garage build - 22x44 --

[Unregistered2013]

Well, having been in my house almost two years, I needed a garage -- :|

The deed insisted on one a year after the build, so off we went.

Here's a "artist's rendition" of it -- :| It's overall good, though the pergola and bricking gingerbread will definitely at a later date --

For thefoundation, we looked at the haunch footing (less money), but the architect thought the truss load would be too much, so we instead went with the trench footing.

Okay, first the dig --

Well, not much of a dig there -- This one's better --

You can see the footer forms are already being laid in that pic.

Next, a nice, final footer --

Then came in the form guys -- a bit blustery for late October --

Then, the forms are up and the concrete's in. The inspectors raved on the rebard and overall quality -- woo-hoo!

Here's where we are now, awating the walls to cure some before backfilling on both sides. She's tall -- !!

 

[ultrarunner]

Looks like you're doing it right!

I have a 22 x 30 with 5 cars in it and would give anything for more length like your 44'

 

[LBrown59]

Looks like you're doing it right!

I have a 22 x 30 with 5 cars in it and would give anything for more length like your 44'

My 22 foot deep building is long enought to put his and yours both in.

 

[polo1665]

I like the artist's rendition, look's like its going to be very attractive building. Look's like the builders are doing a nice job so far.

Out of curiosity, what's under all the cloth bags that line the property?

Mark

 

[Unregistered2013]

morning all - thank you for your kind words -- !!

mark, those are burlap homes for my green giant arborvitae, which i planted this past april -- 120 of them -- !!

the "instructions" say they're "deer resistant", but that simply isn't the cast -- the burlap ends that problem -- plus, when they're young, the root ball and then the tree freezes easily, casuing death -- ask me -- i know -- 120 died last year -- luckily, the grower replaced them for free!

eric

 

[ray66v]

I am concerned about the amount of fill your going to need for the floor, and specifically, properly compacting it. It is a monumental task to do that much right, (2-3" layers of premium fill wet down and compacted).

We usually put some footings in in the center, and then a few piers, out of block. Then the floor can rest on them if, (sorry when), the fill settles.

 

[Unregistered2013]

I am concerned about the amount of fill your going to need for the floor, and specifically, properly compacting it. It is a monumental task to do that much right, (2-3" layers of premium fill wet down and compacted).

We usually put some footings in in the center, and then a few piers, out of block. Then the floor can rest on them if, (sorry when), the fill settles.

this is very well taken -- i just left the GC a message, and will be on the concrete guy heavily in the next few days --

-- THANKS!

 

[rimshot]

I am concerned about the amount of fill your going to need for the floor, and specifically, properly compacting it. It is a monumental task to do that much right, (2-3" layers of premium fill wet down and compacted).

We usually put some footings in in the center, and then a few piers, out of block. Then the floor can rest on them if, (sorry when), the fill settles.

=============================================

This is a good suggestion and the most settling occurs where the fill is the deepest. The most settling would therefore occur around perimeter right next to outside wall.You should be careful using a power compacter to prevent any damage to fresh poured walls or block recently laid there. Poured walls are pretty slick but I'm an old (retired) blocklayer. In my area, you need 42" from grade to bottom of footing to protect against frost. We would pour a 10" thick X 16" wide concrete footing with rebar horizontal in footing and vertical as pictured on 48"centers. The bar was placed vertically to extend through core in block and then we would grout the core with pea gravel concrete and include a strap or bolt to secure a wolmanized plate. Outside fill was placed to top of 4th course which with 10" footing gave us the 42" total to meet code..

The block walls would consist of four courses of 8" block with a fifth course consisting of 6" block. This 6" block was stepped back so all five courses were flush on outside. Now here is the best part, the floor was poured to lock in and bear at the step back on top of 4th course of 8"block and backed by the 6" block. This left 4" of block above floor level (or more if you laid up another course of 6" block) to keep the sill board and bottom wall plate elevated off the concrete floor. It also served to keep the wall bearing on solid footing not along the edge of all that fill.

Your foundation looks very good and everybody has a little different way of doing it.

rimshot

 

[ray66v]

The block walls would consist of four courses of 8" block with a fifth course consisting of 6" block.
rimshot

I prefer this "step" on the outside walls too. I am not sure what the contractor was planning to do here.

Some guys believe the fill is not going to settle, if its all stone. But, when your talking that much fill, there is a lot of room for settling.

Compacting the stone after putting it all down, is only good for a few inches, the rest will eventually settle.

The ground will also shrink when it dries out. Did he remove all the top soil?? I see a lot of roots.

My first home, was done in a similar fashion, the contractor guaranteed that the fill, (4'), was not going to settle. It did. When I was doing some remodeling 10 years later, there was about 2" of space between the fill, and the floor. The piers were holding the floor up.

When I build, I do a lot of "outside of the box" thinking. So, I hate to second guess someone else.

I have found usually intuition, coupled with real life experience, will keep you out of trouble. Mostly its not rocket science.

 

[EddieWalker]

This is new to me, so I'm wondering why not use sand? I have some experience with it installing pipes in the ground and was told it's the only material that will self compact. We would jet it with water to get it tight and pass inspection before covering it with dirt. Once this was done, roads, parking lots and buildings could be built right over it. No special tools, just a two inch water line and a plastic pipe at the end to get it into the sand. Pump the water into the sand until it collapses onto itself and it was solid.

Eddie