Oil & Fuel Fuel issue solved..??

[Diesel-ME]

I had a somewhat perplexing issue today. Started the tractor, warmed it up then began to move some pallets of wood. The tractor lost power and died a few times. Seemed like a fuel issue. It had been 42 hours since I last changed the fuel filter, etc. So I pulled the filter/drained the bowl. It's one of those dang plastic bowls so it always looks kind of cloudy. In any case I did not see any water. So I put the filter back on, opened the petcock and commenced to bleed to system. Oddly I was not getting fuel out of injector 1 and 2. It took a LOT of cranking before fuel came out - I was almost starting to wonder about the pump.

In any case I was finally able to feel like I had all the air out. I was still wondering about the fuel. It was only down 5 gallons, but I grabbed a can and as I always do added some Power Service - topped off the fuel and all has been well since. Only later when I was cleaning up my tools and the can that I drained the bowl into did I notice some ice in the can. Apparently there was some water that I did not initially notice until it froze in my drain can!

I wonder if I should have added some Diesel 911 instead?

In any case I was then able to finish my chores w/o further incident. Hopefully it's OK.

~Paul

 

[Soundguy]

Probably better to keep the water drained out in the 1st place. keep checking it.

soundguy

 

[flyingj]

If you are using #2 diesel, be aware that it's parrafin will crystalize in your filter and block it at low temperatures. I have had this happen at +15 degrees F. If it happens, you can take off the fuel filter and (before it warms up) see the crystals. I finally had to drain my tank and put winter (#1 diesel) in.

 

[Soundguy]

Now there would be a good case for fuel addatives!

soundguy

 

[TomOfTarsus]

While we're on the subject, I've heard that #1 home heating oil is the same as deisel fuel (#1), other than red dye. Is this true?

/newbie! delivery tomorrow....

 

[shvl73]

While we're on the subject, I've heard that #1 home heating oil is the same as deisel fuel (#1), other than red dye. Is this true?

/newbie! delivery tomorrow....

Do a search on heating oil, it has been discussed many, many times. (and does not seem to end in agreement)

 

[LBrown59]

I've heard that #1 home heating oil is the same as deisel fuel (#1), other than red dye. Is this true?

We have one fuel here.

It's called
1*diesel
2*home heating oil
3*fuel oil

If it's used on the road it's referred to as on road.
If its used off road it's referred to as off road.

If it's taxed it's clear
If it not taxed it's red

In the winter it's a #1 blend
In the summer it's a #2 blend.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
== L B ==

 

[LBrown59]

Do a search on heating oil, it has been discussed many, many times. (and does not seem to end in agreement)

Just Cause I'm Right doesn't mean anybody has to agree with me .

 

[rambler]

There is typically #1 & #2 oil.

#2 is cheaper & has more power, but it will gell up below 10-15 degrees.

#1 costs more, but won't gell until minus 60 or below.

Furnace fuel oil does not need anti-wear additives.

Engine fuel diesel needs anti wear attitives.

But they are pretty much the same oil.

Red dye is added to any motor fuel oil that is not taxed. Any fuel that is taxed does not have red added to it. The color red _only_ indicates the tax issue, it does not have any actual relation to any other quality of the fuel whatsoever. The DOT tax people are _very_ strict on this, you only dye un-taxed fuels......

Nearly all fuel suppliers do not want to stock all 6 types of fuel (heating, motor taxed & untaxed of both #1 & #2), as the cost with or without the antiwear attitives is about the same. More trips to deliver, more tanks to store, more inventory - it is cheaper for most to use the same #1 & #2 as both fuel & heating oils.

So, _most_ places have #1 & #2 in dyed & undyed which supplies either furnace or engine use.

When it is cold, you can blend #1 fuel with your #2. The colder it is, the more #1 in the blend. 50-50 often works well here where the temps go to minus 15 from time to time. Or you can use the additives. Or you can do a combo of both blend & additives. Unless you are in really, really cold area, straight #1 is not needed, and would be bad for the engine in summer temps. Oh, and kerosene & jef fuel is similar, but different too, #1 oil. You can add either of those to blend your #2 fuel so it doesn't gell.

Note that outdoor storage of heating fuel also runs into the gelling problem, and I one needs to either blend or do the attitive in these cold snaps for the furnace, as well.

Furnaces, tractors, barges, etc. use the dyed fuel which has no road tax on it - thus it is 20 cents or so cheaper. Licenced vehicles need to have the undyed fuel.

Of late we have gone to low sulfur, and now ultralow sulfur diesel. Again, most heating fuels have followed suit because it is easier to make, transport, & store all the same stuff, instead of 23 different types...... but, it is complicated.

Also there are more grades of heating oil (lower quality), but that gets into industrial use & rarely involves us consumers........

--->Paul

 

[LBrown59]

1*#1 costs more, but won't gell until minus 60 or below.
#2 is cheaper & has more power, but it will gell up below 10-15 degrees.

2*Furnace fuel oil does not need anti-wear additives.
Engine fuel diesel needs anti wear additives.
But they are pretty much the same oil
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

1*1 and 2 aren't 2 different grades of fuel.
l one is a winter blend the other is the summer blend .
They both cost the same.

2*Both have the same additives so they are both exactly alike.
That's how it works here but other areas may vary.