Got a Second GT2550...and need a bit of advice

[Lead-Cons]

Hi all

Picked up a "new" GT2550 to match my original. The original now has 400 Hours and the "new" one has 175 hours on it. The gentleman wanted $1500 but I got it for $900 (I think its a deal). It came with Ag Tires and picked up a set of 50lb/wheel weights too. The tractor needs a good tune up and cleaning. The 50" deck was obviously not maintained well (lots of packed in grass and mucho rust underneath) and therefore needs to be torn down, sandblasted and repainted. Not sure if the spindles have even been greased but they do spin.

None the less, the tractor is in good shape. I plan to use this one as my ground engagement tractor, and pick up a sleeve hitch, and I think I have the wife convinced a Johnny Bucket Jr is a good investment (I am NOT getting any younger after all!).

Now the question....I am finally sick and tired of the mickey mouse oil drain setup. I have read here about the Drainzit product. BUT, which model do I need for the GT2550?

Thanks in advance, and if ya'll don't mind, I will have a ton of other questions.

Thanks.

Tom

 

[rau2009sch]

Tell you what I did on my new-to-me 2009 GT-2550. Remove the goofy plug.
Go buy a 3/8" x 1/4" pipe-thread bushing, various small lengths of 1/4" pipe-thread nipples, say 1", 1 1/2", etc. up to 5" long.
Buy a 1/4" brass globe valve, straight, not angled, with female pipe-thread ends.
Buy a pipe-thread 1/4" threaded street elbow, and a 1/4" pipe thread cap.
Remove and save the guts/handle assembly out of the valve.
Thread together the bushing, about a 1" or 1 1/4" nipple, and the valve body, all together with Teflon tape.
Insntall this into the end of the 3/8" elbow still connected tot he engine drain.
Tighten it in real good. It will aim towards the rear, and extend just past the metal frame.
On the end of that, thread on the street elbow, and tightenit all up real well.
[You need a few tiny pipe wrenches to do this job.]
Then thread on about a 4" long 1/4" nipple, aiming vertically down, then the pipe thread cap.
To re-install the guts / handle assembly, remove the handle, use a socket, and put the guts back in the valve body.
Install handle, it fits up tight against the engine, and you have to grind off lots of the circular handle, but it can be done. I did it.
Tighten it all up, and you have a wonderful drain.
Changed oil a few weeks ago, my new drain works wonderfully. Gotta use small pair of pliers to loosen the drain valve handle, and remove the cap, but works perfectly.