fuel injection idea

electrycmonk · Jul 14, 2019

I've got a theory/question to a problem...the 370D is a gravity feed fuel line to the injector pump on side of engine block.

What if I put a low psi electric pump inline (for test/purging/bleeding the air out) to help with getting fuel to the injectors when i loosen each pipe at the top of each injector to bleed the air out and any thing else that might be in there from sitting for a couple years.

Now to add back story.
Father in law gave us the ole satoh. Over the last few years he & I would talk about what I've tried to do or done to get it running... then finally he offered to take the injector pump to a friend of his to bench test. came back with flying colors.
So I re-installed it with all the original shims. and then removed both fuel pipes and spray carb cleaner thru them to make sure that they were clean and let them air dry on the towel over night. then did the retest.... no luck... killed battery in the process..... life happens and the 370 saw no action for over a year plus.... so now I 'm thinking about this again - now that i have a working tractor to do stuff.... the working tractor has a small - low psi fuel pump to get diesel to the injector pump on the cub cadet.... why not test the 370 with this pump -just to see?????

thoughts?

CausticUrbanCoast · Jul 14, 2019

Not sure why you would need a pump if your injector pump is working.

Usually it is not a problem, even after sitting, just go through your couplings and chase the air out if the injector pump cant pull/push it out.

My thoughts would initially be to check your glow plugs (as this is easy), and since your injector pump was tested, then your injectors may need to be tested/cleaned/replaced if the glow plugs are working.

You are farther ahead than I was with mine, it sat in a collapsed garage for a few years. Took a bit to bleed out the old diesel and convince it to start with one dead glow plug.

crpt2008 · Jul 15, 2019

Hi
While it's perfectly doable. I just question the need for it.
It was designed, built and run with reliability and simplicity in mind.
Since it worked all it's life without it... Why add it now?! ;-)
Adding more elements to the equation doesn't make much sense.

Test/check what's really needed and get a decent battery and/or a battery charger, whatever suits best for the case. ;-)
For what it's worth mine with same gravity feed system, starts at the first touch of the key. :thumbsup:
Cheers

Ilikeurtractor · Jul 16, 2019

The 2-cylinder Mitsubishi engines used in the Satoh and Iseki tractors are notorious for having low compression due to ring and cylinder wear in less time than one might expect or see in engines of later generations. I've never seen or even heard of pump problems due to high hours, mainly because of the former mentioned issue. My experience with injectors is these engines will tolerate a fair amount of deficiencies in spray patterns and pressures as swirl chamber engine designs are less sensitive to these than direct injected diesel engines. Obviously begin with the easy stuff - glow plugs, bleed fuel, and ensure adequate power to the starter. If it does prove to be a low compression issue, a re-ring is usually all it takes which isn't that bad of a job and can be done with the block in place. If you're getting visible smoke out the exhaust while cranking it generally means fuel delivery is not the problem.

electrycmonk · Jul 16, 2019

Thanks y'all the electric pump from tank was just for testing & troubleshooting pourposes. NOT to be a permanent part of the system.... I just want to make sure the fuel is "held at the injector pump" with a little assistance to gravity.

As for the ring/compression issue. I may be a serious-geeky-gearhead and have definately done several engine rebuilds.... a few bowtie, mopar & blue oval V8's & a slant 6, about a dozen Subarus and a few mower engines..... I've tinkered with a few TDI's of our VW's too but, I have not done a in-frame ring job ever..... especially on a diesel.... So, ilikeurtractor what I'd like to do is later this summer ask more questions on this topic....

I'm having too much fun right now with the Cub cadet and the chicken coop. (smirks) life is full of surprises....

Ilikeurtractor · Jul 17, 2019

So to accomplish changing the rings without pulling the engine the major steps are:

1.) Remove front drive shaft
2.) Drain fluids
3.) Remove oil pan
4.) Remove cylinder head - you can leave the exhaust and intake manifolds on
5.) Remove pistons
6.) Hone cylinders
7.) Install new rings and reassemble

I've read where one person claimed doing all of this in 4 hours but if I can get it done in one day I'm happy. Generally you'll find the cylinder-to-piston clearance to be more excessive than allowable but I've re-ringed engines up to 0.020" in some areas with the result of having a good starting and running engine where it had little to no compression prior and was a non-runner. How many hours I'll be able to get out of it is another topic. I would recommend changing the oil in these engines every 50 hours vs. the 100 recommended to potentially extend usable life once it is running.

crpt2008 · Jul 19, 2019

I've done my small share of rings and top ends.
But honestly if "avoidable", I'll be the first in the queue. LOL

Anyhow, old age being the issue.
You might find "Engine restorer" of some usefulness.
I'm pretty sure you know it won't make a new engine, but might get you trough the season.
Best of luck.

Cheers

denchen · Jul 19, 2019

Years ago to start an engine that has been left for a while and was low on compression, was to put a drop of engine oil in each cylinder. When they do start, you`ll get plenty of smoke for a while, and it should start again without oil from there on unless the rings are really worn. But if she`s got a bit of compression, and getting fuel, she should start.

CausticUrbanCoast · Jul 19, 2019

denchen said:
Years ago to start an engine that has been left for a while and was low on compression, was to put a drop of engine oil in each cylinder. When they do start, you`ll get plenty of smoke for a while, and it should start again without oil from there on unless the rings are really worn. But if she`s got a bit of compression, and getting fuel, she should start.

Use that for gasoline and kerosene, not sure that makes a difference for diesels?

thepumpguysc · Jul 19, 2019

Yes it will make a diff. on a diesel.. but us have to use more than, a drop..
It actually has to cover the piston & run down around the rings..
I use 10 squirts from MY oil can when doing a "wet" compression test.. seems to work quite well.
In some cases the pistons are "cupped" & u have to put in enough oil to run down to the rings..
Theres nothing wrong w/ adding an electric supply pump to a "gravity fed" system..
AS LONG AS it doesn't exceed 10 psi.. anymore than THAT & u stand the chance of blowing out the front seal in some cases
OR exceeding the pumping plungers mating surfaces & washing down the inside of the pump, which means fuel in the oil..