3-Point Hitch FX24D 3-Point Arms Don't Lift

[rbecker]

Hello Everyone I purchased a FX24D Tractor about 3 years ago, with the engine blown. It's been a slow road to getting it running again. But I have her running like a top. There's a loader on it that works fine, but the 3-point arms don't lift. I have a book on a similar model, still haven't been able to figure it out. I made sure the stop valve below the seat and between your legs is open. I haven't tore in to the hyd's yet because I'm sure it's just a lever or valve that's not in the proper position.
Also there is wing nut under the right side of the seat, that on a front to back slide, what is the purpose/ correct setting for this? It appears to control the hyd. pressure. The more I slide it front, it labors the engine and the joystick leaks as though the pressure is increasing( I understand it probably need a o-ring).
I see there are some wires going to some of hyd. components, could this be part of the problem? I know my electrical system isn't perfect.
I also see a lever/arm in the back, left of the top link point. Does it position affect my problem? Thanx Rob

 

[blackd]

Hi Rob, glad to see you are making steady progress. How you been?
some thoughts:
Did you disconnect the hydraulic lines from the FEL valve to the 3Pt?
Does the tilt valve still work?
Did moving that short lever to each extreme make any difference?
Can you tell if there is hydraulic fluid flowing past the FEL controller?

BTW, I found an FX18 manual. If you want it send me an email to blackdat-signcomcastdotnet with your mailing address, and I'll send it to you.

Don

 

[Johndeere3720]

I had the seal go out on the lift cylinder on my 169D. My tractor still lifted the hitch but maxed out around 200 lbs. Took the back end apart and a new O-ring ($4 later) solved my problem. Start ti finish including running to town to get the O-Ring was under 1 day. If your engine strains when you pull the handle forward then my guess is your seal is shot.

 

[blackd]

Rob, another thought is that the stop valve may be locked closed. Some dirt or a broken piece may be causing it not to open.

 

[YanmarFever]

Have you changed the hyd fluid and filter lately?
Is the loader jittery or slow ?

 

[nevis]

Moving the wing nut under the seat forward diverts the hydraulic oil to the auxiliary pipes which on my tractor are underneath the Right hand foot plate and puts the output and input in series with the 3 point hitch ie oil must be able to continuously flow out of one connection and back into the other.
I assume the loader is plumbed into these.
The only reason for the engine to begin to labour when you move the wing nut is that piping or valve is blocked some where and you are effectively dead heading the pump.

 

[rbecker]

You guy's gave me some great idea's to check out. Most of the fluid is new, because of losing alot when the tractor was apart. I'm going to replace the filter even though it looks rather new,sometimes it's the simple things. I'll keep you posted with my progress. Thanx Rob

 

[blackd]

Rob, I suspect you will find it is not the filters. If the FEL is working normally, then the flow is probably OK. Since they are plumbed in series, I think that the problem lies with the 3 Pt settings. I think you may very well be correct that it is a lever/adjuster in the wrong position.

As far as the wing nut adjuster on the driver area, IIRC it is a high/low limiter for 3 pt movement. That leaves lock/flow valve under the seat as a potential culprit. If that was broken, then adjusting it will have no effect. If it is broken in the lock position then the 3 pt will not work.

Also, IIRC, there is small push button on the UFO hydraulic block, where the smaller lines for the UFO cylinder and valve are connected, it may close flow to the 3 pt in one position. IIRC it is hard to reach, but it is accessible.

This is all from an aging memory, so I'm not sure of how accurate these memories may be.

 

[blackd]

Any progress?

 

[rbecker]

I finally got some time to work on the Yanmar again, with some help from a buddy thats worked on tractors all his life and is more familiar with hydraulic systems than my self. We removed the housing that contains all of the 3 pt. components, disassembled and cleaned everything. We didn't find anything broken or any seals blown out. The only thing we did find is a small piece of dirt in a orifice in the diverter valve. I suspect the dirt got in the system, while being disconnected when the engine was out. Which could of been removed and cleaned with out removing the housing.
We were certain that the problem we in the diverter valve, when we installed the housing. Installed new seals on everything and it works great.
I recommend anyone with problems like mine, to remove any bolt on valves first and clean and check out before removing the housing. There isn't much to go wrong in there.
It didn't cost much, just a couple burger and beers:licking:, but was a good learning experience for me.
Thanx To everyone who gave in put during my adventure Rob