Garden Tractor For Hills That Won't Slip - Hydro or Gear?

[Jeeters]

Hello everyone,

I have been reading/searching the forum here hoping to learn more about a problem that I am currently experiencing. I recently purchase a HUSQVARNA YTH2448T Lawn Tractor from Sears for a good price due to it being last years model.

The tractor is a 24 HP V-Twin unit with a 48" deck and pedal drive Hydro transmission. After purchasing the tractor and mowing the lawn for the first time, I noticed that whenever I am on a slight grade (depending on my direction of travel), one of the rear wheels would start to spin, while the other never engaged. I thought this may be an issue with the transmission as I did not experience this with my last lawn tractor (older gear-drive Troy-Bilt).

I called Sears and they sent out a repairman who after some explanation offered some advice. He explained that these types of tractors (less expensive pedal engaged hydro units) were not really designed for the hills that we have in Pennsylvania. He said that he has had to replace/repair many transmissions due to the fact that they really cannot handle hills or pulling carts on hills (which I also have). He also said that the repairmen often bring this up to the sales people at Sears - but their suggestions typically fall on "deaf" ears due to the sales persons desire for good commissions.

I have about 3 acres that I mow, 2 of which are on an approximate 10 percent grade (constant slope). I was able to turn easily with my old gear drive mower, but turns now cause slippage - and "no go" unless I back up and reposition the tractor. I also notice the slippage when traveling sideways on a slope - which never happened with my old tractor. The hill is certainly not too steep for safe mowing (my neighbors wife "flys" up and down on her tractor without any problems - albeit gear driven).

I have a couple of questions that I hope some kind person will be able to offer some advice for - thank you tremendously in advance.

(1.) Understanding my budget of $2500 would I be better of purchasing a Gear Driven (manual) Tractor to handle the hill that I mow?

(2.) Are there hydro driven tractors in this price range that offer better transfer of power between the wheels to compensate for slippage?

From what I have read on this forum the transmission is one of the most costly parts of the tractor and typically the cheaper tractors have less capable transmissions. Again, I thank you for your advice and certainly appreciate your help!

P.S. If I hit the lottery I can say with some certainty that a shiny new Kubota or higher end John Deere would look great in my shed!

 

[PBinWA]

I have a Craftsman GT5000 (25hp) that I added the rear wheel weights too and then added "Ag" style tires, and finally filled the front wheels with windshield washer fluid.

It is now pretty good on the hills. It climbs them and rides them nicely.

The only downside is that the added weight slows it down but that gave me a good excuse to buy a new ZTR this year!

You could get the Ag Style tires but you may also want to see if you can get some ATV tires since they will give you better traction.

I would try adding the weight first and see if that helps as the tires can be a little expensive.

PB

 

[Jeeters]

Hi PB!

Thanks so much for the advice! I am really thinking about this long and hard.

My neighbor has the same tractor that you have an absolutely loves it (she has the manual version vs. the hydro unit). I wish I could find one myself! I guess they bought a John Deere hydro unity and it's tranny died after a couple of months. They switched back to manual and have been going ever since.

Is your GT5000 Manual or Hydro?

 

[locknut]

The repairman had some good advice.You're using the wrong tool for the job.If I had 2500 to spend,I would rather buy a good quality used tractor such as a Simplicity,Kubota, or John Deere with 300-400 hours on it than some of these cheap throw-away models.The traction/slope problem can be solved easily by swapping out turf tires for AG's/ATV tires and filling with WW fluid.Be patient and look around for a sturdier tractor.You'll be glad you did.

 

[art]

Hydro or gear the hill would still be a problem. Look at getting some weights on the rear. I wouldn't buy the ag tires or would I load the till a last resort but you might find a way to add another 100 lbs to the rear which would help a lot. I believe they use a weight bracket and suitcase style weights on that model.

 

[Jeeters]

Hi Art & Locknut!

Thanks so much for your advice - it is certainly appreciated. After reading Locknut's post I got a wild hair up my "back-side" and decided to head off to a local tractor dealer. I only have about a week to return the HUSQVARNA before the 30 day return policy runs out, so I need to make a decision.

Well, as luck would have it, the dealer had some real nice Cub Cadets (and Husqvarnas like mine) that appeared to be heavier duty from the start. Then...my eyes turned outside to the parking lot where they had some tractors lined up that I thought were repair jobs. Low and behold there was a "Toro" WheelHorse 312-8 sitting there that looked to be in very good condition. I asked about it and they said that it was actually for sale. I went outside to look at it and they had a price tag on it for $750.00 (and later learned they would take $700.00 cash).

I rushed back inside to ask them about it and I guess it was a trade in from an elderly gentleman that was pressured by his family to buy something new. The dealer told me that they kept telling the gentleman that he should NOT trade in his tractor as it was a "beast" that could not be matched by what they sold new.

As you can imagine, my mind started ticking and I immediately asked them to hold it until Monday so I could ask the "boss" permission - she said in no short order...YES!

The WheelHorse is in great shape, single owner with a little dirt here and there, no dents and really no rust. The engine appears to be in great shape - almost imaculate (the block looks new). The tractor has the Kohler Magnum 12 engine with an 8 speed (4 hi + 4 low) gear box. I believe the mowing deck is either a 38" or 42" side discharge, and the rear-end looks beefier than that of a small pickup truck! The only concern I have is that it has roughly 837 hours on it - but I have had commercial walk-behind mowers (including a Gravely) with much more without issue. The dealer certainly got a chuckle when I was test driving the tractor and almost pulled a wheelie in all gears!

With my lack of experience - does it make sense to purchase the WheelHorse vs. a "newer" tractor? I figure - "IF" I had to put some money into this machine at a later date (it has already been fully serviced), I would still have much more of a tractor than the Husqvarna from Sears or a pricier Cub Cadet - for less money as well.

Thank you everyone for all your suggestions - hope someday I can return the favor!

 

[locknut]

If I were you I would have executed the return option on the spot,got some change back and took that old tractor home.That should be a 2000hr tractor or better.Put some AG/ATV tires on it,fill em,and you'll be a happy camper!

 

[Jeeters]

Locknut - you are exactly right! I have done some research to learn more about the Wheelhorse and that is definitely the way I am going to go. One of my concerns was having the ability to pull a cart full of topsoil and mulch (I have a ton of landscaping to do!). I wasn't feeling confident about the Husqvarna if I had to pull a cart up the hill. The Husqvarna is a nice machine for flat areas (easy enough for my wife to drive), however, I plan on putting this tractor through it's paces. Thanks again for the advice!