GC2410 Pivot Axle Seal Leaking-Shop Manual Sux.

[cdaigle430]

After 10 years of ownership I have my first failure, the brake side front axle pivot seal is leaking. I bought the shop manual but it doesn't explain how to replace the seal or how to remove and assemble that part of the axle. Im kind of disappointed in the repair manual and I think I mat have wasted 144 bucks on it.

Has anyone done this yet and do they have any tips?

 

[not2old]

I've had to do both sides on my 2010 GC2610. I also bought the manual which is near useless. After watching several u-tube videos, I found the repair to be fairly straight forward, the worst part being the $70.00 each for the seals. Didn't try the aftermarket very diligently as I was about to get busy with preparing the site for my new garage and needed to get going. The most difficult part was replacing the large snap ring at the bottom of the spindle. A good set of pliers is necessary to prevent frustration and a friend to help with a third hand will come in handy.

 

[MF RED in MT]

I am not sure which seal you are describing?

Is is (13) Oil Seal on page 08-2, or (1) Seal on page 09-28, or is it sometime else that i am missing?

KC

 

[cdaigle430]

I dont have the shop manual in font of me but its the upper and lower seal where the axle pivots to steer for the wheel hubs.

 

[cdaigle430]

I've had to do both sides on my 2010 GC2610. I also bought the manual which is near useless. After watching several u-tube videos, I found the repair to be fairly straight forward, the worst part being the $70.00 each for the seals. Didn't try the aftermarket very diligently as I was about to get busy with preparing the site for my new garage and needed to get going. The most difficult part was replacing the large snap ring at the bottom of the spindle. A good set of pliers is necessary to prevent frustration and a friend to help with a third hand will come in handy.

I do see some Kubota BX seal replacement videos-Im hoping its very similar to that because then I have enough confidence to tackle it myself. My biggest worry is removing the old seals-they show using a large flat head screw driver to pry it out-I hope to avoid that so I dont score the inside hub.

 

[Zewbie]

I just purchased new seals and plan on doing this in the near future. I agree the manual is pretty useless in comparison to what's available online. There are a couple how-tos I'm planning on using. The 10th post in this thread here has a link to a how-to.
The part # is 4265156M91. I just need to figure out what type of sealant I'm going to use around the gear housing for reassembly.

 

[not2old]

I just purchased new seals and plan on doing this in the near future. I agree the manual is pretty useless in comparison to what's available online. There are a couple how-tos I'm planning on using. The 10th post in this thread here has a link to a how-to.
The part # is 4265156M91. I just need to figure out what type of sealant I'm going to use around the gear housing for reassembly.

I used black automotive silicone and it seems to be working fine.

 

[cdaigle430]

Thanks everyone, my next step is ordering the parts.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Oh, that seems like a level 4 or 5 project for a DIY'er when I am use to level 1 and 2.

I see now with the MF part # of 4265156M91, it is listed in the MF Work Shop Service Manual as item (13) Oil Seal on page 08-2.

And also listed in the MF Parts Catalog as item # 42 Oil Seal on pages 180 and 181.

Good luck with the repairs,

KC

 

[Jaylegger]

Here's a link to a well explained tutorial with photos for the GC2310.

Massey Ferguson GC231 TLB Repair

This link and tutorial was provided by TBN member exohomestead posted in this thread:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/massey-ferguson-owning-operating/200549-gc2300-front-axle-seal-damaged.html

 

[cdaigle430]

Found both sides leaking now and its pretty bad so I have parked my tractor until the seals are replaced-have seals ordered. I am going to try and just remove the pivot when I replace the seals. This will probably take me 2 days LOL but its worth it learning how to do it myself. One thing is I never swapped the oil in the front axle-I was wondering if this is what caused it to fail but my dealer said this is not uncommon for these types of axles and the GC. I did get 10 years out if the seals....the other thing is why put hydraulic oil in this axle? Does it have a slip clutch or pump? Why not put the heavy axle fluid?

A big thanks to those that have posted and documented this repair...this has given me the confidence to attempt the repair myself.

 

[irvingj]

The hydraulic fluid vs. gear oil has been discussed on this forum... some like to change to GP90, but Ray66 had a good discussion of how GP90 and hydraulic fluid are actually quite similar. Don't know -- I've always just used the same fluid for both the axle and the transmission per the book, but then I don't do a lot of heavy in-the-woods stuff, either -- mostly snow-blowing and lawn mowing. I do change the axle fluid when I do the transmission.

As far as the seals, there've been a few people who've had them fail, but not too many; I now have well over 900 hrs on my 2310, and so far, so good. Pretty sure there was a thread on here with pics showing how one fellow did it.

So-- now that it's finally warmed up, are your black flies as thick as they are here?? Sheesh. (The "NH State Bird," ya know....)

 

[cdaigle430]

The hydraulic fluid vs. gear oil has been discussed on this forum... some like to change to GP90, but Ray66 had a good discussion of how GP90 and hydraulic fluid are actually quite similar. Don't know -- I've always just used the same fluid for both the axle and the transmission per the book, but then I don't do a lot of heavy in-the-woods stuff, either -- mostly snow-blowing and lawn mowing. I do change the axle fluid when I do the transmission.

As far as the seals, there've been a few people who've had them fail, but not too many; I now have well over 900 hrs on my 2310, and so far, so good. Pretty sure there was a thread on here with pics showing how one fellow did it.

So-- now that it's finally warmed up, are your black flies as thick as they are here?? Sheesh. (The "NH State Bird," ya know....)

Yes and now mosquitoes and ticks LOL

 

[cdaigle430]

Well what a PITA!!!! So far the part that everyone was telling me was the most difficult actually was the easiest-removing upper and lower seals. I used a seal puller while holding the hub (lower) in a vice and the upper I used a carbon gasket scraper to pry off.

To put them back on I used the old seal to hammer it back on using a 2 and 3\4 exhaust pipe adapter. The two biggest headaches was prying the hub open and removing the tire rod. I damaged the hub cover too much at the pry location so I am using JB weld to rebuild the surface for one side. I also damaged the rubber prying the tie rod off...also needed new cotter pins after.

The snap ring started out to be a nightmare-had to go and buy four different snap ring tools (the best one and the one I used was from Advanced Auto). Once I got the right tool it was easy.

I am waiting for JB weld to finish curing then its time to file level. Then I used KB Weld silicon as a gasket and its time to fill with a heavier lube.

Still have to change fuel, engine oil, hydraulic oil and air filters on top of filling all oils, greasing and cleaning oil strainer.

I didnt take pictures because I dont want you guys to make fun of me

Please, please dont leak after Im done.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Well what a PITA!!!! So far the part that everyone was telling me was the most difficult actually was the easiest-removing upper and lower seals. I used a seal puller while holding the hub (lower) in a vice and the upper I used a carbon gasket scraper to pry off.

To put them back on I used the old seal to hammer it back on using a 2 and 3\4 exhaust pipe adapter. The two biggest headaches was prying the hub open and removing the tire rod. I damaged the hub cover too much at the pry location so I am using JB weld to rebuild the surface for one side. I also damaged the rubber prying the tie rod off...also needed new cotter pins after.

The snap ring started out to be a nightmare-had to go and buy four different snap ring tools (the best one and the one I used was from Advanced Auto). Once I got the right tool it was easy.

I am waiting for JB weld to finish curing then its time to file level. Then I used KB Weld silicon as a gasket and its time to fill with a heavier lube.

Still have to change fuel, engine oil, hydraulic oil and air filters on top of filling all oils, greasing and cleaning oil strainer.

I didnt take pictures because I dont want you guys to make fun of me

Please, please dont leak after Im done.

After all that, I sure do wish "no leaks" for you.

KC

 

[Jaylegger]

Looks like one of those jobs I'll hire the Massey Mechanic to do a house call. Both mine are leaking and I know after heading to the hardware store multiple times for the right tool and breaking a few things in the process I'll come out ahead in the end.

 

[cdaigle430]

Its not too bad...got it done...and no leaks. I got to know how my front axle works, got to know the shop manual better and learned that the parts book is very handy.
For example the bolts that hold the plate to the steel hub are m10s which require torque between 32 to 57 ft pounds. I struggled with that one..the bolts are t7s also as they have the number 7 on them.
Just be careful with the prying...the hub is steal but the plate is aluminum...I did not know that.


I also replace the oil with a much heavier 85w 140 hypoide ep gear lube. Will see how that goes for a while.

 

[kenmbz]

Thanks for the update. Glad it all worked out, and we all learned something!