About 50 hours after I changed out the hydraulic fluid in my 2310 the hydraulic FEL control lever started to get a little stiff. Mostly in the down position and mostly after inactivity. It is getting worse and worse now. Today, I found it especially stiff. The tractor was not running and had not been started yet. But even when the tractor is warmed up and say your doing backhoeing then later switch over to use the FEL the down postion will be stiff. If you kind of roll the handle of the valve around hard it will free up just nice and then be that way as long as you continue to use the valve. After you stop for a little while starts getting stiff again. Anyone???GC2310 TLB NIMCO Hydraulic Valve Stiff
- Thread starter pionex_80
- Start date
- Views: 12501
About 50 hours after I changed out the hydraulic fluid in my 2310 the hydraulic FEL control lever started to get a little stiff. Mostly in the down position and mostly after inactivity. It is getting worse and worse now. Today, I found it especially stiff. The tractor was not running and had not been started yet. But even when the tractor is warmed up and say your doing backhoeing then later switch over to use the FEL the down postion will be stiff. If you kind of roll the handle of the valve around hard it will free up just nice and then be that way as long as you continue to use the valve. After you stop for a little while starts getting stiff again. Anyone???
kennyd
Advertiser
Welcome to TBN
Have yo lubricated the linkages that connect the joystick to the valve body? The little Heim joints get stiff when they get dirty/dry.
Have yo lubricated the linkages that connect the joystick to the valve body? The little Heim joints get stiff when they get dirty/dry.
I checked, if you meant the small ball and socket linckages, they were loose and free. It is the actual hydraulic control valve. I need to find someone that has a good parts breakdown of the valve and I will just rebuild it entirely. I am thinking it is gunked up inside the valve, but it is still working for now, just starts very stiff. Could be that the return spring is stuck or gunked up, and just need cleaning. But I am not really desiring to dissassemble it until I get a good parts breakdown and pre-order all the orings and springs that go inside the valve. Does anyone have a copy of the NIMCO Valve that I have? I will post the pictures of my valve.
Attachments
On that valve, the up/down for the FEL is tied in with the float control; several of us have had problems with that not holding in "float" over bumpy terrain.... you might wish to check out the thread --with pics-- by nh_husky_driver and others from 2/4/09, "Joystick float."
That spool can be removed & disassembled without having to take apart anything else-- it seems to be a good spot for crud to collect. There are some good photos in that post of what can happen inside that spool.
That spool can be removed & disassembled without having to take apart anything else-- it seems to be a good spot for crud to collect. There are some good photos in that post of what can happen inside that spool.
The idea is that the slightly-tapered end of the plunger in there will force a snap-ring open, allowing the plunger to drop past it into the float position. Very much like a snap button on a jacket, for example.
Once past that snap ring, it's supposed to be held there... but mine will easily pop out. When blowing snow, I just keep my right hand on the joystick with forward pressure to keep it in float.
If that area becomes dry, that could prevent the plunger from getting all the way to the bottom. I put some grease in there while it was apart (the red stuff).
Here are some pics that may help. The cover is removed by unscrewing those two long socket-head screws on the underside of the cover.
Once past that snap ring, it's supposed to be held there... but mine will easily pop out. When blowing snow, I just keep my right hand on the joystick with forward pressure to keep it in float.
If that area becomes dry, that could prevent the plunger from getting all the way to the bottom. I put some grease in there while it was apart (the red stuff).
Here are some pics that may help. The cover is removed by unscrewing those two long socket-head screws on the underside of the cover.
JeepCJ7's advice in that thread worked for me. Loosened the cap screws, worked the joystick, tightened it again. Works now.
I did have some hydraulic fluid seep out of the cap, so I am thinking I need to pull the packing and replace "O" ring next.
I did have some hydraulic fluid seep out of the cap, so I am thinking I need to pull the packing and replace "O" ring next.
JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,992
- Location
- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
Not sure the age of the loader valves under discussion but I know of one MF dealer who believes that original NIMCO seals in some loader valves absorb hydraulic fluid in tiny amounts over time and eventually become pesky and result in erratic loader valve operation. His approach is to replace the seals everywhere in the valve with seals of a differing material (I can barely recall, but I think the originals are white and replacements are not ?) In any event it is not very expensive to just have an experienced shop replace the seals and request that they use ones of different material and/or color than the originals. Sorry I did not do the work myself and can't recall the specifics of the colors or material of the seals. I do know the dealer has a continuing (friendly?) disagreement with NIMCO about this issue. Obviously it is important to use care [if you have it apart] to keep the interior passages clean and avoid debris and extraneous fibers or crud of any kind getting into the valve.