Goodbye M246, hello 7308!

[Mosey]

Goodbye M246

 

[Mosey]

Hello 7308

 

[Mosey]

I finally worked out a deal with the dealer where I bought the M246 and got it swapped for a 7308. (see When is rear ballast needed with a FEL?) It cost me $900. So, in the end, I paid $600 more than I would have if I'd have gotten the 7308 in the first place. I’m not happy with the whole deal, but it could have been worse. At least I got rid of the M246 and now I have a FEL on my tractor that I can use. The difference is amazing. Now, when I drive the tractor with an empty bucket, it doesn't feel like I already have a load in it like it did with the M246. I can carry light loads around with no ballast, just like I thought I should be able to do.

Now, back to my original question about ballast. I'm attaching a scan of part of page 41 in the 7308 manual. I have R4 tires. I think they are saying that if I don't have the tires loaded then I need both the 300lbs of rear wheel weights AND 5 of the 57lbs weights (285lbs) on the 3pt for a total of 585lbs minimum for safe operation of the FEL. Is that right?

 

[OkeeDon]

I think it's A (368#) OR B (300#) OR C (285#). The 285# on the 3 pt hitch is probably the rough equivalent of the wheel-located weights because it's further back and has more leverage. On the other hand, I'm most comfortable when I have the box blade on the 3 pt. hitch, and I have loaded tires. You can't have too much ballast, in my opinion.

Glad you were able to make the switch without losing the entire investment in the M246 - I know you were not at all happy, so half-happy is an improvement...

 

[hockeyhead]

I almost bought a TC-30 with a bushhog 1846 loader, but after comparing the specs. I discovered that bush hog had a max. level bucket height of 78" the 7308's max level bucket height of 97", bush hogs rated lift capacity of 800#, 7308's 1095#, It cost me $850 to upgrade my deal to the 7308 loader,and after reading your posts I am glad I did.
I have R4 loaded /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif tires and moved alot of clay fill this summer
I started working without anything on the 3ph and when I would drop a full bucket to travel height quickly I would get a bounce in the rear wheels, adding my 5'boxblade solved that.

 

[JerryG]

Danny,
I'm glad that you finely got it worked out. I wish BH had been of more assistance. They really needs to update their recommendations for this size of tractor. Good Luck with the new loader.

 

[jinman]

Congratulations, Danny. That $600 for peace of mind and improved safety is a bargain. I'm sure you will be pleased with your 7308...even though you may be a little envious of the guys with the new 14LA. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Spencer]

Danny, I am glad you were able to make the switch to the 7308. How did you end up getting the tractor back and forth to the dealership?

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now, back to my original question about ballast. )</font>

On your question about ballast. I ended up getting two pairs of the New Holland wheel weights. I paid $240 total plus tax for two pairs and the New Holland fasteners to mount them. I could tell a big difference after I put the weights on. You wouldn't think that an extra 300 pounds would make a huge difference but in my case it did. In addition to the wheel weights I almost always keep my Bush Hog 72" rear blade on the back for extra ballast. There are lots of times when I would prefer not to have that 72" blade back there so I could maneuver easier. I looked into buying a weight box from my dealer but he only stocked a smaller version and I wanted the biggest one I could get. I plan on just welding one up myself one of these days. It looks like a fun project and I certainly could build one cheaper than I could buy one. Back to the wheel weights, I have seen here on TBN where some guys have come up with their own using regular barbell weights. As long as the weights are fastened securely and they don't stick out past the side of the tire I don't see anything wrong with going that route.

Spence

 

[DavidJ]

I'm glad you got things worked out. I know it was not the best situation but at least you can live with it and the more you use it the happier you'll be that you changed. I'm sorry that you had to fiind out the hard way, but I appreciate your sharing it with us. I, for one, was saved from making the same mistake because of your posting here. Thanks for that.

Now to the ballast question. <font color="blue"> I need both the 300lbs of rear wheel weights AND 5 of the 57lbs weights </font>
It does appear that thats what their saying. If you look at the note at the bottom of the page it says <font color="red">"Recommended ballasting choice is either A or a combination of B and C.</font>

With loaded tires you would add a total of 736 lbs. To equal that you would need both the Wheel Weights (300 lbs) and Hitch Weights (285 lbs) at 585 lbs. That equates to the combination being about 80% as heavy as the loaded tires and with the extended leverage of the 3ph I would say that it sounds about right.

I personally don't use the wheel weights. In the few instances where I need ballast I will either pick up the mower (700 lbs) or the Disc (600 lbs) and have thus far never had a problem.

 

[Mosey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( you may be a little envious of the guys with the new 14LA.)</font>

jinman - I checked with every dealer in the area and no one knows anything about the 14LA yet. One dealer said he thought it might come out next year. I've been hearing "it should be out next year" for a while now, so I decided not to wait on it. Plus, I've heard it won't fit the current Class II Boomers because the front axle is not strong enough and on the new TC33DA it is beefed up! Isn't it interesting that Bush Hog is willing to put their heavy loader on the current models? I'm planning to go the the Expo in Louisville in a week and will be heading straight for the New Holland display to find out more about the 14LA.