Garage floor options

   / Garage floor options #1  

Will

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2000
Messages
251
Location
Athens, Georgia
Tractor
B2410HSD
I was wondering if any of you with cement floors have tried painting the floors? I've been reading about various epoxy paints that won't peel under hot car tires, are easy to clean, and in general, hold up well under abuse. I've seen nice things written about UCoatIt, but I'd rather hear if any of you know how it holds up.

I saw a some pictures that look so good, it is hard to imagine it could hold up to steel dolly wheels carrying a 400lb tiller.
 
   / Garage floor options #2  
The really good and expensive paint will work. Most of the cheap stuff that I've tried doesn't work very well. Just like a house you will have to repaint it over time but it does hold up very well.
 
   / Garage floor options #3  
I will say one thing, if you use a true epoxy paint you'll need to set up some kind of forced air ventilation, the fumes from that stuff are wicked!

"They" make floor paints in alkyd (oil) and latex formulations. I recently obtained a Morgan (might not be known outside of Tx) building, 24x14, that is designed to be a garage. The previous owner had stored a '58 Buick Roadmaster in it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

He had never painted the floor, and the Buick wasn't exactly oil tight. I cleaned the oil as best I could (this is a plywood floor BTW) and put some kitty litter on it to soak the rest.

I put down a Kilz coat and then 2 coats of latex floor paint, with non-slip "sand" in the second coat.

The floor seems tough to me. Or course, it's only been on there a few weeks - but I get the initial impression it's gonna hold up. I hope so, I'll be parking a tractor in there soon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Garage floor options #4  
Will,

I used Durall 400 epoxy for my barn floor and it worked very well. Be sure to do it at the proper temperature. I did the application myself - no problems. I bought it all through the mail. Do Google search on Durall Epoxy.

I really like the epoxy over paint. I just had a small diesel spill (haven't we all) and it cleaned up with no problem.

Bill
 
   / Garage floor options
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I finally finished my garage floor project. It was a bunch of work, but it looks good, and I hope it will hold up.
 

Attachments

  • 279036-floor.jpg
    279036-floor.jpg
    80.8 KB · Views: 267
   / Garage floor options #6  
Looks great! Which product did you decide on? They are pouring my garage floor today. How long will I have to wait before applying a product similar to what you used?

Your shelving looks good too.
 
   / Garage floor options
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I bought everything I needed from UCoatIt. You have to wait 30 days for your concrete to cure. Starting with a nice clean slab would have saved me a lot of time. The best thing about their epoxy paint is that it is water based. You actually put it on a slightly damp floor, and the first layer is absorbed. The next layer goes on top, and the stuff is tough. If you stop there, you'll have a very tough, easy to clean surface. Oil drips just wipe right up. If you want something shinier, you can put on the urethane layer like I did. The stuff is pretty expensive, figure about 50 cents a foot for epoxy paint, and another 50 cents if you want the urethane layer. I wish I had done it 15 years ago when my garage floor was new.

If you decide to do it, let me know, and I can post more specific hints.

Will
 
   / Garage floor options #8  
<font color="red"> </font> If you decide to do it, let me know, and I can post more specific hints. <font color="red"> </font>

<font color="black"> </font> I have looked at a few products. Looks like you picked out a good one. I am interested in the hints, My garage floor is 24X26. It is used mainly as just a garage for our vehicles. The floor is 14 yrs. old. Not badly stained. <font color="red"> </font> <font color="red"> </font>
 
   / Garage floor options
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Here's some more specific information about the UCoatIt epoxy paint, paint flecks, and urethane coating. I did a few interior basement closets too, and it added up to about 900 sq ft.

While the project is fresh in my mind here are some things to watch out for.

1) You will need a roller screen, the sort that hangs inside the 5 gallon bucket, otherwise you'll waste time spreading lots of drips.

2) This is not a particularly easy project. I've done dozens of home repair projects of all sorts, and this one is a little tricky. The epoxy dries quickly, and since you can't just run to the store and buy more paint, you end up worrying about coverage.

3) You definitely want a helper. One person paints near the trim, the other can use the roller. The quantity of paint they recommend is sufficient for the job, and it is easy to get advice when you need it by calling them.

4) The first coat, i.e. the bond coat is put on a damp floor, but it is tricky to get the floor uniformly damp without creating puddles. You'll need a squeegy to get rid of puddles you accidentally create. If you end up putting it on too thin, don't worry, just put another coat on to that the first coat ends up looking more or less uniform.

5) The second coat is much more like conventional painting except for the tossing on paint chips.

6) The urethane coat is the easiest to spread, it stays wet a bit longer, so it isn't hard to blend into previously covered areas (unlike colored coats). The fumes from this layer are really nasty. I hope I will be able to relearn my multiplication tables.

7) To add insult to injury, I didn't realize that nothing in my house dissolves the wet urethane. I tried soap, water, paint thinner, finger nail polish remover, and some sort of citrus cleaning solution. Ultimately the stuff dries, and at least for the time being, my hands are impervious to a wide range of chemical stains, and should even hold up to automobile traffic.

This is the sort of project that would be easier to do the second time. Not counting removing stuff from the garage, the whole project took me and a helper about 25 hours. This was for 900 sq. ft. and we were extremely careful about preparing the floor. We got the oil stains out with many washings with Simple Green, we pressure washed it, and of course, acid washed it. Muriatic acid is impressive stuff. Dilute it 5 to 1, and it instantly dissolves a thin layer of concrete on contact. I'm glad that I can't report what it does to skin or lungs.

All in all, I'm really impressed with UCoatIt. They provide whatever support you need, and they are easy to contact by their toll-free number. I don't know about competing epoxy products, but this one seems excellent. It doesn't have much odor. It is water-based, and since it is absorbed into the damp concrete, it should do a superb job of bonding.
 
   / Garage floor options #10  
Will, how did it do on the small bumbs/imperfections in the concrete? Does it smooth out some of the ridges?

I'm thinking about doing this in out basement that has a very rough surface from a bad pour job. They tried grinding with limited success. Very clean except for some dirt.

thanks
gary
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2000 New Holland TN65 Tractor with Loader (A51573)
2000 New Holland...
(4) 55 Gallon Drums of Mixed Laundry Detergent and Fabric Softener (A51573)
(4) 55 Gallon...
Electric Concrete Mixer (A51573)
Electric Concrete...
Chevrolet C8500 Flat Bed with a Moffet Kit (A53472)
Chevrolet C8500...
2013 Nissan Pathfinder SUV (A51694)
2013 Nissan...
2020 Steiner 450 Slope Mower (A51573)
2020 Steiner 450...
 
Top