine and a weeks worth of driveing. the fines have settled well and left some lumps of larger gravel which are easy to just drop the bladed down to were its bairly touching and push backwards. you can quickly see any low spots/high spots.

 

[johnk]

I'm surprised the roll bar police didn't see your roll bar at half mast..........Driveway looks nice. You're doing a great job.

 

[Runner]

Dirt,

That road looks perfect. I'd take those results any day!

Guys, thanks for the words of encouragement. Makes me want to get the old rake out and try it again. Now that I've got it mostly smooth with the blade, maybe the rake would work better.

Problem is, I JUST got the tractor cleaned up and looking pretty, and put the mower deck on. So I may wait awhile before messing it up again. At least let the rain settle some of the dust.

I was a little surprised at how dusty things got, just from the minor amount of work I did. Makes me cringe a little thinking of all that going through the air filter.

Yeah, rops police. Part of my work was adding gravel to the floor of my pole barn, which included moving all of my three-point equipment out first. Rops had to be down to get in and out, and just never got back up (at least not in time for the pics).

 

[PitbullMidwest]

...There is a big water puddle there when it rains, so hopefully I got that problem fixed.

I made a big mistake... Last winter, I tried to "re-grade" the drive and take out some of the ruts by just moving around the old gravel.

Eddie, and others on this site advise against this, because it just brings all the mud and other crap to the surface and make a mess. But I had to see for myself.

Anyway, from now on, when I need to do this, I'll just have fresh gravel delivered and fix the bad spots with that.

Live and learn.

The regrade or leave the ruts behind argument is like Ford vs Chevy, Stihl vs Husky and will probably never be settled. I would never dump new gravel into/on-top-of ruts and potholes (well, I wouldn't do it again). Water will always follow the path of least resistance and the ruts will keep washing and potholes will keep appearing in the same places until they are brought to the same grade as the surrounding road. That's what scarifiers on a box blade are for, loosen up the top material, fill in the low spots and then spread the rock so that it packs evenly into the road surface.

I've done it this way for 20 years with great success. The biggest mistake I've made is waiting too long between putting down gravel, that's when the ruts and holes appear the fastest.

BTW, based on your pics, you did a great job.