Gearbox - How to check Oil?

[MrPepper]

I have another newbie question... How do I check the oil in my Woods rotary cutter's gearbox?? It has a square cubical gearbox and there doesn't appear to be a dipstick. Looks like I have to un-do the top 4 bolts but wanted to check with someone before I did any more damage. (I'm already concerned that I bent the drive shaft) -- Thanks!

 

[k0ua]

I have another newbie question... How do I check the oil in my Woods rotary cutter's gearbox?? It has a square cubical gearbox and there doesn't appear to be a dipstick. Looks like I have to un-do the top 4 bolts but wanted to check with someone before I did any more damage. (I'm already concerned that I bent the drive shaft) -- Thanks!

I am not familiar with the woods, but a lot of rotary cutter gearboxes will have a small 1/8 inch pipe plug to remove as a level check. You carefully unscrew this plug, and if gearbox oil runs out, it is full. If if does not, then you need to add some until it does run out.. Often on top of the gear case there will be another fitting called a breather, you usually add gear oil into this fitting hole after unscrewing the breather. Do you not have a manual for the cutter? I am assuming you do not. Perhaps you could go here and find the manual

Woods Equipmet: Support


By the way how are you coming with that PTO shaft.?
James K0UA

 

[k0ua]

I checked the manual for a Woods Brush Bull and found this.

Gearbox Lubrication
1. For gearbox, use a high quality gear oil with a
viscosity index of 80W or 90W and an API service
rating of GL-4 or -5 in gearboxes.
2. Fill gearbox until oil runs out the side plug on
gearbox. Check gearbox daily for evidence of
leakage, and contact your dealer if leakage occurs.
Driveline Lubrication
1. Lubricate the driveline slip joint every eight
operating hours. Failure to maintain proper
lubrication could result in damage to U-joints,
gearbox, and driveline.
2. Lower cutter to ground, disconnect driveline from
tractor PTO shaft, and slide halves apart but do not
disconnect from each other.
3. Apply a bead of grease completely around male
half where it meets female half. Slide drive halves
over each other several times to distribute grease

 

[MrPepper]

Thank you very much! There is an extension with threads on the top -- I couldn't tell it was removable. makes sense now.

 

[k0ua]

Thank you very much! There is an extension with threads on the top -- I couldn't tell it was removable. makes sense now.

Remember the check plug will be down on the side of the gear case.. the top plug is likely the breather plug I mentioned. You fill from the top and it runs out on the side.. If it runs out the check plug on the side as you loosen it, you are done, put it back in. and start mowing. If it does not run out. leave it out and put some in the top plug until it does run out the side. then put in both plugs and go on.

James K0UA

 

[MrPepper]

James -- Follow up

I do have the Woods documentation but it has no details on filling / checking the gearbox. Just an assembly schematic -- it also describes what type of oil to use. Mine is a MD-160. I did change the blades this spring and the diagram was helpful in that regard. I have not removed the drive shaft yet. It was new this spring and rust isn't the issue. I am fearful I bent it although I can't imagine when it happened. I slid the shield back from both ends, but wasn't able to view the middle of the shaft. There is a place where the plastic guard is pinched, but the shaft underneath that area looks fine. It will probably be this weekend before I can take it all apart and try stretching it. I have copied your link which might spare the TBN gang a few of my questions. Thanks again!

 

[k0ua]

James -- Follow up

I do have the Woods documentation but it has no details on filling / checking the gearbox. Just an assembly schematic -- it also describes what type of oil to use. Mine is a MD-160. I did change the blades this spring and the diagram was helpful in that regard. I have not removed the drive shaft yet. It was new this spring and rust isn't the issue. I am fearful I bent it although I can't imagine when it happened. I slid the shield back from both ends, but wasn't able to view the middle of the shaft. There is a place where the plastic guard is pinched, but the shaft underneath that area looks fine. It will probably be this weekend before I can take it all apart and try stretching it. I have copied your link which might spare the TBN gang a few of my questions. Thanks again!

Yes I noticed the Brush Bull manual was a little sparse on how to check the oil in the gearbox, also.. It kinda assumed you would know how, I don't know how new equipment owners are supposed to learn these things. if it is not rusted together, it just about has to be twisted , perhaps because there was not enough overlap in the tubes to begin with. As an example I replace the PTO shaft on my King Kutter rotary cutter just recently as the original shaft was just too short when I traded tractors up to a larger tractor. the shaft was fine on my original smaller tractor, but I was afraid of twisting or splitting the tubes as they only had 5 inches of overlap.. a bad situation on this larger tractor. Good Luck and let us know what you find out.

James K0AU