KanakaRick
Silver Member
I have a woodmaxx 84" snowblower that keeps popping it's 5/16" grade 5 shear pins. Would I be asking for trouble if I moved up to a grade 8?
Got blasted in the Sierra with lots of snow....
- Thread starter KanakaRick
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ning
Elite Member
Grade 8: why not just weld it together? Just kidding. Still, not a good idea.
Are you sure those are grade 5 and not 2?
My auger eats shear bolts (grade 2, pretty sure) like they're candy but there's usually a good reason and I'm glad it's breaking a 50 cent bolt instead of my pto...
Can you afford to push it a bit slower?
msb1766
Platinum Member
Check the chain tension/tensioner to see if it set correctly.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Go to grade 8 bolts - yes, you would be looking right in the face of trouble. When stresses get too great the shear bolt is designed to break - not something else. And likely - something else that's a whole lot more expensive.
ning has a good thought. Be absolutely certain that what you have there is GRADE 5 and that they are actually shear bolts. Go slower - it won't cause the auger to choke and the pin to shear.
ning has a good thought. Be absolutely certain that what you have there is GRADE 5 and that they are actually shear bolts. Go slower - it won't cause the auger to choke and the pin to shear.
KWentling
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If they are Woodmax shear bolts they are grade 2 according to the manual. I also have an 84" and have never sheared one but it hasn't seen much use. It's been extremely dry here.
A grade 2 bolt will have no markings on the head other that possibly a manufacture's mark.
A grade 2 bolt will have no markings on the head other that possibly a manufacture's mark.
OP
KanakaRick
Silver Member
I was only going .0148mph
OP
KanakaRick
Silver Member
I didn't use actual shear bolts, but the bolts with the 3 marks on the cap in the grade 5 bin. Do I need to use an actual SHEAR bolt?
leonz
Super Member
Sierra Cement, Cascade Concrete, Bismark Boulders, Yup, you need to use the shear bolts as they
are specifically designed to break from shearing stress as standard bolts will only break if they are
pulled apart UNLESS they are rotating at a high speed and encounter an object that is going to hit
the nut or bolt etc.
The top flight of the roller chain should be tight and the lower flight should be a little loose UNLESS there
is an idler sprocket on a rubber tortion arm.
are specifically designed to break from shearing stress as standard bolts will only break if they are
pulled apart UNLESS they are rotating at a high speed and encounter an object that is going to hit
the nut or bolt etc.
The top flight of the roller chain should be tight and the lower flight should be a little loose UNLESS there
is an idler sprocket on a rubber tortion arm.
ericm979
Super Member
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if the bolts you are using are fully threaded or there's sideways force on threads (because the shank is too short), it will break with less force than the correct shank length shear bolt that's only threaded where the nut goes.
