Garden tractor advice

reconmarine · Apr 17, 2004

Excuse the intrusion but I had been looking for a compact tractor but after seeing the costs, I had to scale down my goals. I am an admitted newbie to the whole lawn tractor world having cut my yard with a 21" walk behind Honda(the same one!)for 20 years. Now I am older, slower and have left the suburbs for a 30 ac farm in north GA with a 3 acre Bermuda lawn to handle as well as some light chores (hauling mulch, pushing gravel on my 1/2 mile driveway etc. I also have some hills and some "soft" areas in my river bottom areas so 4WD would be a plus.

I am bewildered by the various and obviously opinionated posts on these machines posts on the various makes and models out there. It reminded me of the old debate among us Marine grunts between the relative merits of the M-14 and M-16, either of which will kill very effectively!

Anyway, I am facing a fast greening 3 acre lawn and must get something soon. I have Husky, Toro, JD, NH, MF, Cub and Simplicity dealers nearby and Atlanta has everything if I am willing to take my life in my hands to go there. Can you help me make some sense of all this?

I am a retired Marine on fixed income so cost is a factor but on the otherhand I am a mechanic "fanatic" and appreciate good workmanship and durability and am willing to eat beans if needed to get the "right" machine.

Many many thanks.

Semper Fi

PS-- We should all keep in our hearts and prayers those fine young men and women in foreign places keeping the wolves away from our door so we are free to worry about such things as lawn tractors.

beenthere · Apr 17, 2004

Don't be puzzled by the different opinions. We each have made our choices and as normal, will probably argue that our choice was the best (we are not dumb nor do we want to admit to not making the best choice) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

So, to get an idea of quality (since as you say, they all will "kill" or may I say "cut grass") just go look at the used prices. You will find what quality is and what people are willing to pay for quality. I would be surprised if you don't find John Deere to be the best quality (IMO) and to have the highest used prices, because of their quality over the years. I just sold a 110 ('69) for $1200. That is more than it was new. I have had Deere 425, 445, and now an X485 in the all wheel steer version for cutting grass and lawn chores. There is an initial cost, and it approaches $10,000. For about the same $$, you can go to the Deere 2210 which probably would suit you better (but just a guess).
Bottom line suggestion, would be to search for a dealer who will be around and treat you well (but they don't do that for free) over the years. With that acreage, you won't want a puddle jumper (even a sling shot will "kill", but there are trade-offs to getting the job done) or a "junker" in a couple years.
I have opinions about other brands, but think you should concentrate on learning about those brands (beyond their glitzy advertising) and find out what the "foot soldier" is comfortable with. I say you need the best there is. Life is too short to fly second class, IMO.

I have deep respect and admiration for our troops in Iraq, and they have sacrificed a great deal in time, blood, and tears to give a whole population of people a 'fighting' chance to have a better life. I hope these people can take advantage of the opportunities to seek and find that better life. Their road will not be easy, but at least the king pin has been knocked down for them.

Bob_Skurka · Apr 17, 2004

JD is very good, but very expensive. The larger Cub Cadet garden tractors (3000 series) are very good, and a relative bargain compared to JD. Toro & NH are identical garden tractors with the exception of the paint and both are made by Toro. Husky is generally considered a lower grade that the above 4 brands. From personal experience I can recommend the Cub Cadet line.

If you have lots of shrubs/trees/landscaping, consider turning radius becuase the tighter the tractor turns, the faster it will mow around your landscaping.

If you are sticking with the Garden Tractors then very few of them are available with 4 wheel drive. Those that offer 4 wheel drive are priced about the same as the small diesel tractors and are far less capable than the small diesel tractors.

So you really need to decide what your budget is, and what size class of tractor you can live with. A larger, high quality garden tractor will do more work than many people believe, so mowing and towing mulch is very little to ask of a 20hp garden tractor.

Shaft drive is going to give you more available hp to the rear wheels than belt drive and it is pretty much maintainence free. Most of the better brands have shaft drive on their premium models.

PS Speaking of fine young men & women, one of my coworkers was just activated last week, she is an Army Sgt. and a medic in the IN Nat Guard. She ships out in about 10 days.

Charlie_in_TX · Apr 19, 2004

I don't know if this is the best choise for you, but may be an option you haven't considered.

You discribed yourself as a 'mechanic'. Have you considered a tractor and a mower? For a tractor you could get a Ford 8N in good condition for $2-$2.5k. Add a 6ft finish mower for $1k. A small step up in price and a large step up in capability would be a Ford NAA or 600 series. With them you can get live hydralics and PTO. HP goes up from 25ish to 32ish. The price should still be less than $3k. Both of these tractors are designed for a farmer to repair. Most people with a manual, available, can keep these things running like a top.

I have used a 8N to mow my 7 acres for 4 years now. Never any real problems with it. I replaced it this year with a Mihindra however the 8N was still doing what I bought it for.

For fine mowing get a old JD. The old 110s are dang near bullitproof, at least it is if you are using a .223. The old JD 140 H1 or H3s are supprisingly cappable. The later 200's are great machines. I found a 318 (considered by some to be the best garden tractor ever made) for under $2k in very good condition. A 322 or 332 are the same as the 318 with better motors (both Yanmar powered, one gas the other deisel). A modern 345, 355 or any of the 400's would be an outstanding choise.

You can find the riding mowers at http://www.machinefinder.com/, or ebay. You can look for the Ford tractor there or at http://www.equipmenttraderonline.com/.

I am thankful to the young men and women putting their lives on the line and their lives on hold to make this world a better place.

bontai_Joe · Apr 19, 2004

As a new guy to the wonderful world of tractors, there are lots to choose from. For the work you describe, the $799 Walmart special deal of the day won't last long, you didn't really mention a budget, but the good stuff starts at around $4000. Toro and NH are clones, MF and Simplicity are clones, Husqvarna and Sears are clones, Cub 2000 series and above are MTD's top line, and Deere is Deere.

My personal recomendations would be to look at the Deere GX series and "X" series, Simplicity Legacy and it's MF clone and the Cub 3000 and 5000 series tractors.

GerardC · Apr 19, 2004

I like MTD. They're a well built unit and believe me I work mine (16.5 HST). Plus, parts are readily available at a reasonable price.

And, at what some of them sell for, they're almost disposable. If someday I need to repair mine, I'll probably just go and buy a new one. Then again, at their price, I may do it just to get an updated model /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. To me MTD is dollars and "sense". /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Cecil · Apr 19, 2004

Charlie is giving good advice -- go after a decent gargen tractor now to keep those 3 acres of Bermuda in check (I'd look at the JD 300 or 400 series myself, but I'm sure the Cub and Wheel Horse line both have similar capabilities in their tractors). Like Charlie, I'd suggest looking for a used unit with a 48" to 60" deck.

Getting a garden tractor for the mowing and other light duties will open up the entire used "compact" tractor class. The Ford 8N bieing a classic example (but they didn't call them compact tractors then), but if you are really looking for 4wd, you'll need something newer.

Cecil

Bob_Skurka · Apr 19, 2004

I love to restore tractors and am a member of the Hart-Parr Oliver's Collectors Association, I would shy away from advising someone to who knows very little about tractors to buy a 1950's field tractor. I love old iron, but the reality is it is not as good as the new stuff, it is not nearly as safe, and it is harder to use. It is true it is easy to fix, and generally cheap to keep going as long as you are not concerned about historic accuracy. But it takes a half-acre to turn an old tractor and requires brute force to do it. Operating a FEL on antique iron can be done, but most don't have power steering and that doubles your efforts. I just would throw up a caution flag before I would recommend someone buy an old tractor as a primary tractor. I'm not saying it won't do the job, in fact that will do the tasks, but they won't be as safe and won't do it as easily.

Cecil · Apr 19, 2004

Bob, I've got to challenge you on at leats 3 points.

1. "it takes a half acre to turn" since you're on Oliver guy, did you ever drive a 77? Turn the wheel around to the left, stomp on the left brake? No CUT ot subCUT is going to turn like that. Half acre, my a$$.

2. Harder to use? please expalin how & why. Don't say "power steering", an old Oliver 99 will steer every bit as well as a JD 4020 when pulling a 5 bottom plow.

3. Less safe? How? the single most important safety feature is the person riding in the drivers seat.

Cecil

ducati996 · Apr 20, 2004

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Bob, I've got to challenge you on at leats 3 points.

1. "it takes a half acre to turn" since you're on Oliver guy, did you ever drive a 77? Turn the wheel around to the left, stomp on the left brake? No CUT ot subCUT is going to turn like that. Half acre, my a$$.

2. Harder to use? please expalin how & why. Don't say "power steering", an old Oliver 99 will steer every bit as well as a JD 4020 when pulling a 5 bottom plow.

3. Less safe? How? the single most important safety feature is the person riding in the drivers seat.

Cecil )</font>

I can tell you are a fan of older Iron but technology is technology, and its usually an improvement over old..
Why challenge Bob on this? it comparing two different things all together and each have their own place and time...
The orignal poster is asking for advice on new technology, and most people arent interested in tinkering all the time with old. Unless they are comfortable with doing so....
I see no basis for even comparing the old verses' new in this thread...

Duc