Rotary Cutter Full Floating Bush Hog? Or Flail mower?

[Phineas7]

I do clearing on very gullied and terraced terrain. Why don't they make the various "rough cut" system to float with the terrain? Or do they and I just don't know about it?
Having to constantly look back and adjust the 3pt gives me a nech ache!
Why can't they build a cutter with wheels in the font and let it follow the terrain?
I am planning on relocating the lower pins to move the cutter closer to the rear wheel. This will help a little.
What I really need is a 5ft flail that doesn't get jammed in the ground when the front end goes up something and doesn't twist with the tractor but follows the ground at the place it's actually cutting?
Have I just missed it? Does it exist?

 

[greg_g]

Either your RC doeesn't have a floating toplink bracket, or you're not using it correctly. When adjusted properly, that's the part that permits a RC to "float"

//greg//

 

[Phineas7]

Yes, there's a "link" at the top that allows the trailing end to pivot, but it doesnt keep the front end of the RC from digging into the ground. The draft arm don't have any hydraulic force downward, but they don't easily float above their current setting.

 

[greg_g]

Yes, there's a "link" at the top that allows the trailing end to pivot, but it doesnt keep the front end of the RC from digging into the ground. The draft arm don't have any hydraulic force downward, but they don't easily float above their current setting.

Actually, the "pivot" is on the lift pins - not the tail wheel. Or it should be - if you have it set up right. The correct method just prior to mowing is to lengthen the toplink to the point where the flexible toplink can "flex" through about a 45 degree arc. Then - just prior to transport - lower the hydraulics all the way, then tighten the toplink to the shortest length possible. Lift RC with hydraulics, drive away. In short, there's one toplink setting for transporting the RC - another for actually mowing. When set up properly, there's no need to "constantly look back".

As far as mowing height, you set that with the tail wheel. More specifically, mowing height plus ~1 inch. Then adjust the tractors vertical links so that the front of the RC is about 1" lower than the rear. This angle permits better dispersion of the clippings, and exerts less wear and tear on the RC. Should you not have this much adjustment in the vertical links, find the lift lever position that will achieve this. If the RC is still gouging the ground, I respectfully suggest that you're setting the mowing height too low.

//greg//

 

[have_blue]

A 3 point bush hog does float and follow the terrain, but has limited range. If your land has very steep ridges and gullies, it won't work so great.

If your land's contours are not too terribly rough, the solution may be a "pull behind" bush hog, which has wheels front and rear, and does not rely on the 3ph to set the cutting height.

 

[greg_g]

the solution may be a "pull behind" bush hog, which has wheels front and rear, and does not rely on the 3ph to set the cutting height.

I was too late to edit the following into my previous post. But the addition relates directly to your suggestion. Part of the problem is the OP is quite almost certainly running his RC too low for the terrain - otherwise the sides would not dig in. If he intends to cut the same height with a pull-type RC, he's gonna have an even worse problem. The blades and stump jumper will scalp (or plow) every time the thing high centers.

//greg//

 

[PBinWA]

A flail mower does work much better with hilly terrain. I added some Caroni Flail mower "ski's" to my Befco Flail and they work really well. The only time they gouge the turf is during hard turns.

Even with a full floating top link on my RC I was getting gouging and scalping. Although not as bad as without.

 

[Phineas7]

I have a hydraulic top link which helps the adjustment process. When I'm on level ground I understand what Greg is talking about. My skids down gouge, even on areas with mild terrain changes.
Lets say I adjust the front of the RC 4" off the ground, then I run through a mild dip, a gully 4' wide and a foot deep. When the rear tires hit the dip the RC gets dug in the ground.
Or the opposite scenario: A hump between two gullies, 20ft wide and a 3ft rise in the center. The tail wheel will be in the air over the hump.
On my RC the pivot link is only about 6" long, maybe a longer version would give me more range.
It also may help if I move the bottom pins to move the mower closer to the tractor.
I'll research the pull-behind RC you guys mention and get some ideas to see if I could modify mine. Even 6" of front float would help all but the worse areas.

 

[PBinWA]

I completely removed the top link on my RC when I used to have it and just used chains from the top link connection on the tractor to the lower arm links on the cutter.

The chains keep the front skids from cutting into the ground in most cases and having no top link allowed the rear end of the cutter to float up as needed.

It did work quite well but I was also careful about where I mowed. Theoretically, you could have the cutter pivot back up towards the tractor in some strange accident scenario.