GC2300 running, ready for mods

loulblades · May 27, 2004

I don't know if I should start another thread, but I guess I am. because I want to get feedback on any ideas people might have for mods.

The dealer came out and replaced the washer/o-ring on the front loader control. Said he had to order a different one but this should work for now. I played in the dirt for awhile last night and it seemed to work ok. I will try the mower this weekend.

Now for some changes:

The first thing I am going to do is extend the exhaust to point it down. The hot gases come right back in my face especially when the loader bucket is down where I think it should be while hauling dirt.

Adding work lights to the back since I usually spread grass seed and fertilizer late in the evening.

Thinking about adding self leveling headlights onto the loader arms. Not that I would generally do loader work at night but like last night when I went to move the tractor, putting the bucket low enough to see doesn't appear safe when driving in a bumpy area.

The tractor was delivered with bar tires even though I ordered the turf tires. The dealer didn't have the turf tires in stock and said he would swap them when they come in. He liquid filled the front tires to offset for the rear mower. I think I will have him liquid fill the rear tires too. These bar tires are really tearing up my yard in the soft spots but I am concerned about losing traction for loader work Although I will be doing mostly mowing. Any input on the bar versus turf would be appreciated.

One thing I have noticed. is the parking brake lever looks kind of "low budget". Hope it holds up.

Also when I did my tractor research, I noticed some of the tractors had cruise control and couldn't understand why. Now that I have used a hydro drive I know.

Any inputs on recommended mods would be most appreciated.

This little tractor seems pretty nice and I think it will work out pretty well.

Sorry this got kinda long but I'm havin a blast. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

loulblades · Jun 16, 2004

Well I gave up the rear mower for a belly mower. It was kinda difficult to manuever around the trees and my wife and daughters said they wouldn't mow with that big thing hanging back there. My dealer charged me $200 to make the swap and I used it to cut grass last night. What a mowin machine.

I also added work lights on the back that get their power from the taillights with a waterproof switch to control them.

Currently I am preparing to add a second set of headlights by mounting them low on the front loader posts. Seems I end up moving dirt around after dark for some reason. I get started and ...well you know.

I am also looking for a rear scraper or box blade. It's kinda hard to smooth out top soil with the bucket. Some weights to put on the 3 point when I'm moving dirt is also desired.

After using this thing more, I will post my likes and dislikes (yes, I do have some dislikes).

Havin a blast with this thing. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

ezvalk · Jun 16, 2004

I think aux lights are going to be one of my first mods. I'll run mine right off the battery thru a relay to a switch though. I agree the exhaust needs redirected. It's turning my FEL black!! What solution did you did come up with? A set of hooks on the FEL needs to be added.....

loulblades · Jun 17, 2004

The switch for the rear work lights is near the lights, mounted on a small bracket I made bolted to the taillight bracket, so I didn't bother with a relay. For the secondary headlights I will probably use a relay.

I haven't finished the exhaust, and yes it is turning my FEL black. Wouldn't think the hydraulic fluid would need to get any hotter. I went to the local PEP Boys looking for some exhaust pipe for my application. I found that a 1-3/8" car exhaust fits nicely. In fact it is tight enough that a clamp may not be necessary. I just haven't found the correct elbow yet. Might need to have one made.

The hooks on the bucket would be nice. When I brought the belly mower home the other night, I had to throw the straps around the bucket to unload it from the trailer. So now that you mention it, I think I'll find a place to bolt some on.

Bob_Skurka · Jun 17, 2004

RE: AUXILARY LIGHTS:

I don't know about the GC, but many tractors come with a pigtail for a rear aux light. It is often found under the seat or adjacent to one of the ROPS bases. Typically the wire is already fused, you simply add a bracket and a light that the dealer probably has in stock. The lights typcially have a waterproof switch built into the housing so the install is as simple as bolting it on, hooking one wire from the light to the factory wire, and hooking the other wire up to a ground point on the frame, the mounting braket or the ROPS base. Literally a 5 minute job.

I know of some that go to Wally World and get lights for 1/2 the price the dealer charges, but then they have to buy a switch too, and finding a waterproof switch is pretty tough unless you get a marine grade switch and those cost about $10 a pop, so I found with my tractors that it is easier to just get the factory light and pay $35 than to spend 30 minutes driving each way to Wally World to get the light for $15, add the switch and then spend 45 minutes wiring it with waterproof connectors, etc. But that is just me.

ezvalk · Jun 17, 2004

Thanks for the info on the exhaust and the lights. I believe I'm going to weld a 2" angle on top of the bucket to mount hooks to. It looks like it could use some beefing up anyhow. Another mod I'm drawing up is a counter weight for the 3pt. I'm thinking about a 24" piece of plastic pipe for a form and pouring cement into it with a 3 pt drawbar cast thru the middle. Just not sure yet how big around the pipe should be....

loulblades · Jun 18, 2004

I am also planning on adding weight to the 3 pt. When I take a full bite of topsoil or gravel, the back end has a tendency to want to come off the ground somewhat when I back away from the pile.

Using a box or pipe I could fill with concrete was what I was thinking about but I have yet to determine how much weight is needed. Maybe some of the more experienced people here can say.

Doing some quick calculations, I figured an 8 inch I.D. plastic pipe about 24 inches long filled with concrete is a little over a 100 lbs. (based on the concrete being 150 lbs/cubic ft) If you use 1/4" thick steel pipe instead you would get about 145. A 10" pipe would be about 165 with plastic or about 220 with the steel. Of course I am not considering the steel rod which will need to be reasonably hefty and I have not yet checked how much clearance is availble.

Having that size of pipe might work nice as a roller as long as you keep the ends well greased or put some type of bushings or bearings in the hitch.

Geesh once you get the basic platform, this implement stuff and add-ons could go on forever.